This should be fun…

Cochise

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Project maximum grip in effect! Ordered nearly the entire catalogue from maximum Motorsports.
 

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J_lope82

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Is that engine support from harbor freight? I need one but I wasn’t sure if the harbor freight one would work.
 

RacerX

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Anyone got a part number/link to the harbor freight unit?
 

NXcoupe

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Project maximum grip in effect! Ordered nearly the entire catalogue from maximum Motorsports.
Good luck, should be a beast. Did you do one of their suspension kits? I installed one of their bigger kits on an 01 bullet and it handled like it was on rails. Kmember, coil overs, panhard bar, and torque arm. Lot of work but very much worth it.
 

cobrajeff96

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Should be grippy. I never driven or was a passenger in a Stang with a torque arm. MM's seems pretty stout and ready for any drag strip duty.
 
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Cochise

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Good luck, should be a beast. Did you do one of their suspension kits? I installed one of their bigger kits on an 01 bullet and it handled like it was on rails. Kmember, coil overs, panhard bar, and torque arm. Lot of work but very much worth it.
I did. I went with them with their maximum grip box and paid for their tech service. It was really beneficial and you get refunded once you order. We probably spent around 2 hours just figuring out little details and getting all the bits and prices right for my application.
 

NXcoupe

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I did. I went with them with their maximum grip box and paid for their tech service. It was really beneficial and you get refunded once you order. We probably spent around 2 hours just figuring out little details and getting all the bits and prices right for my application.
I will be following along. Put up lots of pics and your impressions of gow the parts look and fit. I'd be interested to know.
 
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Cochise

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I will be following along. Put up lots of pics and your impressions of gow the parts look and fit. I'd be interested to know.
Yessir! Will do. It’s definitely a winter project. The only thing I don’t expect to do myself is the sub frame connectors and TA cross member. I don’t know how to weld so I’ll have that done at a custom shop.

So far I’ve got the entire front end dismantled. It was pretty straight forward and the directions are generally very good.

I’m just waiting for an oil pan gasket to get in. Since the motor is literally hanging by two chains and the bottem end is completely exposed I’m replacing the oil pan gasket along with the motor and trans mount.

I went with energy suspension’s poly set up.
 

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Cochise

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Oh, and FWIW, when they say hit the spindle arm with a hammer to release the taper stud from the tie rod end and ball joint… they mean HIT IT WITH A HAMMER!!! Hahaha!
 

cobrajeff96

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Don't use brute force to get a tapered stud out of the spindle. Get yourself (or rent) a Pitman Arm Puller, or commonly known as a two-jaw puller. It's the safest way to remove it without damaging the tie rod and/or the threads on the stud.

And when they weld in the SFCs, disconnect both leads on the battery terminals, remove all seats and the carpet, and make sure the car has its suspension loaded on the ground as it would normally sit on the road. To do any of those things to the contrary is asking for disaster.
 
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Cochise

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Don't use brute force to get a tapered stud out of the spindle. Get yourself (or rent) a Pitman Arm Puller, or commonly known as a two-jaw puller. It's the safest way to remove it without damaging the tie rod and/or the threads on the stud.

And when they weld in the SFCs, disconnect both leads on the battery terminals, remove all seats and the carpet, and make sure the car has its suspension loaded on the ground as it would normally sit on the road. To do any of those things to the contrary is asking for disaster.
Yes. These are all good points.

for my application I wasn’t worried about the tie rods or ball joints though, as they are getting replaced.

I should have clarified that part.
 

Snorky

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Oh hell yeah I’ll probably buy it then. I only need it once.
I use the Harbor freight engine support as well. Works great
I have used the harbor freight version. I don't trust their jacks or jackstands but this works
I use their giant 3 ton jack stands for trucks and at the lowest setting its almost high enough to roll a transmission out from under it on a trans jack. Overkill. But it works and I feel pretty good about it.
 

NXcoupe

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Don't use brute force to get a tapered stud out of the spindle. Get yourself (or rent) a Pitman Arm Puller, or commonly known as a two-jaw puller. It's the safest way to remove it without damaging the tie rod and/or the threads on the stud.

And when they weld in the SFCs, disconnect both leads on the battery terminals, remove all seats and the carpet, and make sure the car has its suspension loaded on the ground as it would normally sit on the road. To do any of those things to the contrary is asking for disaster.
You don't strike the ball joint, you strike the spindle perpendicular to where the center of the tapered stud is located. The spring pressure and the shock of the hit pop the ball joint out. Tie rod ends are the same way. I think MM knows what they are doing.
 

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