THR Hardball'r intake
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one of my old neighborhood stangers has one on his car that Texas Hot Rods built...he likes it and says the quality was very good...
I would probably go with the Trickflow 4.6 2V intake personally.
I would probably go with the Trickflow 4.6 2V intake personally.
97stanger
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unless your running tons of n20 i would go with a PI
Jrgunn5150
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If you can get a BUllit for the same as a Trickflow, I would jump on it.
Jrgunn5150
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Definately, I beleive the needed parts include a throttle body, cable, special alternator or alternator bracket, and the gasket's should be good from your motor.
I't honestly only good for a pretty small gain on a mild to medium set-up, but it looks soooo cool, and it's going to support all the flow you can throw at it in the future.
I't honestly only good for a pretty small gain on a mild to medium set-up, but it looks soooo cool, and it's going to support all the flow you can throw at it in the future.
Jrgunn5150 said:
My heads are going for a stage 3 p n' p from MMR. I got the Comp Cams XE274H NPI cams and gonna be spraying 200 shot of juice. I have my shortblock built and its on a motor stand in my garage right now waiting for everything else to come in. The intake I am still up in the air about. There is a guy on a local racing board that has a 2000 GT he is trying to sell that has the P51 intake on it. I offered him a PI intake+ cash for the P51. Waiting to hear back from him on that one LOL
97stanger
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geez dude, 200 wet shot. def look into the bullet or RR or P51, any of them! good luck
Aluminum will blow just the same as plastic, nitrous is all in the tune. 200 is a huge shot on a 281 C.I motor, good luck :noes: . Make that kit as fail safe as possible, most only make it to 150 shot. I would love to see the dyno numbers put down with a 200 shot, surely it will be awsome.
Boomer! said:
I hope so... I am putting WAAAAY to much money into this car. If ya'll have seen Code3GT's car on mustangforums, he is the one I am building my motor after. He was running 11.25:1 CR and putting down 340 to the wheels. His new motor is gonna be 13.25:1 and he said he was shooting for 360 to the wheels on a mustang dyno. My motor is going to be VERY similar to his old motor except I'll have 12.5:1 CR.
97stanger
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good luck keeping up with mitch. you'll need it.
jfor441 said:
Sounds like you on the right path, although I'm not sure I'd want a cnc program head run for a N/a/nitrous engine. You may want to overlook their (MMR) flow data before making a purchase, CFM is great when you have forced induction, velocity is key when running N/A. The Trick flow intake would be a better choice of the intakes for your combo, the csa and runner length would be better suited for the profile of the 274 cams.
Don't qoute me but from what I have in my notes the trickflow has a shorter runner overall 1-1.5" and does not require all the extras that the bullitt requires. I have not had both on a flow bench to compare number, only data that is available csa and runner lengths and such. Running them thru the calculators gives a general idea of what works best, the dyno fine tunes it. You always here this is better than that and such, the more research and development the better, not to mention trying them on different combos with proven or unproven results. Most just find one thing that suites everyone and label it, a race company has 100's or 1000's of different scenarios worked out to optimize any combo.
If they don't have the numbers readly available they are selling off based CFM, which is what people look at because it is an advertisment tool more so than what an actual product is. You are going to want around 310 fps velocity average for your combo, again calculating the numbers so only a rough idea.
Just throwing my opinion around , you take it you do, or go whichever route you choose... Best of luck !!!!!!!!!!
If they don't have the numbers readly available they are selling off based CFM, which is what people look at because it is an advertisment tool more so than what an actual product is. You are going to want around 310 fps velocity average for your combo, again calculating the numbers so only a rough idea.
Just throwing my opinion around , you take it you do, or go whichever route you choose... Best of luck !!!!!!!!!!
Shocker98GT
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If I went nitrous and were that worried I'd just spend the extra money that you would put on the intake and get the NOSzle kit from NOS and call it a day, basically eliminates issues with puddling, etc.
Most of the intakes available for us don't add an appreciable amount of power unless you're planning either an extreme power adder (super, turbo) application, or you want to go n/a and need the short runners for spinning at higher RPMs (as in above 6500 or so). Even then you'll want it ported or extrude honed. For the typical street car operating from off idle to 6500 or so, none of the intakes help the overall torque curve that much over a stock PI intake with a good plenum/tb combo The other thing is the "real world" factor-that a plastic intake won't experience the heat soak that an aluminum one will. Something that won't show up on a dyno.
Plastic isn't the devil, it doesn't look pretty, but really there are plastics out there now that are stronger than most metals should companies choose to manufacture them as such.
Most of the intakes available for us don't add an appreciable amount of power unless you're planning either an extreme power adder (super, turbo) application, or you want to go n/a and need the short runners for spinning at higher RPMs (as in above 6500 or so). Even then you'll want it ported or extrude honed. For the typical street car operating from off idle to 6500 or so, none of the intakes help the overall torque curve that much over a stock PI intake with a good plenum/tb combo The other thing is the "real world" factor-that a plastic intake won't experience the heat soak that an aluminum one will. Something that won't show up on a dyno.
Plastic isn't the devil, it doesn't look pretty, but really there are plastics out there now that are stronger than most metals should companies choose to manufacture them as such.
Shocker98GT said:
I understand what you are saying as far as heat soak goes. I will be running a water-meth injection system so heat soak will be minimal. I am building a NA motor. I will see a lot of track time with my car. I am not going to run a NOSzle system simply because 1) the cost and 2) people who I have talked with that run NOSzle system on a regular basis were not very happy with it.
Shocker98GT, I agree with what your saying about the plastic intake. My advice was calculated to be the maximum out of what he showed as a package combo.
I would love to see a aftermarket composite intake, it undoubtedly would be king, much easier to modify for molding and cheaper to manufacture. You could have several intake designs for half the cost as the aluminum presenting a wider range of performance level parts from mild to wild. I have worked several plastic P.I intakes trying to alter them, cutting them open and sealing/ epoxying them together took to much effort to be worth the gains. I once sais I would design a aluminum intake but gave up, unless your in China the material is not worth the cost of design....LOL
I would love to see a aftermarket composite intake, it undoubtedly would be king, much easier to modify for molding and cheaper to manufacture. You could have several intake designs for half the cost as the aluminum presenting a wider range of performance level parts from mild to wild. I have worked several plastic P.I intakes trying to alter them, cutting them open and sealing/ epoxying them together took to much effort to be worth the gains. I once sais I would design a aluminum intake but gave up, unless your in China the material is not worth the cost of design....LOL
