Throttle Body

js98cobra

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There's a seller on ebay offering a complete intake kit for $675 shipped. Includes C&L MAF kit, C&L inlet tuble, and a twin 65mm BBK throttle body. Do yall think this is a good deal? I was also looking at the twin 65mm as opposed to the twin 62mm, is the bigger one too much for a N/A '98 Cobra? I dont want to be running too too lean. But i do plan to get a dyno tune shortly after the intake kit, if that's what i get. What do you guys think?

As a side question, after the tune and intake do yall think i'd run with a '03 camaro SS or c5 vette? ive got 10.5" saleens, 3.73s, MAC long tubes, MAC o/r H... i got her dyno'd after the long tubes and it was 275/268

Please dont let the focus change from the first question to the second, as I would much prefer answers to the first.
 

Turbo98

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What is the C&L tube? Is that a cold air intake? I don't see how that is going to give you much more power. I really don't think you need a bigger MAF or throttle body at this stage unless you are planning on going with a blower or something. Just my opinion.
 
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js98cobra

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air inlet tube is the tube between the MAF and the T/B... stock it's a piece of black hose.. C&L claims 11rhp from the MAF alone.. I'm trying to get as much power as i can N/A so naturally I'm trying to do all bolt-ons..
 

Dalamar

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I have all that, with the 75 mm tb. stepping up to turbos.

NA it's not worth it.
Just get a CAI and call it good.

if you do "all the bolt on's" you wont gain much for your money.

Why no supercharger?
 
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js98cobra

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i dont have the money to do a supercharger or turbos at this point.. so im just trying to prep with the boltons.. i did the full exhaust with mac LTs, mac o/r H, and FM 50series catback.. now i want to make her breath.. i'm still debating whether i'm going to do the full intake right now or get an MSD igntion, coils, wires, and NGK plugs.. but it's basically all in preparation for an intercooled ATI kit or hpperformance TT kit.. it will probably be the MSD stuff first though, because the intake stuff would require a tune immediately after to prevent damage from running too lean, since the o2 sensors arent hooked up because of the LTs and o/r H.. and i dont really have the money the moment for the tune.. How much do you guys think that would run me? to get a dyno tune and have a chip made..
 

Dalamar

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I hear ya on the money side!

question:
If your getting the procharger, it comes with the inlet to your TB.
so, why buy a CAI you'll be replacing.

TB wont see much gain unless you're pushing alot of boost.
The stock TB is fine for stock motor power ranges.

I say save it for the blower.
I've done most of the bolt on's and you dont get enough power to justify the cost.
Blow it, it comes with the induction side, and do your exhaust and tune.
:D


the cost for the tune depends on who you find. look for experience.
 

stampede3

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js98cobra said:
i dont have the money to do a supercharger or turbos at this point.. so im just trying to prep with the boltons.. i did the full exhaust with mac LTs, mac o/r H, and FM 50series catback.. now i want to make her breath.. i'm still debating whether i'm going to do the full intake right now or get an MSD igntion, coils, wires, and NGK plugs.. but it's basically all in preparation for an intercooled ATI kit or hpperformance TT kit.. it will probably be the MSD stuff first though, because the intake stuff would require a tune immediately after to prevent damage from running too lean, since the o2 sensors arent hooked up because of the LTs and o/r H.. and i dont really have the money the moment for the tune.. How much do you guys think that would run me? to get a dyno tune and have a chip made..


First off, C&L will lean you out and the TB isn't worth it N/A. Stock TB is even good enough for most blown applications.
Stock coil packs are a great system, so are the stock or ford racing wires. MSD will be a waste of money.

And what O2s are unhooked? If your talking about the rears then turn them off with a tune. You would benifit from a tune with the bolt ons you have anyway. But the rears have nothing to do with A/F ratio so they won't lean you out.
They are only there to tell you if your CATs are working properlly.
 
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js98cobra

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I'm not exactly sure.. But when we were hooking up the LTs i know that there were some 02 wires that wouldnt reach because i didnt get the extenders. And for some reason i feel like we didnt hook up any of the 4.. I could be wrong and the front 2 might be hooked up.. What would happen if the front 2 were unhooked?
 

venoNOS

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The front 2 measure air/fuel, If those are unhooked it may switch the computer to think its running a little rich or lean. Last September I dynoed mine with the current mods minus the Accufab TB and with out tune and it pulled 278rwhp and 271rwtq. I went back in early April this year and my base run before tune was 283rwhp 275rwtq. Not bad for bolting on the throttle body. After the tune I was happy! To say the least. If someone puts a throttle body,CAI,Pullies,Exhaust including headers its not going to feel like a complete package until you get everything tuned. The computer still thinks the car is stock. That's where the tune comes in. Its like putting on pads and helmet to play a football game, well if you dont know anything thats going on you wont be successful. But if your trained on what to do you can be a monster. Corny little scenario I know. Putting a bigger mass air meter doesn't do anything unless its been tuned or running a blower.When I first bought mine it laid down 255rwhp and same in trq. With my current set up I reached 298rwhp and 291rwtq, Not a bad gain, But the car screams now. Keep buying the bolt ons and at the end have it all come together with a tune. You will love it. Some say 49 hp increase and 36 tq isn't much, Trust me you will feel the difference in the seat of your pants. Good luck and happy modding. :thumb:
 

wopony98

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WOW, that is a lot of info. I will tell you a tune helps only a small fraction. SVT did a awesome job of tunning the Cobra's right out of the factory. If you pull the positive cable off the battery when you work on changing out the TB or MAF and then hook it back up the car will learn the new flow rates. You don't need a chip or tune unless you run NOS or a forced induction. Don't take my word go down to your local performance shop with a dyno and have them dyno your car then have them put in their tune. Remember you will pay for a tune anywhere from $200-$400.00 dollars. I have tried all the major brands as has my buddy. We both have EVERY SINGLE BOLT ON YOU CAN BUY. I saw 3rwhp gain at the rear. Now is 3rwhp worth 200-400 dollars??? HELL NO! Keep your money and save up for a S/C. I am kicking myself in the ass for not spending the money on the S/C first. Just my opinion. Each car is different but look at the price to HP you get. You could buy a NOS system for 200.00 more dollars and spray 100 shot into the engine without a single thing having to be done. I have seen and heard of 150 shot before a tune was needed. The SN95 Cobra's love Forced induction. The Swirl Head design makes for awesome power. Have fun

Mods: Complete Steeda Suspension package, FRP 4:10 gears, Tri-Axe shifter, accufab single blade TB, C&L Cold Air Pipe, Kenny Bell Dense Charger, Steeda Underdrive Pulleys, FRP 9mm wires, irridium plugs, royal purple oil, Bassanni Mid-length headers, with Magna Flow X-Pipe with High Flow Cats, SLP Cat back system, Not to mention all the bling, bling. 298rwhp (no tune), 300+tq.
 

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