Timing

95opal

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The codes that sang is an e g r which I don't have and low voltage to a pump I'm assuming that was connected to the emissions that I do not have it's like code 327 code 556 + 558 I have the Ford Mercury Lincoln OBD1 code reader not helping me any

Should have told us you had codes present.
556 - Fuel pump primary circuit failure
That needs to be fixed before you do anything else.
 
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Yeah that's not right let me re-read it real quick I was just trying to go off the memory and I will post in a second
 
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I put a new one on is there some special way you have to put it on as I recall I kind of had the push the butterfly flap so to speak open a little bit for the line up with the throttle position sensor does that sound right or my completely wrong here
 

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if you look at where the tps mounts to the TB there is a flat blade that comes out of the tb. That blade needs to go between the two points on the sensor. I found that I would put the sensor on so that the blade lined up but the screw holes were off just a tad and then rotate it into position. I also had one that was bad out of the box. They are easy to test with a volt meter by just testing the two wires to it to be sure that as you actuate the tb with the key on that the voltage moves nice and smooth and there isn' t any dead spots
 
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Is there anybody that lives in Harford County Maryland I'm sending out the SOS the car left me hanging this morning I couldn't make it to work I got halfway there broke down and just got home I can't figure it out
 

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My 2 c worth
If your car runs at all with out the MAF you are running on the Failed Maf table. its there to get you home in case of major problems,,,which it sounds like you have.
The PIP can do strange things and for the $90 that a dist cost is cheap to replace. Also the Temp sensor both Air and water WILL cause timing to pull, they are safety Band-Aids to the tune.
The new computer is always suspect,, check the Cap's
I spent a fortune trying to fix a problem , and caused a few in the process ,, that turned out to be RF noise coming from my expensive Mallory ceramic plug wires. So be warned.
$50 Ford racing wires made it ALL go away.
Learn to read the codes also
 

RAU03MACH

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i had a 88 F150 at one time with a 5.0 and i had no choice at the time to convert it to a carburetor
some how the wire harness got pinched and shorted out the computer, i went to many junk yards at the time trying to find the harness
and computer, i looked for 5 months could not find any
i got the ass at it and converted it over to carb , once people found out i did it , they were wanting all the computer junk off
i made a killing off of it
sometimes you do what you Gatta do
 
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My 2 c worth
If your car runs at all with out the MAF you are running on the Failed Maf table. its there to get you home in case of major problems,,,which it sounds like you have.
The PIP can do strange things and for the $90 that a dist cost is cheap to replace. Also the Temp sensor both Air and water WILL cause timing to pull, they are safety Band-Aids to the tune.
The new computer is always suspect,, check the Cap's
I spent a fortune trying to fix a problem , and caused a few in the process ,, that turned out to be RF noise coming from my expensive Mallory ceramic plug wires. So be warned.
$50 Ford racing wires made it ALL go away.
Learn to read the codes
10-4
 
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Fall guys thanks for everybody's help I did wind up getting it fixed this morning the yellow wire that goes to the alternator that is connected to the thick red and black with a yellow and green wire the yellow wire was cut I got a butt connector and Wallah
 
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Here it is
 

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Sorry about that little bit better picture
 

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Thanks again everybody for your knowledge and know-how greatly appreciate it
 

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there are a lot of things under the hood that can pull timing, the alternator is not one of them. If the voltage got low enough then it could cause problems but you should have been having charging issues if that were the case and had a dead battery as well. Butt connectors are a band aid under the hood where they will be exposed to weather and they will eventually fail
 

tvsn95

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Thanks again everybody for your knowledge and know-how greatly appreciate it
Congrats,, I believe you are showing the sensing wire , it normally goes into the connectors at the under hood fuse block.
In my personal opinion it reads too close to the Alt discharge wiring to be truly effective. I moved mine to the Red 12 volt wiring to the Injectors. that shows actual voltage drops that the ECU sees and comps well for the fans coming on ,ect.
I have written in the past about charging problems on our cars.
As for the comments about " a lot of things under the hood can pull timing" thats just BS. and served you poorly.
Once again Congrats,,,
 
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Congrats,, I believe you are showing the sensing wire , it normally goes into the connectors at the under hood fuse block.
In my personal opinion it reads too close to the Alt discharge wiring to be truly effective. I moved mine to the Red 12 volt wiring to the Injectors. that shows actual voltage drops that the ECU sees and comps well for the fans coming on ,ect.
I have written in the past about charging problems on our cars.
As for the comments about " a lot of things under the hood can pull timing" thats just BS. and served you poorly.
Once again Congrats,,,
Thank you so much greatly appreciate the high five it's been hard but one thing about never giving up it is called project 94
 
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Congrats,, I believe you are showing the sensing wire , it normally goes into the connectors at the under hood fuse block.
In my personal opinion it reads too close to the Alt discharge wiring to be truly effective. I moved mine to the Red 12 volt wiring to the Injectors. that shows actual voltage drops that the ECU sees and comps well for the fans coming on ,ect.
I have written in the past about charging problems on our cars.
As for the comments about " a lot of things under the hood can pull timing" thats just BS. and served you poorly.
Once again Congrats,,,
Thanks again sir
 

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