TOB going bad?

Cpotts13

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So here's the deal. My Mach has just short of 50k on it. It makes a chirping squeaking noise anytime the clutch is not depressed, even while driving. If even the slightest amount of pressure is placed on the clutch pedal, it is quite..

Here's a video for clicks..

[video=youtube;y0xpZqwU1kE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0xpZqwU1kE&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 

evilcw311

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Yep!!!!! Tob is goin bad. May last a year, may last a month.

Unfortunately they all go out differently. But that's exactly what it sounds like when it starts and if you can just barely push clutch and it gets quiet then that petty much sums it up


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Cpotts13

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Well darn.... Guess I may as well do the clutch while I am in there? What's a good clutch than?

I have been looking at the excedy Mach 400 stage 2.

Thought?

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evilcw311

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Clutches are like assholes......

Eeerrrrrrr......wait no that opinions!!! Point is there's tons of different ones and different reviews. Best thing I can say is so a search and you will find tons of comparisons with the good and bad.

I haven't had any experience with most of the clutches available with our cars so I'm no help on that part.


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g36 monkey

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What he said.

I've personally only seen a Ram HDX fail, but I've had luck with every other clutch.

But you know good and well by now, only the motorcraft TOB.
 

chris91

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I recommend the Centerforce Dual Friction clutches. Had them in all of my 5 speed cars and never had a problem with them.
 

lutter94

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I have an exedy stage 1 I really like. A buddy thinks the spring is heavy though, idk its fine with me.
 

Burninriverdiver

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The ford racing replacement clutch isn't too bad for a driver. I've got one in mine and it's the same stiffness as the stock clutch was when I removed it (hell I don't know if that's what came in it anyhow). No problems with it in ~15k miles
 

Sinned83

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Did my clutch in spring upgraded to McLeod street pro, termi flywheel and frpp TOB and pilot bearing. My TOB went bad after only a couple thousand miles. I like the clutch and flywheel revs quick but I hate the 3650. I'm thinking about a t56
 

ElrodKTPQ_89

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So wtf causes tob's to fail so randomly? When we swapped my 5 speed in this summer the tob lasted a couple months...replaced it with another ford tob and it made it a couple weeks and has started doing the same damn thing.
 

evilcw311

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Biggest problem is people with adjustable quadrants and firewall adjusters who don't have their stuff adjusted correctly. They adjust it in to far(too tight) and the tob is always in action when it shouldn't be.


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Cpotts13

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In terms of flywheels, what do y'all think of the "lightweight" ones? Are they worth the extra bread?
Also; what about those fancy ARP flywheel bolts? Are they worth it?

I would like a clutch that is future proof; There are cams or a supercharger in my future and don't want to have to replace the clutch again. With that being said I don't think I need any of those fancy dual clutch's.

I will for sure be doing the pilot and TOB from Ford Racing.
 

Sinned83

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The termi flywheels are like 11 lbs lighter. So worth it. I bought mine on eBay and sent it to McLeod to be cleaned up. Less than $200 total
 

g36 monkey

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A buddy of mine found a used aluminum flywheel around here in a scrap yard and had it resurfaced for like $50, worked like a charm.

The main downside to lighter flywheels is it's sometimes difficult to keep the rev up enough to drive smoothly, however, don't be a bi**h lol.

I can't comment on the bolts I haven't used them, but if the plan is for big power, I would.
 

evilcw311

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The lighter flywheels will allow the rpms to rap up a little faster as it does with anything that lightens the rotating mass. They will also drop faster in between shifts which is just a matter of getting use to.


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kb1982

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If you buy a new flywheel, I would go with a one that has a replacable friction surface. Also look around for a local clutch company near you. I have one near me called Ky Clutch. All they do is rebuild clutches, and you can usually score a pretty good deal. I talked to the owner and we kinda mixed and matched components for my needs. Best thing is be honest about your intended usage and power output if you go this route. I think i had all of 250 dollars in my clutch setup, that replaced a centerforce daul friction unit that costed hundreds more. I ended up with a pressure plate that has the clamp load of a stage 4 clutch and a 6 puck sprung hub disc that is daul friction material. Holds great, but it has some drawbacks also such as wearing out your leg and alot of chatter if you try slipping the clutch in traffic. When i say chatter, i mean that it feels like it wants to break something when slipped, thats how grabby it is. I either have it all in or all out, and no slow releasing it. But I was well aware of this and the owner also advised me of how it was going to act before i bought it. I will say the centerforce had great manners though. Easy pedal and no chatter at all. When I took it out, it had lots of material left, but it was glazed over severly from slipping when the boost started rising.
 
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Cpotts13

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Just an update:

I just ordered a FRPP TOB. aaaaaanddd... thats it.

I don't see the need to replace a non slipping clutch that likely has plenty of life left on it. I don't race the car or do anything crazy with it so i should be fine with the oem at my power levels and needs.

Now i get to look forward to spending a day removing the transmission just to get to a $50 bearing :undecided:
 

g36 monkey

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I'd do at least the pilot bearing while I was in there as well. Get a loaf of bread ready to get it out
 

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