Took this '94 on Trade with a Built 351W and T56 - First Time Ford Owner

domhoff13

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Hi,

I am new here I took this '94 GT on trade for a high milage lifted blazer that I had. Any ways it has some problems that need sorted out since I don't really know all that much about ford's, I am looking for some information and I figured this was a good place to start.

As far as the car is concerned it has 126K miles the engine and trans have about 11K miles on them. The guy I got the car off of did nothing to the car except burn the clutch up and park it for two years (roughly 2k miles). He bought the car off of a friend, who also did not build it. The car has no rust, however the paint is chipping and it also needs door pins on the drivers side. The clutch cable is loose at the fire wall, it seems to have a billet adjuster and a secondary clutch cable adjuster. I am not really sure.

Anyways it seems to have the D&D aluminum bell housing for the T56, pro 5.0 shifter, some brand of tubular K-member and sfc's, UPR caster/camber plates, S351 wing (not my favorite I want an S281), eibach drop springs.

For the Engine:

It needs some sorting too, there is a surge at idle and a slight mis, a vacuum leak, a funky change vacuum pressure when it surges, as if the valves are not set correctly. It needs retuned for sure, I am just not sure if it still has the stock computer.

Aftermarket engine parts:
Decent hyd. roller cam - Not sure of specs
Ported Aluminum Heads - Not sure of brand I found the information of who ported them but cant make out the scribe marks with a mirror.
Pro-Flo 75mm MAF
BBK Edelbrock 70mm throttle body
Comp Polymers intake plenum with composite spacer
SVO intake base and Elbow
Crane Gold 1.6 RR
30lb Red top inj.
Ford Fuel rails
STD 4.00" bore

There are a lot of little things that I keep noticing everytime I look at the car that could be worked on. I will keep it up to date or is there a better place for this?

Thanks.
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mcglsr2

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Welcome to the site! If you want to document changes you are making or a build, the best place is in the Build Ups & Projects section, located here. Go ahead and start yourself a thread there and get moding! :D
 
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domhoff13

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Thanks gentlemen, this is my first time owning a Mustang like I had mentioned. I have and normally only own GM products (my other toys past and present: '82 Camaro LTx T56 swap, '94 1LE Z28 Camaro, and another '94 Z28, etc.) but this deal came along and was too good to pass up for my Blazer. It appears that the firewall adjuster for the clutch is a UPR piece and is either not correctly hooked up with the cable or the cable is the wrong one.
 

RichV

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Is that a plumbing PVC 90* on the MAF? Sweet! :)

Good looking car plus a 351 to boot. Definitely clean it up and fix the little things. Welcome to the Mustang world, lots of tech here with a lot of knowledgeable members.
 
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domhoff13

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Yes that was a piece of rubber tubing from a hardware store. That has since been removed. All sensors were removed and cleaned. New cap and base. New pilot bearing, throw out, clutch and pressure plate, ground the flywheel. The car is almost together I am hoping to have it done and driving it tomorow. I will put up some pics when I get to my computer.
 

yzfr6i

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Welcome to the site... The comp cam intake is more than likely the cause of your surging idle, and erratic vacuum readings. I had one on my 88GT (which was speed density) and because of the design they don't produce much vacuum at an idle. Also the upper half and lower half do not use a gasket, instead you have to use RTV. So check that and make sure there isn't a leak.

I'm not saying to ditch the intake, as they do make good power. You just have to tune it to idle properly. I ended up putting a PMS on my '88 and after a little work had it idling like stock.
 

kb1982

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Welcome to the forums. The vacuum leak is prolly what is causing your surging.
 
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domhoff13

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I took care of the vac lines, cleaned everything checked all of the things that could be causing issues. I do not like that intake either, I think it is a lousey design, if anything it should be o-ringed. The weather sucks thus it has not been nice enough outside yet to try the car. Oh I ran the valves it has and noticed this time it has Twisted Wedge heads.

I took the both dist. pieces off the shelf they are actually for a crane billet dist. for a chevy not a Ford but it was the only ones that would fit, the parts store couldn't find the correct cap in their system.

The car has the URP quadrant clutch cable system. The previous owner did not know what they were doing and half-assed it. It fits like a glove now. I am just not sure on how much gap the TB should have some say it has to be on the fingers and others say 1/4" both are pretty absurd.

Anyways here are some more pics.

The pressure plate from in-experienced mechanics...
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The expensive ram billet flywheel heavily burnt, it took an hour to regrind the thing...
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Engine back together, I need to make a bracket to bolt the MAF to rather than zip tie the thing.
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Interior is finally back together. I also need to wire up a switch to activate the reverse lockout so that I am not pushing through it all the time.
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the5.ohh

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Fair warning, that upr kit is garbage. Not busting balls, just trying to help out. Everyone swears by the oem cable.
 
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domhoff13

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Well the car is finished ... almost anyways. It needs an IAC for sure, hood pins that actually work, and an inspection. I hope to be driving it tomorrow since it is supposed to be a balmy 50*.

The clutch was a pain in the ass to set but it finally got it taken care of. The MSD box was moved do to the terrible placement of it. I also showed my love for the bowtie when I put the plug wires on ... I hook them up to fire in the direction of a chevy rather than ford which rotates in the op. direction.

Please don't mind the hand prints :mad:.
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kb1982

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When I went to prime my oil pump, I ended up blowing bubbles in the pan instead of creating oil pressure lol. Wanna them "oh yea" moments. Glad you got it ready for a cruise. And dont forget to put them hood pins back in. I would suggest that every time you open the hood, put the pins back in, that way you cant get the hood closed without having the pins in your hand already.
 

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