Tricks and hints

Nacho · Jan 10, 2007

ryclef331 said:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com//Detailed/50.shtml

You ain't gotta use steel for the straight piece. I used PVC Pipe for the whole setup. They say you need a "MAF Adapter." I ended up figuring out a way to chop up the stock air box to get a cone filter on the end. It wasn't pretty but I got it.

Also when you're in there working with the MAF...rip out the screen. MAKE SURE you get all the lil strands.

Yep, a home made cai is cheaper and does the same thing as the aftermarket ones. I have one! And STAY away from a steel pipe, they heat up so bad that they can cause problems with your IAC (heat soak, I think it's called). It basically heats up a lot that it's inducting nothing but HOT air and since the tube is hot, the iac can soak and get out of whack. It isn't the first time that someone claims that pullies dropped their time by several tenths. And regarding your tranny, when my car was auto, I found it to run BEST when left in D. It shifted firmer and pulled harder.

Demolisher · Jan 10, 2007

ya when i race i leave it on D :thumb:

Hicks · Jan 10, 2007

lol... okay im probly going to try the pvc pipe thing... can yall take some photos for me please????? :help2:

ryclef331 · Jan 10, 2007

if you look at that link I posted, thats what it looks like. Mine isn't on my car anymore and I don't have any pics of the old setup.

Hicks · Jan 10, 2007

lol thanks bro!!!! how do you ajust your timing? and what does it do? importance of it?

94Gt5.0 · Jan 11, 2007

When my car was basically stock i found that a CAI, pullies, exhaust, timing, gears and shift kit really gave it a good kick in the pants, went from running 14.40's to 13.50-13.70's

94Gt5.0 · Jan 11, 2007

As for adjusting your timing you need to remove the timing sprout located near the air box, get a timing light, loosen the distributor bolt and adj to where you want the timing set at, 14 degrees is good for a street setup. After plug the timing sprout back in and let the car sit for about 15 mins off. This will allow the car to "learn" the new timing position and get the A/F ratio correct. Also like someone else said look weight reduction where you can. At the strip remove the front sway bar, rear seats, etc. you can find that you can remove 100lbs or more very easily, smog pump and egr is also another thing you can remove and being that its older than a 96 you can get around the inspection if you know someone that will visually pass it.

ryclef331 · Jan 11, 2007

read this for timing adjustment. with pics too...

http://www.muscularmustangs.com/timing.php

Hicks · Jan 11, 2007

seems simple aside the hole get a light facter lol...

Demolisher · Jan 14, 2007

ok i got a ? when u take off the backsets of a CONV. what do u do wit the plastic peice behind the back seat (where the converbtale top goes when its down) like do u gotta rip that out ?

Demolisher · Jan 14, 2007

ok got another ? for nacho since my car is basically stock except for the borlas, X pipe, and k$N if i bump up my timeing to 14 * will it affect my car in anyway?

Hicks · Jan 14, 2007

yea it will from what they told me

just make sure it aint pinging

Demolisher · Jan 14, 2007

pinging ???

Downshift · Jan 14, 2007

Here is a great explanation
http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=6520.0

Nacho · Jan 17, 2007

C'mon Demo, do some research buddy. :slap:

CanaryGT · Jan 20, 2007

I agree about the timing and the CAI. Also, you may want to invest in some gears. IF you go 5-speed route you could get 3.73, 3.90 or 4.10's. If you're gonna go for the auto... just get 4.10's. ANY gear ratio higher than stock would help out a lot!

Win · Jan 20, 2007

You know what i did first i yanked off the stupid stock exhaust just ran the car with all 4 cats......well then i bumped the timing and next thing you know i run a 93 octane and still have pinging????? i never did when i first got the car and just ran 87 i have tested everything..... i mean everything i have done a full tuneup and used all ford motorcraft stuff i even tried a new IAC well next thing you know my idle is eratic and it won't hold a idle......well the IAC i got was a new Ford unit didn't fix it..... i have to run 93 with the best octane booster money can buy....any one have any idea...... sorry to hack your thread......

I would say since your doing a motor just do some 4.10's you can get a set around 150 on the net.....I have a Vert Auto so talk about PIG off the line......But damn once you get her rolling that thing just hauls A**. It will light up a set of tires also and do a brake stand like no other

ryclef331 · Jan 20, 2007

What did you bump the timing to. 94-95 are sensitive computers. Noone will dispute that. HOWEVER...I will dispute that you CAN get your car to idle.

Have you checked your TPS voltage? People will tell you that "Oh, it is automatically set whenever you start the car, bla bla bla." Thats bullshit flat OUT. There is absolutely NO reason you can get your car to idle with a stock ECU program and mods.

This is how....start car...warm it up.

set the timing. (ask if you don't know how...you did remove the spout right?)

shut the car OFF

Key ON and Engine OFF

Set the TPS voltage to .95p-.99...the closer to .99 the better

Finally, using the idle screw....set your idle. You SHOULD be able to do this with the Idle Air Control Valve unplugged entirely. Granted, I've ran in to a car or two that this didn't work on so I set it with it connected.

ONCE EVERYTHING IS DONE, disconnect the battery cables (both of the them) and them touch the positve cable to the ground for a few seconds. This will IMMEDIATELY clear out the ECU. Forget leave the battery unhooked for hours or minutes or what the hell ever you were taught before....just do this. It works. Reconnect, start car, warm up with ALL accessories off. shut car off for two minutes. start again with all on (A/C, headlights, radio,etc). Let idle for two minutes...then go DRIVE. If your shit is good to go. THIS WILL WORK.

Win · Jan 20, 2007

ryclef331 said:
What did you bump the timing to. 94-95 are sensitive computers. Noone will dispute that. HOWEVER...I will dispute that you CAN get your car to idle.

Have you checked your TPS voltage? People will tell you that "Oh, it is automatically set whenever you start the car, bla bla bla." Thats bullshit flat OUT. There is absolutely NO reason you can get your car to idle with a stock ECU program and mods.

This is how....start car...warm it up.

set the timing. (ask if you don't know how...you did remove the spout right?)

shut the car OFF

Key ON and Engine OFF

Set the TPS voltage to .95p-.99...the closer to .99 the better

Finally, using the idle screw....set your idle. You SHOULD be able to do this with the Idle Air Control Valve unplugged entirely. Granted, I've ran in to a car or two that this didn't work on so I set it with it connected.

ONCE EVERYTHING IS DONE, disconnect the battery cables (both of the them) and them touch the positve cable to the ground for a few seconds. This will IMMEDIATELY clear out the ECU. Forget leave the battery unhooked for hours or minutes or what the hell ever you were taught before....just do this. It works. Reconnect, start car, warm up with ALL accessories off. shut car off for two minutes. start again with all on (A/C, headlights, radio,etc). Let idle for two minutes...then go DRIVE. If your shit is good to go. THIS WILL WORK.

yeah the tps is the last thing i have yet to try. I have literally gone over every electrical thing in my car it's either the TPS or a bad computer i am pretty sure its the TPS

Thanks for that.....Your the only other person i know that does what i do with the Batt Cables... EVERYONE FREAKS OUT WHEN I DO IT THERE LIKE OH YOUR GOING TO FRY THE COMP I AM LIKE HOW. These people being my workers in my shop and me being a tech ha