Trunk Mount Battery How To. (Updated with pics)

Discussion in 'Tech Articles, How-To's & Write Ups' started by Sn95Willis, Jul 1, 2007.

  1. Sn95Willis

    Sn95Willis Active Member

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    OK i am going to buy the box and mounts today for the trunk.. What gauge wire do i need? Also what all connections will i need... I want to do it where i can turn the battery off when the car is parked... And a diagram would help also....
     
  2. Suspect

    Suspect Well-Known Member

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  3. Sn95Willis

    Sn95Willis Active Member

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    Re: Battery relocation parts list?

    You da man!!!
     
  4. ryclef331

    ryclef331 Well-Known Member

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    Re: Battery relocation parts list?

    Ok....I'll explain it as best I can and I'll sticky this with a diagram as well....

    The above mentioned kit is great....to start with. It doesn't have a kill switch or anything though so TECHNICALLY, you're not legal for NHRA. In order to be completely tech legal, you have to have a kill switch clearly labeled ON/ OFF (if its a turn type) or PUSH OFF (if its a push pull style....mine says "WHACK OFF"...get it? Pics to come). You box also has to SEALED and VENTED outside the car (unless you run a dry cell batter like optima.

    Tips....

    Your cable can never be too big!!! The more length you add, the harder it is for the current to flow. 1/0 is a MINIMUM! Also remember the strand count helps too. Electricity doesn't travel THROUGH the copper strands...it travels on the SURFACE! Therefore, more smaller strands means more over all surface area in the same gauge wire....translating to MORE FLOW! This is why you'll see some people use welding leads. 2 gauge is NOT big enough for a street car in my opinion. It may work for some but I wouldn't trust it.

    GROUNDS GROUNDS GROUNDS!!! An electrical system is just like a chain...only as strong as the weakest link. If you got HUGE cables for the positive but a weak ground, it all pointless. Again...SURFACE AREA is key! Alot of people like to ground to the quad shock mount. Whatever you ground to, make SURE you clean ALL PAINT AND UNDERCOATING OFF TO BARE METAL!!! I ground my car to the truck latch....I know it only 3 8mm bolts holding it on right...BUT when you clean the paint off the the ENTIRE BACK of the plate for the catch and the paint on the body itself, you have TONS of surface area. You also need to ground the engine to the front inner fender some how. Again, too many grounds is not possible. From the motor mount to the frame is ideal. You can buy straps at the parts store for cheap. A couple of them on the motor and you're good.

    BECAREFUL WHERE YOU DECIDE TO MOUNT YOUR BATTERY! Look under the car before you start punching holes in your trunk. MAKE SURE you can get to the back side. The "J" Hook Hold downs will NOT pass tech! The battery needs to be BOLTED DOWN! So, depending on where you mount it, you might have to drop your gas tank. Mine in mounted in my spare tire well and the trunk liner notched....yes I had to drop my tank.


    INSTALL

    Under the car, through the car, on the roof...doesn't matter where you run the positive cable....just remember to keep it away from excessive heat and move parts. Now the routing isn't going to go to the stock fuse box....this HAS worked for me in the past but I still don't like it. I route mine like this. POSITVE cable from the battery in the trunk to the STARTER POLE...we'll get to the switch later. From the STARTER POLE, run a wire to the POSITVE ON THE FUSE BOX (this wire is already there from the factory so you're good)! Do your grounds and BAM! You're DONE!

    NOW this is what summit's kit doesn't give you....

    In order to make SURE you're legal, the car has to be able to be COMPLETELY shut down when that switch is hit. In in order to accomplish this, you need to route your alternator wire to the BACK of the car.

    REMOVE the wire from the alternator to the starter all together. You need to route 2 gauge (again...at LEAST 2 gauge) from the positive terminal on the alternator all the way to the back of the car to you switch. If you just have the switch kill the battery cable ONLY and NOT the alternator, the car will continue to run. You have to interupt ALL the current.

    Here is your wiring diagram.

    [​IMG]

    MOUNTING THE SWTICH

    This is a pain. Fox body guys have it easy b/c the back of their trunk isn't attached to the lid so the license plate makes a PERFECT spot. Mount the switch somewhere where it will not bid with anything in or outside the car and the opertation of the switch isn't hindered. AGAIN, pics coming soon but my personal car is a push pull type switch in which the rod can be removed all together easily so noone can get funny and shut me down on the street. I removed the driver's side tail light, removed the reverse bulb and drilled through the lens as well as the trunk "wall." Alignment is KEY so take your time. You only get one shot! Again, pics coming soon so be patient. Put the switch where ever you can! Get creative! You CAN put it on the lid it self and hide it behind your plate if you feel like routing the cables up the trunk arms. Its all up to you!

    Hope this helps. Any questions ASK!

    I'll update with pics and more advice later.
     
  5. black94331

    black94331 New Member

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    Re: Trunk Mount Batter How To.

    so whats the purpose of routing your positive wire ti the starter first and not the fuse box, cuz isnt it routed to the fuse box first factory?
     
  6. ryclef331

    ryclef331 Well-Known Member

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    Re: Trunk Mount Batter How To.

    The short cable from the fuse box to the start is fine....when its trip is that short. Starting you car draws MORE current that anything else. You need as much current flow as possible. Multiple points along the way hinder that. If you look though, just b/c you put the cable directly on the starter, you still have your original cable from the starter to the fuse box, to power the fuse box. Everything will still work as stock.
     
  7. black94331

    black94331 New Member

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    Re: Trunk Mount Batter How To.

    ok gotcha
     
  8. Schiffy

    Schiffy Well-Known Member

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    Re: Trunk Mount Batter How To.


    How about.......... you just hop on a plane and help me do mine, becasue i am NOT good when it comes to wiring ANYTHING. LOL... I need to check the law back home in Houston, to see if i need reverse lights to pass inspection. here in VA i don't, but i'm only in VA until my enlistment is up, then back to Houston where i have to go through inspections every year.
     
  9. CanaryGT

    CanaryGT Well-Known Member

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    Re: Trunk Mount Batter How To.

    Can you explain the whole Dry Cell thing? Cause I have a Optima and I dont have it vented... so thats okay??
     
  10. ryclef331

    ryclef331 Well-Known Member

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    Re: Trunk Mount Batter How To.

    Thats fine. Dry cell batteries don't produce the toxic fumes that a regular wet cell battery does
     
  11. 95PGTTech

    95PGTTech Well-Known Member

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    Re: Trunk Mount Batter How To.

    so what are the NHRA restrictions on dry cell batteries as far as mounting goes? does it still have to be in the box or have the blowdown tube and/or have a rear firewall? I can't find them in my handbook.
     
  12. ryclef331

    ryclef331 Well-Known Member

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    Re: Trunk Mount Batter How To.

    No you don't have to vent a dry cell or box it.
     
  13. CanaryGT

    CanaryGT Well-Known Member

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    Re: Trunk Mount Batter How To.

    In your opinion, whats the best way to put a On/off Switch in? Cause I have had my battery relocated for some time now and I still dont have a on off button/switch.
     
  14. ryclef331

    ryclef331 Well-Known Member

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    Re: Trunk Mount Batter How To.

    I've been busy as hell lately with at the shop and my car is at home so I don't spend much time with it lately but I do plan on getting pics of my switch mount b/c (I think) its pretty trick. If you look at your tail lights, see where the reverse light portion of the lense is? I took the bulb out and drilled a hole of the shaft to go through directly though the reverse light lense. Then I removed the light from the car and cut a hole through the trunk "rear wall." So the shaft runs through the tail light, and into the trunk to trip the switch. When I want to, I can unscrew the shaft and throw it in the trunk so noone can get "funny" and shut me off on the street or something dumb. The hole in the lense is minimal as well and I can throw the reverse light bulb back in and it still functions. I finished it off with a pair of brass knuckles for the handle instead of the boring black handle.
     
  15. CanaryGT

    CanaryGT Well-Known Member

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    Re: Trunk Mount Batter How To.

    Dude... You gave to get some pics and a writeup...
     
  16. trav_19

    trav_19 Legend

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    Re: Trunk Mount Battery How To.

    thats how i want to mount my push pull switch...i was curious if i could bump it over more and put it in the lower refelcetive part of our tails instead of the back up light part...would that work or is it to far over?? i would really like to see yours
     
  17. ryclef331

    ryclef331 Well-Known Member

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    Pics...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It will say "Whack Off!" instead of "Push Off." soon...
     
  18. trav_19

    trav_19 Legend

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    so you went right throught the bulb opening??!?
     
  19. ryclef331

    ryclef331 Well-Known Member

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    yes. Unless you run the cables UP the trunk hinges, you're drilling into the bumper cover or the taillight. With this, I can pull the handle and throw the bulb back in but 1 reverse light is more than enough.
     
  20. trav_19

    trav_19 Legend

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    i really like the light its the style i want i was just curious if you could drill into the reflective part and not have to mess with the back up bulb....but i think it would have to be drilled at a angle to get it into the right spot inside the trunk and making too much work....im just curious about rain or what not when the car is driven on the street and the rod is removed