two weeks...

ttocs

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does anyone else get nervous when someone tells them it will take them two weeks to finish something? Every time I hear it I think of this.
Or else this comes to mind as well
6 weeks ago I ordered a low profile shifter from three pedals automotive that was supposed to buy me .6" of space which should be enough to fit my t56 in. They said it would take about 2 weeks to machine it and while I didn't really want to wait 2 weeks I thought its been this long so what is another 2 weeks? Since then I have got the same excuse 2 weeks in a row that they needed to make some adjustments and would do it in the next couple of days. Its been 6 weeks and needless to say I have lost faith in them. Today I got under the car and looked at what would be needed to clearance the space but it looks like I should really take out the console and probably the dash to do this. I figure that damn stock jute insulation will probably catch fire cutting through and I also have a bunch of wires that go over that spot as well. So should I continue to hope that they will FINALLY come through or should I just pull out the saw, BFH and the welder and go around them?
 
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ttocs

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Really....

KycHBKC.png

What would you say here?
 

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have you considered the possibility that your transmission is just too high and it would be simpler to just modify the crossmember? if I were you i'd cut a hole so that i could drop the shifter down right through the hole on to the transmission which would both eliminate the need for a low pro shifter AND make it easy to fill the trans from the top.

post a pick of the shifter from the top through the car if ya don't mind. maybe we can come up with another solution. i'd get a refund at this point, i had to do that with jegs and some pistons a while back.
 
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ttocs

ttocs

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have you considered the possibility that your transmission is just too high and it would be simpler to just modify the crossmember?
I need a TAD more space between the trans tunnel and the shifter plate. I think I just found american powertrain makes a low profile shifter, I am going to call them in the morning for sure. If they do I will let three wishes know some how that the order has been cancelled and man would I love to do that.
 
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ttocs

ttocs

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damn the american powertrain version doesn't gain any space and go figure three fuckers is now ghosting me. I have never had a company take an order, take 3 times as long to not deliver what they said they could and then just stop responding to simple requests to find out the status. I am about to light them up on every social media place I can put the story and I am not saying I am influencer that it will make a damn bit of difference to them but it will make me feel better and maybe later someone will do a search and find it before hoping they deliver.

I am not sure how good of an idea it is to modify the cross member or even how I would go about that. I am certainly not opposed to cutting or hammering on the car as I have done it plenty of times and this is on the bottom so it would not show but my problem is that I would really need to remove the dash to do it right and not do damage to it or set the stock jute insulation on fire with the cutting wheel sparks.
 

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damn the american powertrain version doesn't gain any space and go figure three fuckers is now ghosting me. I have never had a company take an order, take 3 times as long to not deliver what they said they could and then just stop responding to simple requests to find out the status. I am about to light them up on every social media place I can put the story and I am not saying I am influencer that it will make a damn bit of difference to them but it will make me feel better and maybe later someone will do a search and find it before hoping they deliver.

I am not sure how good of an idea it is to modify the cross member or even how I would go about that. I am certainly not opposed to cutting or hammering on the car as I have done it plenty of times and this is on the bottom so it would not show but my problem is that I would really need to remove the dash to do it right and not do damage to it or set the stock jute insulation on fire with the cutting wheel sparks.
Have you reached out to Tremec for suggestions? You cannot be the first person to do this or encounter this issue. I would be very frustrated at this point.
 
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ttocs

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Have you reached out to Tremec for suggestions? You cannot be the first person to do this or encounter this issue. I would be very frustrated at this point.
I have not just because I figured the only other option was just to make the space one way or another.
 
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ttocs

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well good news bad news. They actually responded!?!?! Amazing AND even more exciting they actually started on the job!!!! The bad news is that they have an issue with their cnc and they are going to have to get it serviced which to me means that it couldn't possibly take more than a couple of days? I mean no way it would take two weeks.............


Two weeks.
 

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Just back to your original post at the top of this, yes, Total Recall does spring to mind every time 2 weeks is mentioned!

TMW
 
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I just realized that they actually sent me 2 emails. One has pics of where they are at, and the other says that the machine went down last Thursday.

I think I am going to take some cardboard and cut it out a pattern to match the curve of the area I need to clearance and then see if I can gently massage enough space with my hammer. I think I really only need 1/4-3/8" and if I have the pattern to check hopefully I can see when I am making space. I do not like the image of my custom dash bouncing around as I bash below it but I am afraid to find out in two weeks they have finally found someone to service it and they will be there in another 2 weeks.
 
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ttocs

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What are you missing that is causing the spacing issues?
I am not missing anything for the install but I am having an issue with the shifter hitting the transmission hump. The shifter I found was a low profile shifter that did not stick up so far and gained just over .5" to stop this. I literally need to raise it up the last 1/4-3/8" and it should just fit. The spots that hit first are the bolts that hold the shifter in place and they are a standard 1/2" bolt that sticks up pretty high. I am going to see if I can find some flat head bolts that do not stick up so much and then do a little work with my hammer to make a little space on the other side.
 

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I am not missing anything for the install but I am having an issue with the shifter hitting the transmission hump. The shifter I found was a low profile shifter that did not stick up so far and gained just over .5" to stop this. I literally need to raise it up the last 1/4-3/8" and it should just fit. The spots that hit first are the bolts that hold the shifter in place and they are a standard 1/2" bolt that sticks up pretty high. I am going to see if I can find some flat head bolts that do not stick up so much and then do a little work with my hammer to make a little space on the other side.
Interesting. I would have assumed T-56 into a 94-95 would have been done enough by now to work out kinks like that, based on bellhousing and trans mounts. Hopefully between your hammer gently requesting the tunnel comply, and the new shifter you are good to go.
 
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Interesting. I would have assumed T-56 into a 94-95 would have been done enough by now to work out kinks like that, based on bellhousing and trans mounts. Hopefully between your hammer gently requesting the tunnel comply, and the new shifter you are good to go.
I know and it makes me worry that the front end damage years ago might have been corrected as well as I hoped it was. I checked with stifflers to ensure I had the right cross member, double checked that the motor mounts were not off or up to high so the only thing I can think of is the frame itself.

I have heard of people putting spacers under the K I thought to help make space for tall motors and makes me wonder if I should make one out of some 6061 on the cnc...
 

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I know and it makes me worry that the front end damage years ago might have been corrected as well as I hoped it was. I checked with stifflers to ensure I had the right cross member, double checked that the motor mounts were not off or up to high so the only thing I can think of is the frame itself.

I have heard of people putting spacers under the K I thought to help make space for tall motors and makes me wonder if I should make one out of some 6061 on the cnc...
Are their any body shops you trust that could check the frame out? Spacers would probably work, but you don't want the driveline angle to be off and create vibration.

Sidebar, I grew up in KC and we would drive to West Virginia to visit family in the summer. We would normally break the trip up into two days, and would normally stop in either Mount Vernon, IL or Evansville. Small world.
 
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I took it to a shop I trusted to have the frame fixed/checked and might have to consider trying another if there are issues after its in. I am afraid with the longer length and if it is up higher that it should be now that the driveline might be at too much of an angle and cause vibrations like White was having. I was happy to find some recessed flat hex head bolts at the hardware store that I think will buy me a little bit of space. I have been busy with some jobs for other people on my cnc this week and have not been able get in it

Yea there isn't any reason to stop in E'ville or the surrounding area unless your just passing through. It isn't necessarily a bad place but it certainly isn't exciting either.
 
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the new bolts as they sit now get me another 1/8". In this pic the original is on the left and the new one on the right. This location does not pose a problem I was just pulled that bolt to match up because it was easy and wanted to see the difference. If I machine the plate so that the counter sink screws are flush with the cover I can get another 1/16
PLaNvkM.jpg


and with that little bit now this is where the cross member gets to.
Zcctuvo.jpg

I am not sure my drill press is solid enough to use my countersink bits on it as they have had problems with chattering on other materials. I am considering the cnc but the countersink bits I have a 1/4" hex adaptor on them and I am not sure how I can get that on the cnc. I might just take it to a shop to ensure its done right as there is one not to far away.

I would still plan on doing some hammer work on the bottom as well but its closer.
 
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i'd cut and fab a maintenance cover for the bigger hole.
I looked at it again today but I really am not comfortable cutting with the dash in place as its all just too close. I think I can get the space I need with some light massaging, I hope... I have not yet told the three fuckers shove it where the sun don't shine just because the way karma messes with me I would fire the email off and then what I am doing now would still not work.
 
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ttocs

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I took off the shifter and the front plate and after some consideration I decided to drop them off at my local machine shop to have them do the modifications for the countersink screws. I have some countersink bits but I know that my drill press is not stiff enough to keep them from chattering with acrylic so I know the aluminum will not be better. Hopefully they will do them monday morning they said and they have always been pretty good about turn around time.

I think I am still going to be JUST a tad bit short and I was remembering more about when I installed the M&M(DRINK MOFO's!) K I remembered it mentioning some spacers that could be installed and today I happened to come across them. Reading their instructions they say to slide the spacers in if I am using an aftermarket oil pan or long tube headers which makes me wonder if I shouldn't throw them in?

". Attach the supplied MM(DRINK) K-member brace to the MM(DRINK) K-member. If you are using a stock oil pan and shorty headers, the K-member brace should be installed flush with the bottom of the K-member using the 1/2” X 1-1/4” G8 bolts with an M12 X 24mm OD washer under the head of each bolt . If you have an aftermarket oil pan or long-tube headers, space the brace down as far as possible using the provided spacers, the 1/2” Flat washers, and the 1/2” X 2” long bolts with an M12 x 24mm OD washer under the head of each bolt. Snug, but do not fully tighten the bolts. The K-brace tube is offset. Bias it forward or rearward as needed for clearance.

Because everybody loves M&M, or at least everybody that matters :)
 

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