U-joints? Mounts?

[A_+]

Close! Passenger side upper. Maybe after struggling with the driver side, they gave up and called it a day. They’re such a good shop too but I’ve been screwed there too many times. I guess it’s shame on me...

 

[Paladin1001]

Ok that was my second guess, I knew it was an upper bolt. With a long ratcheting box end you can do both of those from the top but they still suck and the drivers side you can't even see you have to feel around for. Beats the three feet of extensions to get to it from atop the trans though. It's a shame your preferred shop let you down. Time to find a new one I guess.

As to your problem, please keep us posted as to what you find.

 

[A_+]

I will definitely post what I find when I find it.

 

[A_+]

Well, I decided to look at the mounts again. the motor mounts are in good shape but the bolt that sticks out the k member is sitting at the bottom. The previous owner shaved down the nubs or nipple that is on the mount ( I guess it holds its place) and that’s why the mount sits so low. I loosened the mount yesterday and jacked it up a bit so that it doesn’t sit at the very bottom and it appears that most of the noise has disappeared. It doesn’t rattle as much on the streets but I’m gonna see how it acts on the highway, tomorrow.

 

[A_+]

I don’t think this will ever go away. This is what it sounds like when I’m on the highway. The sound stops when I let off the gas and starts back up when I accelerate.

 

[dwcopple]

Yikes. Sounds like a door gunner opening up from a Blackhawk

 

[A_+]

I dropped my phone on the passenger side . That’s why it sounds so loud.

 

[dcm0123]

Sounds like something is way out of alignment on the drive train. Did you support it by the axle and run it as mentioned earlier? Apply the brakes while you accelerate to put stress on the axle. You do not need a fork truck, put 6 by 6 blocks of wood under the axle.

I would pull the driveshaft and check the U-joints to make sure they move freely. Could also be loose drive shaft to axle housing flange bolts.

Is there gear wine coming from the rear axle?

While you have it apart, put a pair of vice grips on the flange on the rear axle and see if there is any side play such as a bad pinion shaft bearing.

Is the rear axle control arm bushings and bolts in good condition? Did the point where the control arms mount to the car rust out or crack?

Does it only do it when you go around corners? Could be the spider gears in the rear end.

 

[A_+]

I did run it while suspended but didn’t apply the brakes [emoji848] it only does it under load or on the highway between 50-60mph. The sound is the only thing I hear. The gears and everything else sound fine.All suspension is new but the driveshaft was balanced a couple years ago. I took it to a DS shop and they didn’t pull it off the car but said it looked fine. I’m gonna hate wasting the money but I think I’m gonna go back and tell them to check it anyway. Is it possible that the pinion angle screwed with the u joints and ds? The previous owner shaved the nubs off the motor mounts causing the motor to sit lower and the trans was touching the car causing the shifter to sit crooked and ive been driving around like that. Also, The car is also lowered by a lot but I’ve recently replaced all mounts and even had to remove an intake spacer so the hood could close. Damn.... I’m gonna have to do it again and apply the brakes this time. Idk why I didn’t think of that!

 

[dcm0123]

This sounds like a problem associated with the drive shaft.
It is not a balance issue because it would not change with acceleration.

If it was just an alignment issue, you would hear the noise constantly. It is probably related to alignment but it is caused because something is moving out of alignment when you accelerate which means you have something loose. Could be transmission mount or differential arms.

Did someone replace the differential control arms? if so, did they install adjustable arms and realign the pinion angle? This should not go out of alignment unless there are adjustable arms which are set wrong.

Are the small quad shocks (differential dampers) in good shape? They could cause the problem if they go bad. They control differential pinion angle tilt when you accelerate hard.

Look above the drive shaft to see if the shaft is hitting the floor boards.

If you can not work on this yourself you should find another garage to do it. With a noise as bad as that, it should not be difficult for a good mechanic to solve.

If you want to try to fix it, check the drive shaft flange bolts to make sure they are tight. If it is, pull the shaft and rotate the joints while it is out to see if you feel rough bearings. When they assembled the shaft one of the roller bearings could have fallen out and be causing problems. I have seen cheap u-joints where the yoke is soft and quickly damaged by the roller bearings.

Check the flange on the differential for looseness while the shaft is out.

If you accelerate, can you see the gear shift lever moving? This would indicate a problem with the transmission or motor mount.

 

[A_+]

Non adjustable Upper and lower control arms were replaced a few yrs ago (5k miles ago) both engine and trans have have 50k and the Spec clutch had to be replaced last year.
Right, I don’t hear it constantly and it doesn’t make a sound when idling. I’ve switched out the trans mount twice and I have 2 that I’ve been rotating trying to figure out which one feels better. Also, I’m not running quad shocks, I didn’t think they mattered. Transmission shop said everything looked good too. I’ll probably replace the u joints.

 

[dcm0123]

Do not replace the U-joints unless you feel roughness. Do check the flange bolts to make sure they are tight and verify the driveshaft is not hitting the weight on the differential or the floor boards when the differential rotates upwards on acceleration.

I am not an expert but I would research the quad shocks more to find out if you should have them. Are the mounts still on the frame rail and in good shape? We have the Gabriel's which are out of stock at RA. If you have wide tires, you can reverse them so you have better tire clearance. My recollection was $30 each shock.

Again I am not an expert but quad shocks are supposed to dampen the differential when you accelerate as it tries to rotate which will change the pinion angle. Not sure but they may also limit the rotation for the differential- both up and down. If this is true, then it brings into question was your differential at the proper position when they adjusted the control arms to set the pinion angle?

It maybe interesting to put you foot on the brake and slowly release the clutch while someone watches the differential to see if it rotates thus changes the pinion angle. I would try it in forward and reverse

You may want to create a new posting and ask for other opinions on the shocks.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7621&cc=1430162&jsn=496

 

[A_+]

At this point , I’m willing to try anything! I’ll probably go with some KYB, they’re the cheapest. The DS spins well and the trans and DS were coming in contact with something but after switching out all mounts, everything else aligned better and didn’t come in contact with the DS.

 

[evilcw311]

Plenty of us have ran without quads for years with no issues and none have had anything like that sound. I’d say find the problem before spending money on something our cars never truly needed. They won’t solve your problem.

Your problem is rotational. It’s something spinning that is not being properly secured. That was obvious from the sound. Check the pinion shaft and look closely at the u joints. Might be a good idea to get the driveshaft checked but I’d be curious about the pinion angle myself as you had mentioned. If it’s off it can cause sounds like that cause the driveshaft is being forced to spin in a bind.


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[A_+]

Damn, I bet when the DS was balanced or when the clutch was replaced, it was clocked correctly. I wouldn’t know how to clock runout or measure pinion angle. The DS people said it looked fine but It kinda feels like it’s coming from the yoke . The DA was touching some cables and part of the body but that went away when I raised the engine with factory motor mounts as it also helped center the trans.

 

[dcm0123]

Has nothing to do with balance or clocking.
Did the person who put in the adjustable control arms adjust the pinion angle? If not, have someone check it.
Also verify the bolts on the control arms are tight.

 

[A_+]

Ok, thanks. Control arms are tight and I avoided putting anything adjustable on this car for that very reason, I didn’t want anything getting out of line. I had the car jacked up from the front and the trans WAS sitting a little more to the right until I fixed it by replacing the motor mounts but maybe due to the way I had it lifted,it looks as if the trans is touching up top now?!
The last trans shop I took it to, the guy said that my mount looked a little tall but I’ve already purchased 3 and they’re about the same size. My last option is to get one from Ford.

 

[A_+]

Idk where to go from here. Maybe it’s gears?

 

[A_+]

Shirley, someone recognizes this sound. (If the damn vids work)

 

[BigBore96]

I dont recognize the sound unfortunately.

Have you stuck a bar to your ear and stuck it on various places to narrow down where exactly the noise is from? Keep in mind if you do this be extra sure the car is secure and safe to do so.

You've damn near replaced everything that I wouldve looked at for the cause.

Could be a rear end but depending on damage inside the noises never are the same and generally youd feel a vibration.

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