Ultimate Budget 2v Motor

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 98snakehorse, May 26, 2016.

  1. 98snakehorse

    98snakehorse Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,710
    Likes Received:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    Location:
    Southeast, IA
    Alright everyone I know there are plenty of threads in relations to this post but I am wanting the most updated responses with the direction I am going in. This isnt something I plan on doing right away but its information I feel is important before I start throwing more power at my car. My current setup is a completely stock 02 PI 2v longblock, boltons and a blower. Car is making right around 400rwhp. Plans are to go intercooled and start cranking the boost up but really not wanting to put much more stress on these stock internals and ruin this 2v block.

    So here is my plan. I want to build a very budget oriented 2v. I have a good NPI shortblock sitting in the corner of my shop and was thinking of building it up or even my current PI block. My goal is to get the car up to 600hp down the road. Im just going to make a bullet point of questions below here....



    • Will the cast romeo block be able to handle it or will I need to go teksid? Really dont want to source other blocks.
    • Will the stock crank be able to handle the power? Heard they can take quite a bit of abuse.
    • Will boss rods work in both the NPI or PI 2v's? I heard they are quite a cheap alternative and can handle some power.
    • Whats the best budget friendly pistons to go with?

    I guess me who has never built an engine before am missing quite a few things that will need to be purchased but that is why i posting these questions. Figured it would make more since to have a stout engine before I go throwing lethal pressure into a glass house 2v lol. Thanks for all the help.
     
  2. Thomas_W

    Thomas_W Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,478
    Likes Received:
    44
    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2007
    Location:
    Capon Bridge, WV
    The stock block and crank should be OK around 600. I believe that is pretty close to the limit of the cast crank though.

    The MMR 600/750SE rotating assemblies are pretty good deals IMO. The 600 uses a stock cast crank, so you could potentially purchase it without the crank for less.

    If you can find a set of 03/04 cobra rods/pistons for a good deal and in good condition, thats a viable option as well.
     
  3. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

    Messages:
    5,659
    Likes Received:
    678
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2014
    Location:
    South Mississippi
    Ive never heard of anyone overpowering a stock cast crankshaft. They are lighter than forged and will hold plenty of power. The boss rods will work in all the 4.6L applications and the way I understand it, they will hold 600-700 (Dont quote me on that). Ive also not heard of anyone over powering a stock block. Lots of guys run 800+ Hp with the stock iron block.
     
  4. 98snakehorse

    98snakehorse Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,710
    Likes Received:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    Location:
    Southeast, IA
    Awesome, so what is the process to this then. Buy Boss Rods, some good pistons and have a machine shop clean my current block and reinstall? Would love to put an engine together myself.
     
  5. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

    Messages:
    5,659
    Likes Received:
    678
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2014
    Location:
    South Mississippi
    Order all your parts, bolts, bearing, rods, pistons, rings, and all the gaskets. If your bores are nice you dont need a machine shop for the block. Then put it all together.
     
  6. 98snakehorse

    98snakehorse Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,710
    Likes Received:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    Location:
    Southeast, IA
    Not even joking I will continue this thread for awhile then. I think I found my next project. Building an extreme budget 2v. Will either be intercooling and downsizing pulleys on my blower or go turbo. I think the first thing to be done is building the engine and converting the differential to a locker and all 31 spline.
     
  7. 98snakehorse

    98snakehorse Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,710
    Likes Received:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    Location:
    Southeast, IA
    I will start adding part#'s for reference...

    Boss Connecting Rods = CR3Z6200B
     
  8. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

    Messages:
    5,659
    Likes Received:
    678
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2014
    Location:
    South Mississippi
    I put a linbk up for the boss rods in one of these other threads. If you want me to paste it here I will.
     
  9. 98snakehorse

    98snakehorse Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,710
    Likes Received:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    Location:
    Southeast, IA
    That would be great, if you have a good link to bearing part #'s that will help aswell. I think I am going to be building up the NPI block and throwing on a set of PI heads & Cams
     
  10. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

    Messages:
    5,659
    Likes Received:
    678
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2014
    Location:
    South Mississippi
  11. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

    Messages:
    5,659
    Likes Received:
    678
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2014
    Location:
    South Mississippi
  12. DropTopPony

    DropTopPony Administrator Staff Member Admin SN95 Supporter

    Messages:
    15,342
    Likes Received:
    119
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2006
    Location:
    South Jersey
    Too bad there isn't a solid budget piston like the boss rods.

    When you order the Boss rods from the Ford dealer you can tell them that you need bolt/gaskets for a rebuild. Most of the stuff is TTY but if you are only building for 600hp you don't need to spend all that extra on ARP. Stock Ford replacement bolts are not bad unless you want to go over 600, MMR offers their own bolts that are between Ford and ARP in price.
     
  13. vermilion

    vermilion Legend

    Messages:
    6,300
    Likes Received:
    153
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2007
    Location:
    maryland
    if you pony up the coin for any rotating assembly 1. dont use the 750se. you are limited to buying an oil pump exclusively from MMR. 2. Modmax, CMS and MHS is a better idea.... any stock blocks will hold you. cast cranks do not fail at a certain HP/TQ rating. Piss poor engine harmonics at higher RPMS will kill it. it mainly kills the Oil pump. any Yote rod will work for your 4.6. don't let the negative stigma of a 2V get to you. they can do work.
     
  14. Thomas_W

    Thomas_W Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,478
    Likes Received:
    44
    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2007
    Location:
    Capon Bridge, WV
    where do you see the 750SE havint to use a MMR exclusive oil pump? Last i saw, the Ford Racing pump was pretty commonly abailable from multiple vendors.
     
  15. 98snakehorse

    98snakehorse Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,710
    Likes Received:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    Location:
    Southeast, IA
    Great info, Yeah looks like the pistons will be the high portion price of all of this. Unless I kind find a good conditioned termi set of pistons.
     
  16. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

    Messages:
    7,482
    Likes Received:
    796
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2011
    Location:
    Ky
    Or a set of lightning pistons.
     
  17. 98snakehorse

    98snakehorse Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,710
    Likes Received:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    Location:
    Southeast, IA
    So I began tearing down the old NPI spare block I have, all the internals looked to be in great shape for 140+k on the engine. Main bearing and rod bearings looked great with very minimal scaring. Bores are in great shape too just need to clean the crap out of the block.

    So here is a list of parts with pricing I have. Let me know of any major things you see I missed. I still dont know what I am doing for pistons but am budgeting about $650 for whatever it is I go with it will need to be for a factory bore npi 4.6 . Also what thickness HG should I go with? Setup will be a NPI block with PI heads and boost.

    Item Price
    Boss Rods $180
    Main Studs $115
    Head Steads $280
    Main Bearings $115
    Rod Bearings $110
    Cometic HG $118
    Pistons $650
     
  18. Nighttrain

    Nighttrain Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,429
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2016
    Location:
    Atglen pennsylvania
    What cr do you want? 10:1, 10.5:1 will benifit boost but you might be limited to how much you put to it. The thicker the gasket the lower the cr.
     
  19. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

    Messages:
    7,482
    Likes Received:
    796
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2011
    Location:
    Ky
    You also didnt figure in the price for piston rings. Youre gonna want good ones... $200

    I suggest a thicker head gasket for forced induction, but the stock is fine. Lots of forved induction folks have great luck with felpro headgaskets
     
  20. 98snakehorse

    98snakehorse Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,710
    Likes Received:
    195
    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2011
    Location:
    Southeast, IA
    Im not 100% sure dont want too much compression but enough for that happy medium.

    Thanks yes I kind of added that on, I was looking over on modmaxracing at their product line. Couldnt find much info on other aftermarket pistons. It was around 650 or so with their ring set for the forged piston assembly. No idea of their quality just a short search.