Universal Wiring Harness

99GreenStang

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Okay so I had to do the dreaded heater core replacement. I started yesterday evening and worked for 2-3 hours and finished this morning. Now seeing how most of you know my car is modified I decided to use this opportunity to clean up wiring and run it neatly and efficiently. I've got the whole dash out of the car right now and I am contemplating just buying a universal wiring harness maybe something like a Painless universal wiring harness and just doing that. The problem I seem to run into is this I want my power windows and power locks to work. I don't see that painless offers a kit that has the option for power windows. Can someone more experienced in electrical systems help me out on this please. Oh for the record who evers design it was to have to take the dash out to change the heater core should be tied a horse and dragged through the Sahara just another failing design I guess though. Anyways any help is appreciated! Thanks!


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99GreenStang

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2ab40989384d4229f7fbe9a9116dfc97.jpg
isn't it just so beautiful? Almost brings a tear to my eye...of frustration!


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DeepList

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Been there... done that.... TWICE. I feel your pain...

Changing the heater core in my old 87 Ranger through the glove box opening was SOOO much easier.
 

ttocs

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both the locks and the windows run what is called a 5-wire reversing polarity system. its great for ford because they don't need relays but for you in this case it means rather then having 4 wires to worry about you have 10. Worst case scenario its just wire that needs to be extended.
 

99GreenStang

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I wonder if there is a universal kit that includes wiring for power windows and power locks? I mean in reality it's just something that needs power and a ground right?


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99GreenStang

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By the way thanks for replying as well! And yeah the glove box drop down to change the heater core is what they should have done to these cars! I should have just bypassed it instead of doing all this! But the only positive I guess is at least I'll be able to route and sort wiring any way I want it now. I just don't know if I'll ever get this thing back together.

Also kinda off topic but does anyone have one of those gauge clusters that autometer makes that you can put your aftermarket gauges in that takes the place of your factory gauges in your car. If anyone has one of these that their not using anymore I'll buy it.


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ttocs

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if all you do is supply power to the stock lock and window switches you will still need the stock 5-wire wiring that goes from drivers to pass side if you expect to operate the pass side window/lock from the drivers side, which is kinda the point right? That would mean either remove the 10 wires from the stock harness, running your own wires from the drivers door to the passenger side, or replace almost the entire switch system and run your own wires.
 

JKady

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If you want to clean things up buy a set of pin tools and de-pin the wires you no longer want from connectors. It'll be easier than installing a full aftermarket harness if you want to keep the stock gauges, HVAC and doors/locks working.
 

99GreenStang

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I don't run stock gauges. Don't have air anymore. It's basically a drag car on the street.

I think the Procomp universal wiring harness I provided the link to thats on Ebay is a good route to go. It says it can run power windows and power locks and is the only universal wiring harness I have seen that mentions being able to run power windows and power locks.

What's y'all's opinion on going this route?

Thanks


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chris91

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I would change out the tan interior while you have the dash out! :D My old Electric Green 99 had it and I couldnt stand it.
 

ttocs

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if you want to integrate that system into the stock 5-wire window/lock system, you will still need to figure out the 10 wires that go between the drivers/pass side to make sure they are ran or you will not have control of the passenger side. The other option is to rewire it to a 2-wire relay driven system.

Is this to save weight on street driven drag car? If so I don't see it increasing your times much considering how many hours it will take to install it.
 

99GreenStang

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No this is not to save weight lol. It's simply to clean up the wiring and the fact that I don't know if I could ever get the dash back in and get everything connected where it goes again.

Plus I don't use anything that's factory to the car anyways. I don't need the factory gauges to work. I don't have air although I do want heat to work. Transmission has its own controller. The headlights, taillights and turn signals along with the wipers and power windows and power locks is all I need to work.

Would buying the procomp universal wiring harness on eBay for 160 be worth it? I mean I honestly don't see how Painless wiring could be worth the extra 400-500 dollars. I mean it's just wire right?
 

mcglsr2

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On the Painless Wiring vs the eBay one - it really depends. Painless is a good quality company - you'll get good AWG wires with them. I don't know about the eBay kit. Nor do I know what comes with the eBay kit. You'll get Peace of Mind with the Painless kit. If that's really too much money to swallow, try out the eBay kit but be prepared to provide your own wire and I would inspect the amount of copper in each wire (AWG) closely before using it.

On the gauge cluster, I use the Auto Meter one that has a space for a speedo and tach. Not wanting to sell it, just saying that's what I'm using and I'm very happy with it.

Regarding the windows, the easiest to maintain would be the one ttocs mentioned using 2 wires that go to relays. But you'll have to add relays. The stock Ford one basically "starts" at the driver side switch, runs to the passenger side switch, THEN runs to the motors in each door. It's a fairly convoluted wiring path - you can either use the existing wires and add your own switches if you want, or you can just replace all the wire and run your own. Or run your own "system" using the relays. It's really up to you, and as ttocs mentioned, depends on the return on investment into wiring the thing up. I am replacing the stock switches with my own - I have opted to use the existing wires and make my switches work as I really don't feel like re-wiring stuff at this point.
 

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