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Post Whore
I thought about it but I followed the stock routing myself
Unorthodoxsn95 (2023 Updates, now with more turbo boost and finally a hood)
- Thread starter 50HSN95
- Start date
Main reason I ran them as I did was track rules. The way I read it the NHRA rule book does not allow for non stock lines to be routed in the drive shaft tunnel unless they are the "factory routing", or factory lines. I know not all drag strips look that close in tech, but better in this case to just follow the rules.
Probably an obvious thought but I think if you do just keep them on the inside of the SFC's in-case you get smoked from the side, to help reduce the likelihood of a fuel or fire disaster. Yeah there is a risk of them getting snagged on something you may come across while tooling down the road, but with as non stock as this car is now, hell anything could happen
Speaking of such, I need to order a fire extinguisher.
Ok, after getting in and out of the car a few times with the top up I decided that crap of squeezing around the wheel with the top up aint going to fly. Even with the tilt up it is a pain to get around, and my wife wont even try.
I don't want to have a damn confined space entry permit to get into my car LOL.
So, solved that issue today. I ordered a new Race Craft Inc. steering wheel adapter and Grant steering wheel from RCi. Here is the adapter:
https://www.racecraft.com/steering-...g-5-bolt-quick-release-adaptor-kit-p-161.html
I have picked up a few steering parts from them recently and quality is, well, race car quality. Be nice to get the wheel back a few inches also. With this I think I'm going to move my Sniper EFI display to the column and get it a bit closer to my face.
Detachable wheel and a tilt column should solve my entry exit issues.
**Edit: Forgot to add, for those people that live in Minnesota, they are a MN company so if you need something, it is good to support local if possible.
Disclaimer: I was not paid by anyone, just try as much as possible to buy / promote local**
I don't want to have a damn confined space entry permit to get into my car LOL.
So, solved that issue today. I ordered a new Race Craft Inc. steering wheel adapter and Grant steering wheel from RCi. Here is the adapter:
https://www.racecraft.com/steering-...g-5-bolt-quick-release-adaptor-kit-p-161.html
I have picked up a few steering parts from them recently and quality is, well, race car quality. Be nice to get the wheel back a few inches also. With this I think I'm going to move my Sniper EFI display to the column and get it a bit closer to my face.
Detachable wheel and a tilt column should solve my entry exit issues.
**Edit: Forgot to add, for those people that live in Minnesota, they are a MN company so if you need something, it is good to support local if possible.
Disclaimer: I was not paid by anyone, just try as much as possible to buy / promote local
**
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Boostr1
Active Member
What I did with my Return line.
Main reason I ran them as I did was track rules. The way I read it the NHRA rule book does not allow for non stock lines to be routed in the drive shaft tunnel unless they are the "factory routing", or factory lines. I know not all drag strips look that close in tech, but better in this case to just follow the rules.
Probably an obvious thought but I think if you do just keep them on the inside of the SFC's in-case you get smoked from the side, to help reduce the likelihood of a fuel or fire disaster. Yeah there is a risk of them getting snagged on something you may come across while tooling down the road, but with as non stock as this car is now, hell anything could happen
Speaking of such, I need to order a fire extinguisher.
I can see that if your gonna do alot of track time, and especially with your build. Looks like your gonna be doing a lot of racing. The track I go to only check for certain things like your helmet, and if your running power adders a driveshaft loop, fire proof jacket and gloves. And I will not be going to tha track regularly.
Steering wheel installed, and Sniper display moved, much better, and a hell of a lot easier to get in and out of the car.
Wheel and clock spring removed and horn wiring re routed. I still have to install a momentary contact switch for the horn but have to find one that looks nice:
I took and cut some cardboard out to figure out what my cover needed to look like. I told my daughter when she asked that this was what I was going to use and just paint it, she asked if the heat was getting to me :
So I forgot to take pictures of the plexi-glass but it was just 3/8" sheet I picked up from the hardware store, cut it out, sanded it down, drilled holes, and painted it:
The hub kit from Racecraft is pretty darn nice, all hardware packaged nice, and everything was packed in some pretty heavy foam paper. The wheel is a 13" Grant with spots for momentary switches on either side. Be nice for down the road with either a trans brake or maybe use them for the manutronic shift feature in the trans controller:
And the final install, parts all fit nice, and it brought the wheel back about 3" like advertised. After I was done took it for a drive, having the display down near the wheel is perfect, much better than having in on the dash:
Something interesting to note:
I have been trying to track down a shake / shimmy that occurred at roughly 50 MPH in the front of this car for years. I have virtually replaced and balanced everything that might have or could have caused it and the shake was still there. Even had the car aligned multiple times, and as I know now, incorrectly.
I'm willing to bet this info is out there somewhere and I just did not use the correct search verbiage to find it, but if anyone else has a strange shake they cannot get rid of it is likely in the alignment, specifically toe.
I found this out on my car totally by accident. I was tinkering with the toe and trying to get the wheel straight I ended up with both wheels toed in on the front and went for a drive, vibration was gone. Thinking it was a fluke I got home, took the toe out, went for a drive and the shake was back again! After spending most of the morning setting the toe in and out I figured out that the front of this car needs just a slight bit of toe in the front to eliminate the shake.
I fought with this for years and never figured it out until now, wish I would have figured this out sooner, but again for those that might have a shake they cannot shake, it might be something worth looking into. Now I still have to have the car professionally aligned but I will make sure to have them set the toe as close to it is now, and get some numbers to share when it is done.
I know that is not super numbers technical, but it was some solid process of elimination.
Wheel and clock spring removed and horn wiring re routed. I still have to install a momentary contact switch for the horn but have to find one that looks nice:
I took and cut some cardboard out to figure out what my cover needed to look like. I told my daughter when she asked that this was what I was going to use and just paint it, she asked if the heat was getting to me
:
So I forgot to take pictures of the plexi-glass but it was just 3/8" sheet I picked up from the hardware store, cut it out, sanded it down, drilled holes, and painted it:
The hub kit from Racecraft is pretty darn nice, all hardware packaged nice, and everything was packed in some pretty heavy foam paper. The wheel is a 13" Grant with spots for momentary switches on either side. Be nice for down the road with either a trans brake or maybe use them for the manutronic shift feature in the trans controller:
And the final install, parts all fit nice, and it brought the wheel back about 3" like advertised. After I was done took it for a drive, having the display down near the wheel is perfect, much better than having in on the dash:
Something interesting to note:
I have been trying to track down a shake / shimmy that occurred at roughly 50 MPH in the front of this car for years. I have virtually replaced and balanced everything that might have or could have caused it and the shake was still there. Even had the car aligned multiple times, and as I know now, incorrectly.
I'm willing to bet this info is out there somewhere and I just did not use the correct search verbiage to find it, but if anyone else has a strange shake they cannot get rid of it is likely in the alignment, specifically toe.
I found this out on my car totally by accident. I was tinkering with the toe and trying to get the wheel straight I ended up with both wheels toed in on the front and went for a drive, vibration was gone. Thinking it was a fluke I got home, took the toe out, went for a drive and the shake was back again! After spending most of the morning setting the toe in and out I figured out that the front of this car needs just a slight bit of toe in the front to eliminate the shake.
I fought with this for years and never figured it out until now, wish I would have figured this out sooner, but again for those that might have a shake they cannot shake, it might be something worth looking into. Now I still have to have the car professionally aligned but I will make sure to have them set the toe as close to it is now, and get some numbers to share when it is done.
I know that is not super numbers technical, but it was some solid process of elimination.
Some random updates:
Been taken away from tinkering recently as my wife and I bought a pop-up camper. Good investment as the kids really enjoy it a lot!
Flex makes an awesome tow rig by the way....
Gotten a few miles on the car and have been spending time narrowing down the tune. I think I have it pretty good at this point. After start fueling, and accel fueling have been my biggest stumbling blocks. I have been slowly bumping up the RPM's and shift points but have stopped at a 6500 rpm shift point until I can get it on a dyno and see what it is actually doing. I may end up having someone smarter than me finalize the tuning as I know there is more left on the table hiding in the tune.
I have a rough idea of what it is making for horse power right now though. At the 1 to 2 shift point it logged 96kpa, 53.8% injector duty cycle, TPS at 98%, and at 6495 rpm (shift point) it is commanding 222.5 lbs (37.60 gallons) per hour of fuel. I know it is not an exact science and I have no hard numbers until I get it on the rollers, but that should be in the 460-470 fly wheel horse range using the calculation: HP = TE x Fuel Flow (GPH) x 44.2. I used a TE or thermal efficiency of .283 or 28.3%. I know there is more RPM left in it also, but again, wait for dyno and see.
If one is really bored there is a lot of fun math I used found here:
https://performancedevelopments.com/fuel-flow-calculations-for-horsepower/
And if you are really bored you can check my math to see what I screwed up.
For those that may have ever looked at or though about an aftermarket controller for the transmission, and you entertained U.S. Shift......DO IT! This controller is wildly entertaining! I have my controller set in a mode where it activates and de-activates in the mid gear ranges from 2nd to 4th. The sequence is:
1st, shift to 2nd, TQ locks, unlocks and transitions to 3rd, locks again, and then transitions to 4th and so on up to 65% TPS and moves out of the mid gear strategy above 65% to WOT. Its funny to hear and AODE "shift" so many times while just cruising around. It acts similar to a 6 speed. In 3rd and 4th with the converter locked and duty cycle (slip) turned up it behaves like a stick with the entire drive train locked together in 3rd (1:1) and 4th.
Needless to say it makes driving more entertaining, and a bit violent at times. No it is not a stock AODE though, fair amount of aftermarket parts in it. I'm hoping to get it to the track here in October.
I was able to get the car on a scale finally, just used the local CAT scale as I really wanted to know what it weighed, well, here it is, and not too bad for a convertible:
This is with a full tank of fuel, no hood, and just a few panels missing from the interior. With me in it the car should be ~3335 lbs. Not bad again for having an 8pt roll bar, and some way overkill under body supports. Drag weight with a 1/4 tank of fuel and me in the car should be in the high 3200 lb range as it sits. I'm excited to get it to the track to see if it will hook, weight should give it a conservative mid 11 second 1/4 mile.
And to end then my long winded, probably BS laced yapping.........'MERICA!
**edited the last line for spelling**
Been taken away from tinkering recently as my wife and I bought a pop-up camper. Good investment as the kids really enjoy it a lot!
Flex makes an awesome tow rig by the way....
Gotten a few miles on the car and have been spending time narrowing down the tune. I think I have it pretty good at this point. After start fueling, and accel fueling have been my biggest stumbling blocks. I have been slowly bumping up the RPM's and shift points but have stopped at a 6500 rpm shift point until I can get it on a dyno and see what it is actually doing. I may end up having someone smarter than me finalize the tuning as I know there is more left on the table hiding in the tune.
I have a rough idea of what it is making for horse power right now though. At the 1 to 2 shift point it logged 96kpa, 53.8% injector duty cycle, TPS at 98%, and at 6495 rpm (shift point) it is commanding 222.5 lbs (37.60 gallons) per hour of fuel. I know it is not an exact science and I have no hard numbers until I get it on the rollers, but that should be in the 460-470 fly wheel horse range using the calculation: HP = TE x Fuel Flow (GPH) x 44.2. I used a TE or thermal efficiency of .283 or 28.3%. I know there is more RPM left in it also, but again, wait for dyno and see.
If one is really bored there is a lot of fun math I used found here:
https://performancedevelopments.com/fuel-flow-calculations-for-horsepower/
And if you are really bored you can check my math to see what I screwed up.
For those that may have ever looked at or though about an aftermarket controller for the transmission, and you entertained U.S. Shift......DO IT! This controller is wildly entertaining! I have my controller set in a mode where it activates and de-activates in the mid gear ranges from 2nd to 4th. The sequence is:
1st, shift to 2nd, TQ locks, unlocks and transitions to 3rd, locks again, and then transitions to 4th and so on up to 65% TPS and moves out of the mid gear strategy above 65% to WOT. Its funny to hear and AODE "shift" so many times while just cruising around. It acts similar to a 6 speed. In 3rd and 4th with the converter locked and duty cycle (slip) turned up it behaves like a stick with the entire drive train locked together in 3rd (1:1) and 4th.
Needless to say it makes driving more entertaining, and a bit violent at times. No it is not a stock AODE though, fair amount of aftermarket parts in it. I'm hoping to get it to the track here in October.
I was able to get the car on a scale finally, just used the local CAT scale as I really wanted to know what it weighed, well, here it is, and not too bad for a convertible:
This is with a full tank of fuel, no hood, and just a few panels missing from the interior. With me in it the car should be ~3335 lbs. Not bad again for having an 8pt roll bar, and some way overkill under body supports. Drag weight with a 1/4 tank of fuel and me in the car should be in the high 3200 lb range as it sits. I'm excited to get it to the track to see if it will hook, weight should give it a conservative mid 11 second 1/4 mile.
And to end then my long winded, probably BS laced yapping.........'MERICA!
**edited the last line for spelling**
Last edited:
Cause I'm bored and am in a sharing mood also today
So I removed the aluminum intake elbow and tube about a month or so ago. I was having some odd idle and part throttle tip in issues. That damn elbow appears to have been causing some air flow issues. I ended up going with the first carb style intake that I had and it cleared up the problems I was having.
The airflow on this intake is significantly cleaner I think than the elbow I had with the weird lip at the front. Think this has helped out a lot.
I'm planning on wrapping the whole thing with the gold crap, it is nothing other than looks cool and helps with idle and low speed air temps. At speed, the MAT's are dead on at ambient.
And a random shot of her out enjoying the sun!
So I removed the aluminum intake elbow and tube about a month or so ago. I was having some odd idle and part throttle tip in issues. That damn elbow appears to have been causing some air flow issues. I ended up going with the first carb style intake that I had and it cleared up the problems I was having.
The airflow on this intake is significantly cleaner I think than the elbow I had with the weird lip at the front. Think this has helped out a lot.
I'm planning on wrapping the whole thing with the gold crap, it is nothing other than looks cool and helps with idle and low speed air temps. At speed, the MAT's are dead on at ambient.
And a random shot of her out enjoying the sun!
Let me start this off with this winter seems like it has been longer than anything I can remember, and maybe it is because I have not done any car stuff, and was Jonsing for garage time.
After identifying a small coolant leak on the back of the intake last fall on my car I parked it, as I had a lot of other things to take care of. Finally tore into it this week, and was not pleased. But have some fun changes coming!
So after some diagnostics (including a barrage of colorful metaphors) I was able to isolate the problem. I discovered I should not have pissed away time or money on the cheap assed copy of the Parker Funnel Web that I used (Speedmaster through Jegs). This boat anchor intake is highly suspect to be causing a lot of my sporadic idle and part throttle issues. I don't have any close up pics however the manifold had cracks on the inside bases of the two rear runners, and a hairline crack on the back driver side that is causing the coolant leak. I thought at first it was just me goofing up in installing the gaskets or something. Nope, intake has more cracks in it than a plumbers convention.
Ok, done beating myself up about that one. I decided to go the same different direction as this entire project has gone. I ordered a Holley Hi Ram intake for the 8.2 deck. The lower intake is not here yet however I do have the lid, and have started modifying the blank lid for my Holley Sniper EFI.
First off yes, I am going to run just one EFI unit. I spent a lot of time talking with Holley about one vs. two as this effectively is a tunnel ram. Holley techs assured me that there would be no distribution issues with the TBI EFI Sniper unit primarily due to the design of the plenum with the blank that I am using, and the intake itself. I'll take their word and see how it goes. As I am running a Holley DS distributor already there will be no clearance issues there either, again according to measurements and Holley Techs.
So, I am going to try the old cast intake tube also, as after seeing all of the cracks in my old PFW copy I think that might be more of my issues than the cast intake tube I was using. Here is a shot of the EFI unit with the cast elbow and the new Holley Hi Ram intake plenum top blank:
Now, first off, this thing is going to be TALL! The intake is 8.30" from the china rail to the plenum base. The plenum lid is about 3.5" tall. It is almost a foot from the rail to the lid! then another almost foot to the top of the cast intake tube. I think I might just skip the hood at this point LOL. Not sure yet though. I'm sure most know what it looks like, but here is a stock image of the intake:
Should look good on the motor! Will it work? Pfftt, who knows. Find out in the spring when I finally can get it on a dyno for tuning.
So now she sits all opened up. Pluses are that I have not seen anything out of the ordinary with the valve train, or anything else that looks amiss. I'll drop some pics once I get the intake, I'm anxious as hell to see how it looks. I do know I will have to port it a bit as the intake runners are smaller than the intake ports on the RHS heads. Have to measure everything once I actually have it in my hands.
After identifying a small coolant leak on the back of the intake last fall on my car I parked it, as I had a lot of other things to take care of. Finally tore into it this week, and was not pleased. But have some fun changes coming!
So after some diagnostics (including a barrage of colorful metaphors) I was able to isolate the problem. I discovered I should not have pissed away time or money on the cheap assed copy of the Parker Funnel Web that I used (Speedmaster through Jegs). This boat anchor intake is highly suspect to be causing a lot of my sporadic idle and part throttle issues. I don't have any close up pics however the manifold had cracks on the inside bases of the two rear runners, and a hairline crack on the back driver side that is causing the coolant leak. I thought at first it was just me goofing up in installing the gaskets or something. Nope, intake has more cracks in it than a plumbers convention.
Ok, done beating myself up about that one. I decided to go the same different direction as this entire project has gone. I ordered a Holley Hi Ram intake for the 8.2 deck. The lower intake is not here yet however I do have the lid, and have started modifying the blank lid for my Holley Sniper EFI.
First off yes, I am going to run just one EFI unit. I spent a lot of time talking with Holley about one vs. two as this effectively is a tunnel ram. Holley techs assured me that there would be no distribution issues with the TBI EFI Sniper unit primarily due to the design of the plenum with the blank that I am using, and the intake itself. I'll take their word and see how it goes. As I am running a Holley DS distributor already there will be no clearance issues there either, again according to measurements and Holley Techs.
So, I am going to try the old cast intake tube also, as after seeing all of the cracks in my old PFW copy I think that might be more of my issues than the cast intake tube I was using. Here is a shot of the EFI unit with the cast elbow and the new Holley Hi Ram intake plenum top blank:
Now, first off, this thing is going to be TALL! The intake is 8.30" from the china rail to the plenum base. The plenum lid is about 3.5" tall. It is almost a foot from the rail to the lid! then another almost foot to the top of the cast intake tube. I think I might just skip the hood at this point LOL. Not sure yet though. I'm sure most know what it looks like, but here is a stock image of the intake:
Should look good on the motor! Will it work? Pfftt, who knows. Find out in the spring when I finally can get it on a dyno for tuning.
So now she sits all opened up. Pluses are that I have not seen anything out of the ordinary with the valve train, or anything else that looks amiss. I'll drop some pics once I get the intake, I'm anxious as hell to see how it looks. I do know I will have to port it a bit as the intake runners are smaller than the intake ports on the RHS heads. Have to measure everything once I actually have it in my hands.
After some research, and talking to my engine builder, below is what is going to need to be done to reduce plenum volume and keep air speeds up to the outer cylinders. Basically need to give is a pyramidal shape.
Going to take this to the machine shop on my days off this week and have the ends machined off, then going to cut the aluminum to be welded on to complete the taper. Going to put a .5" HVH Super Sucker spacer on top also and then cut that transition to have a nice taper under the lid. The lid plate is .5" also so using the spacer should give a nice 1" transition.
I'll post pics as it progresses. I'm going to eventually run some giggle gas on this as well, and the large flat spots on the intake when its done should leave a nice space for a spring loaded burst panel. If it is tune correctly, that should not be needed, but what the hell, safety.
Going to take this to the machine shop on my days off this week and have the ends machined off, then going to cut the aluminum to be welded on to complete the taper. Going to put a .5" HVH Super Sucker spacer on top also and then cut that transition to have a nice taper under the lid. The lid plate is .5" also so using the spacer should give a nice 1" transition.
I'll post pics as it progresses. I'm going to eventually run some giggle gas on this as well, and the large flat spots on the intake when its done should leave a nice space for a spring loaded burst panel. If it is tune correctly, that should not be needed, but what the hell, safety.
Unrelated, here is my new tow vehicle for our camper, and eventually when I pick up a car trailer the Mustang.
2016 F150 XLT 2.7 EB, tow package, 6 speed, low miles. 5 Star 87 tow, 91 performance and 93 performance tunes. Currently running the 91 with 92 octane fuel. What a riot! Definitely does not get up and go like any truck I have been used to in the past, she scoots!
I have done some minor mods with Forscan already, like Bambi, LED swap, and a few audio items. I also added the tow mirrors that came off of an 18, but still need to finish wiring the puddle, spot, and parking lights. Blinkers work though. Wheels are 18" Raceline from Discount Tire. Going to pick up the "DOOD" grill for it this spring and have the surround painted to match the body color, as well as the FORD letters. I got rid of all the darn stickers also, I'm not a sticker fan.
This is the first truck I have ever owned and I am not disappointed. I should have just bought a truck in the first place, when I purchased my Fusion, but live and learn I guess.
2016 F150 XLT 2.7 EB, tow package, 6 speed, low miles. 5 Star 87 tow, 91 performance and 93 performance tunes. Currently running the 91 with 92 octane fuel. What a riot! Definitely does not get up and go like any truck I have been used to in the past, she scoots!
I have done some minor mods with Forscan already, like Bambi, LED swap, and a few audio items. I also added the tow mirrors that came off of an 18, but still need to finish wiring the puddle, spot, and parking lights. Blinkers work though. Wheels are 18" Raceline from Discount Tire. Going to pick up the "DOOD" grill for it this spring and have the surround painted to match the body color, as well as the FORD letters. I got rid of all the darn stickers also, I'm not a sticker fan.
This is the first truck I have ever owned and I am not disappointed. I should have just bought a truck in the first place, when I purchased my Fusion, but live and learn I guess.
Forscan.. I still need to do this and I’ve had mine since 2016
Nice rig bro, the little EB packs a punch.
Nice rig bro, the little EB packs a punch.
Frank.JD.Perez
Legend
wut
Forscan.. I still need to do this and I’ve had mine since 2016
Nice rig bro, the little EB packs a punch.
Thanks! It is totally worth the time to learn it. There is a lot of little things that you can change, personalize, and improve on. Audio was big for me, switching the audio settings at "un muddy" the factory non-Sony audio really made listening better. I eventually am going to upgrade the speakers and add a sub (mine has the 1212 plug for a sub) but there is some welcome changes that can be made.
I have the 8" display and was able to enable Apple Car Play also after swapping out the USB port for the updated one. Lots of fun stuff!
Boostr1
Active Member
Unrelated, here is my new tow vehicle for our camper, and eventually when I pick up a car trailer the Mustang.
2016 F150 XLT 2.7 EB, tow package, 6 speed, low miles. 5 Star 87 tow, 91 performance and 93 performance tunes. Currently running the 91 with 92 octane fuel. What a riot! Definitely does not get up and go like any truck I have been used to in the past, she scoots!
I have done some minor mods with Forscan already, like Bambi, LED swap, and a few audio items. I also added the tow mirrors that came off of an 18, but still need to finish wiring the puddle, spot, and parking lights. Blinkers work though. Wheels are 18" Raceline from Discount Tire. Going to pick up the "DOOD" grill for it this spring and have the surround painted to match the body color, as well as the FORD letters. I got rid of all the darn stickers also, I'm not a sticker fan.
This is the first truck I have ever owned and I am not disappointed. I should have just bought a truck in the first place, when I purchased my Fusion, but live and learn I guess.
NOOICE,
Took mine to the dealer Friday because my oil pan and the cold side of the drivers side turbo were wet. Received a call today and they found the timing cover leaking. Glad I signed up for Premium Extended Care plan when I bought the truck. So I'm gonna wait till my extended warranty is done before I start retuning mine. I think it's done July of 2022. What is BAMBI mode?
Well, it came, and was promptly returned. The distributor did not clear the intake as Holley engineers thought it would. I could not even set the intake down on the motor to see if the ports would like up as the edges of the casting hit the sides of my RHS distributor heads.
Needless to say I was bummed, and rather than turn a $500 intake into a $1,000 plus dollar maybe it will work project I decided to cut my losses and return it. Bummer......
It sure as hell looked cool, but that was about it:
Needless to say I was bummed, and rather than turn a $500 intake into a $1,000 plus dollar maybe it will work project I decided to cut my losses and return it. Bummer......
It sure as hell looked cool, but that was about it:
Well shit.
Dude! Why not go to coil packs and keep the intake?
joemomma
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Unrelated, but Forscan is really cool. I've done the Bambi headlight mod (also the H9/11 conversion) and a couple other things audio-system related.
I thought about that but the Sniper will not run a COP system and control ignition unfortunately. It would have worked if the Sniper could as the Holley blank cap would have fit. Lame.
My thoughts exactly, I was pretty excited about the intake, until I got it. Between having to machine the side rails and either customizing the front of it, or having to purchase a new distributor it was just not worth it unfortunately. I actually liked the Funnel Web from a performance standpoint. Might just see if I can get a better copy and try again. Spring is neigh so I need to something soon.
Sorry I missed this. Bambi mode allows you to run the fog's, low's and high beams all at once when the high beams are activated. Normally the fog lights are disabled when the high beam circuit is activated but Bambi mode allows you to run them all at the same time. Switching to LED's and the light output is pretty amazing.
Was the timing chain cover leak on the pass side? I guess that is pretty common for the 2.7.
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