Boostr1
Active Member
The leak was on the drivers side
Unorthodoxsn95 (2023 Updates, now with more turbo boost and finally a hood)
- Thread starter 50HSN95
- Start date
Copy that.
Feel free to poke fun at me but.........
After spending the week looking around at what is (and mostly what is not available) intake wise I decided to probably be dumb, and fix my boat anchor intake. I'm sure I'll regret it however who knows. I was honestly irritated as I wanted to use the Hi Ram, but not wanting to spend any more money on the car I chose this route. Side note, holy hell I seen an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake for the 302 on Ebay for over $600! Not buying it, but damn.
I stripped the intake down to bare aluminum, had the mating surfaces machined true (they were out of square by a small margin), and welded up the small cracks in the back runner bases. I replaced all of the stainless hardware with ARP bolts (intake to head), and dimpled the front and rear rail surfaces with a punch to promote good adhesion of the gasket material. I removed the cloverleaf from the carb pad and did a better job of porting the intake to match the runners and cleaned up the short turns in the intake.
So far this has cost me exactly zero dollars.
I cut and installed an aluminum plate for mounting all of my nitrous stuff (solenoids / electronics) when I install it, and ported that to match the intake. It is sammiched between the tapered 4 hole Wilson spacer I added and everything was installed. Let me preface this with I am not an engineer or an engine builder, but I did watch a few YouTube videos last night. There have been a few engine folks that I have talked to that have indicated the spacer helps pick up some power on the top end with this particular intake, so we will see what effect it has.
Here is some pics:
Yes, casting is just not the best, even after cleaning it up a lot. Again we shall see what happens. Might blow up, might be the best thing I ever did. Here is everything installed minus the air cleaner. I re routed my coolant hoses and moved some things around to make them more accessible. I do love to tinker so had fun figuring out different ways to do things that are non conventional.
That's about it for today. It runs, still need to top off the coolant and finish up some other things. Getting the windows tinted this coming Tuesday, been wanting to do that for a very long time now.
After spending the week looking around at what is (and mostly what is not available) intake wise I decided to probably be dumb, and fix my boat anchor intake. I'm sure I'll regret it however who knows. I was honestly irritated as I wanted to use the Hi Ram, but not wanting to spend any more money on the car I chose this route. Side note, holy hell I seen an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake for the 302 on Ebay for over $600! Not buying it, but damn.
I stripped the intake down to bare aluminum, had the mating surfaces machined true (they were out of square by a small margin), and welded up the small cracks in the back runner bases. I replaced all of the stainless hardware with ARP bolts (intake to head), and dimpled the front and rear rail surfaces with a punch to promote good adhesion of the gasket material. I removed the cloverleaf from the carb pad and did a better job of porting the intake to match the runners and cleaned up the short turns in the intake.
So far this has cost me exactly zero dollars.
I cut and installed an aluminum plate for mounting all of my nitrous stuff (solenoids / electronics) when I install it, and ported that to match the intake. It is sammiched between the tapered 4 hole Wilson spacer I added and everything was installed. Let me preface this with I am not an engineer or an engine builder, but I did watch a few YouTube videos last night. There have been a few engine folks that I have talked to that have indicated the spacer helps pick up some power on the top end with this particular intake, so we will see what effect it has.
Here is some pics:
Yes, casting is just not the best, even after cleaning it up a lot. Again we shall see what happens. Might blow up, might be the best thing I ever did. Here is everything installed minus the air cleaner. I re routed my coolant hoses and moved some things around to make them more accessible. I do love to tinker so had fun figuring out different ways to do things that are non conventional.
That's about it for today. It runs, still need to top off the coolant and finish up some other things. Getting the windows tinted this coming Tuesday, been wanting to do that for a very long time now.
RAU03MACH
Legend
looking really goodOh, and this is what happens when you start finding stuff lying around the garage and say "Lets see what this does!"
RAU03MACH
Legend
i have an old tunnel ram sitting somewhere for 302 i would like to do something like that with
Yeah it really has a different look, do they work, not always the best no. I really wanted to get that thing to work, but it became a money and time thing. Camping has taken over as important at home so the Mustang has to get moved to the funding resource back burner. I wanted to be able to drive it this summer also.
Got er all done and back together, and running, and then found out I have a bad WB O2 sensor. Ha, figures. I have one of the origional Snipers and they had some O2 sensor issues so not surprised. I ordered a Bosch replacement so hopefully that is no longer an issue. Nice part is it is pretty well tuned so I can still go out and drive it with the WB disconnected.
I can now say I have the most blingy, hysterical carb based intakes on the face of the planet..........or at least in my neighborhood. Granted it is still cool out, but IAT's have yet to go 2 degrees above ambient even sitting in traffic in gear. WOT this has this bizarre harmonic growl that is pretty interesting. Think I might just skip the hood:
And for some comedy I had my daughter print a sticker she is finishing to go on the top of the intake cover:
RAU03MACH
Legend
who knows i may be next in that line
i would try something like it but with 2 throttle bodies and injecting it on a tunnel ram
i would try something like it but with 2 throttle bodies and injecting it on a tunnel ram
RAU03MACH
Legend
Some mad scientist shit right there
Haha, pretty much. I might just be dumb, however I was able to get a dyno tune scheduled finally for the car. I have to wait until July 13th for results however. Going to have the Sniper fine tuned, and I will try to get some extra time to see what effect that intake has, or if it actually cost HP.
**Spring 2022**
So after not having done a lot with the car, and spent more time camping this last summer, I finally decided to poke at the hot rod some more. I had always toyed with the idea of a power adder, and had narrowed it down to either Nitrous or Turbocharging. I decided to go with the spinny muffler. Right now it is just going to be a basic low boost set up (3-5 pounds) until I can get the tune sorted out.
I ended up having to move the alternator, and picked up a low mount from Speed Doctor. Very nice piece if anyone with a Windsor motor is in the market for an alternator relocation bracket.
After a lot of thought, and I'm sure I'll probably blow something up knowing my luck, I went with a VS Racing 78/75 turbo and VS Racing 60mm wastegate. I still have a lot of work to do however here is some progress. I still have to figure out where I am going to place the wastegate, but am waiting for some 2.5" pipe and flanges so I can get that sorted out also. Likely going to mount it at the merge just below the turbo hot side V-band flange.
The exhaust is still going to come out of the driver side, with the wastegate pipe separate and venting on the driver side as well. The turbo is going to get a blanket and the hot side ceramic coated so heat I do not believe is going to be an issue. All of the pipes will get wrapped as well. I am still deciding between methanol/water injection or an air to water intercooler with an ice box. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. I have new Bosch 210cc injectors for my Sniper that I will eventually swap out but the current ones will support about 600 horse with the turbo. Should be fun until I can build a more stout short block for it down the road.
True to the projects name, it is still unorthodox
So after not having done a lot with the car, and spent more time camping this last summer, I finally decided to poke at the hot rod some more. I had always toyed with the idea of a power adder, and had narrowed it down to either Nitrous or Turbocharging. I decided to go with the spinny muffler. Right now it is just going to be a basic low boost set up (3-5 pounds) until I can get the tune sorted out.
I ended up having to move the alternator, and picked up a low mount from Speed Doctor. Very nice piece if anyone with a Windsor motor is in the market for an alternator relocation bracket.
After a lot of thought, and I'm sure I'll probably blow something up knowing my luck, I went with a VS Racing 78/75 turbo and VS Racing 60mm wastegate. I still have a lot of work to do however here is some progress. I still have to figure out where I am going to place the wastegate, but am waiting for some 2.5" pipe and flanges so I can get that sorted out also. Likely going to mount it at the merge just below the turbo hot side V-band flange.
The exhaust is still going to come out of the driver side, with the wastegate pipe separate and venting on the driver side as well. The turbo is going to get a blanket and the hot side ceramic coated so heat I do not believe is going to be an issue. All of the pipes will get wrapped as well. I am still deciding between methanol/water injection or an air to water intercooler with an ice box. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. I have new Bosch 210cc injectors for my Sniper that I will eventually swap out but the current ones will support about 600 horse with the turbo. Should be fun until I can build a more stout short block for it down the road.
True to the projects name, it is still unorthodox
9838stang
Well-Known Member
Turbo!?!?!?
Small one yes
Been working on figuring out wastegate placement and getting that sorted out. Was able to get the hot site all finish welded (my MIG stainless welds are not the best looking so don't laugh). I was back and forth about venting the WG through its own pipe but after some thought I decided I did not want another pipe helping to heat things in the engine compartment. I decided to dump it back into the down pipe. It turned out fairly decently. DP is 4" and the WG is 2.5" in and 2.25" out. I'm still concerned about erratic boost control however have been told by a number of folks that the 60mm on this motor combo with low boost will be fine. Guess we will see.
Wrapped the mid pipe, and down pipe in DEI Titanium heat wrap however I'm not supper happy about how the DP turned out so may re wrap it. I still have to finish up the support bracket to the put pipe and get some v-band gaskets installed as my v-bands leak a tiny bit at the headers. Probably from when I welded them years ago and got too much heat into one side. I have the exhaust back up to its initial location and am happy with the finished product. I recycled a lot of bents and such from my old exhaust incase anyone is wondering about the odd different colors.
Still waiting on some parts and have to run the battery to the trunk also. A bit of wiring to do, but making progress.
Wrapped the mid pipe, and down pipe in DEI Titanium heat wrap however I'm not supper happy about how the DP turned out so may re wrap it. I still have to finish up the support bracket to the put pipe and get some v-band gaskets installed as my v-bands leak a tiny bit at the headers. Probably from when I welded them years ago and got too much heat into one side. I have the exhaust back up to its initial location and am happy with the finished product. I recycled a lot of bents and such from my old exhaust incase anyone is wondering about the odd different colors
.Still waiting on some parts and have to run the battery to the trunk also. A bit of wiring to do, but making progress.
Musturd
Post Whore
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Looking good . I really like where your going with this setup under the hood . Not your usual combo can’t wait to hear your thoughts on the sniper efiBeen working on figuring out wastegate placement and getting that sorted out. Was able to get the hot site all finish welded (my MIG stainless welds are not the best looking so don't laugh). I was back and forth about venting the WG through its own pipe but after some thought I decided I did not want another pipe helping to heat things in the engine compartment. I decided to dump it back into the down pipe. It turned out fairly decently. DP is 4" and the WG is 2.5" in and 2.25" out. I'm still concerned about erratic boost control however have been told by a number of folks that the 60mm on this motor combo with low boost will be fine. Guess we will see.
Wrapped the mid pipe, and down pipe in DEI Titanium heat wrap however I'm not supper happy about how the DP turned out so may re wrap it. I still have to finish up the support bracket to the put pipe and get some v-band gaskets installed as my v-bands leak a tiny bit at the headers. Probably from when I welded them years ago and got too much heat into one side. I have the exhaust back up to its initial location and am happy with the finished product. I recycled a lot of bents and such from my old exhaust incase anyone is wondering about the odd different colors
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Still waiting on some parts and have to run the battery to the trunk also. A bit of wiring to do, but making progress.
Thanks! Seems like more of an art project than a car project though the past few years as it seems to sit and be worked on more than I drive it.
Regarding the Sniper, I am happy with it thus far running it N/A. One thing I have learned and cannot stress enough is to make damn sure there are NO exhaust leaks before the WB O2 sensor. The computer is unbelievably sensitive, and leaks will throw off the learn table so fast it will make your head spin. Took me a long time to figure that out. WOT not an issue but cruising it will really piss you off. I wish I would have waited though as the Super Sniper came out about a year after I bought this one, with a lot more features. I may eventually switch to a Super as even though I can swap injectors in this one to 210's (Holley wont tell you they can be swapped out, but they can be removed) the Super has so many other options for boost control and such down the road.
I have learned a lot tuning it, and learned a lot in general about the Holley software.
Got the car on the road and had some time to work on the tune, and the car is a lot of fun to drive. Still needs some fine tuning but getting there. Here are some pics just of the data from my laptop, sorry about the actual picture and not a screen shot, I was having problems trying to upload screen shots from my laptop.
I am running a 3 pound base boost spring in the gate, and boost is stable at 123 kPa (~3.3 lb). Air temp when I logged this info was 71 degrees, dew point was 43%, pressure was 29.06 in and humidity was 38%. I know it is pretty low boost but MAT's were just 85 degrees, and that is not taking into account the latent cooling of the atomized fuel after the TBI unit. I am interested to get the dual temp gauge installed I have to see what the before and after temps are. I am going to install a sensor in the hat, and a sensor in the bottom of the intake to measure temp differential. I am currently running 93 octane with no inter-cooler. Timing and AFR's are somewhat conservative right now until I can get it on a chassis dyno to get a better idea of what it is doing.
These are same run just a few RPM apart but it just started into the rev limiter also, I forgot I set it at 6,000 RPM. Took me a while to drive to Mexico to get some run time in so the day ran short. I am using NGK R5671A-8 temp range recessed electrode plugs. Plugs after the run look new so happy with that as well.
**Spark plug pic added after the fact**
And the engine bay all done:
It is a bit far away, but a interior pic with a prototype 3D printed gauge pod to replace the clock my friend is refining for me. I'll post some pics when it is a finished product:
I am running a 3 pound base boost spring in the gate, and boost is stable at 123 kPa (~3.3 lb). Air temp when I logged this info was 71 degrees, dew point was 43%, pressure was 29.06 in and humidity was 38%. I know it is pretty low boost but MAT's were just 85 degrees, and that is not taking into account the latent cooling of the atomized fuel after the TBI unit. I am interested to get the dual temp gauge installed I have to see what the before and after temps are. I am going to install a sensor in the hat, and a sensor in the bottom of the intake to measure temp differential. I am currently running 93 octane with no inter-cooler. Timing and AFR's are somewhat conservative right now until I can get it on a chassis dyno to get a better idea of what it is doing.
These are same run just a few RPM apart but it just started into the rev limiter also, I forgot I set it at 6,000 RPM. Took me a while to drive to Mexico to get some run time in so the day ran short
. I am using NGK R5671A-8 temp range recessed electrode plugs. Plugs after the run look new so happy with that as well.**Spark plug pic added after the fact**
And the engine bay all done:
It is a bit far away, but a interior pic with a prototype 3D printed gauge pod to replace the clock my friend is refining for me. I'll post some pics when it is a finished product:
Last edited:
For those that may still be interested, made some updates this spring. Last year I just drove the car, and worked out a lot of the bugs that I had. One of them was the intake I was using, and I finally got smart and got rid of it. I replaced the Parker copy intake with a quality Edlebrock RPM Air Gap and drive-ability was much improved. As well boost comes on a bit faster with the lowered torque curve. I was able to finally work on the hood project and got it mostly finished. The black is just rattle can however it has grown on me so think I'll have it painted matte black that actually looks good and not, well, like it was rattle canned. I added a remote oil catch can as well with -10AN lines just to have oil catch all in one spot. The breather filter I was using was just leaking oil all over and irritating me.
Next on the list is to install the water injection kit I have, and install a BOV now that I'm starting to up the boost a bit with a 6.4lb spring and base boost currently. After adding the hood I did have some intake temp increase and that was expected but nothing too terrible. Here are some pics for this years progress:
Engine Changes:
Hood Scoop Install:
I basically took the tear drop scoop and sammiched it between that top and bottom layer, worked ok, not show car quality, but deffinately in the spirit of old school hot rodding. Love it or hate it, it matches the rest of the car, not like any other Mustang out there.
Next on the list is to install the water injection kit I have, and install a BOV now that I'm starting to up the boost a bit with a 6.4lb spring and base boost currently. After adding the hood I did have some intake temp increase and that was expected but nothing too terrible. Here are some pics for this years progress:
Engine Changes:
Hood Scoop Install:
I basically took the tear drop scoop and sammiched it between that top and bottom layer, worked ok, not show car quality, but deffinately in the spirit of old school hot rodding. Love it or hate it, it matches the rest of the car, not like any other Mustang out there.
RAU03MACH
Legend
Got that hood looking good on there
I love it
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