Unorthodoxsn95 (2023 Updates, now with more turbo boost and finally a hood)

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50HSN95

50HSN95

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So in case anyone wants a good laugh about how incredibly dense I am with this whole fuel pump / fuel system thing, I'm going to spill it now....

So, got my new fuel pump hanger from Pro-M. Awesome piece, and looking forward to getting the fuel system installed......again. So here comes the "I'm dense" part. I originally ordered the Walbro 340 pump and without being smart enough to really read close I thought, ok, 340 lph pump, should be fine. Then after some research figured that the 340 would be too much, so went with the DW200 255lph pump. But wait, first, before anything one should really pay close attn. to what the hell they are buying rather than just be stupid and click the buy now button.

The Walbro GSS340BX pump I purchased a few years back is actually a high pressure 255lph pump, not a 340lph as I stupidly thought. See, apparently you have to read the details first before you buy. Who knew right? Now, not only am I doing things twice, I'm wasting money! Perhaps I should just avoid telling the wife this story.......

After all of this stupidity, I just decided to use the Walbro, and keep the DW on the OE hanger for just in case. I still have the Russel fuel line adapters to -6 and will have to check to see if they will fit on the OE hanger. I know not a perfect scenario but a quick fix for a long road trip if I have a pump failure.

I feel like I'm trapped in a Paula Abdul video, just the damn cartoon cat making fun of me and I'd be set.

With that, here is the Pro-M hanger and pump.

50001236418_a7fc88032f_c.jpg


50002012007_45f2809d93_c.jpg


Hope someone got a good laugh out of this :)
 

ttocs

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Don't feel bad. I had that same hanger/pump and then decided that rather than pull my tank/diffuser cover down if it goes bad again to go external. So then I needed a new pump, hanger, ends..... I don't regret it but I did pay for it.
 

evilcw311

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So in case anyone wants a good laugh about how incredibly dense I am with this whole fuel pump / fuel system thing, I'm going to spill it now....

So, got my new fuel pump hanger from Pro-M. Awesome piece, and looking forward to getting the fuel system installed......again. So here comes the "I'm dense" part. I originally ordered the Walbro 340 pump and without being smart enough to really read close I thought, ok, 340 lph pump, should be fine. Then after some research figured that the 340 would be too much, so went with the DW200 255lph pump. But wait, first, before anything one should really pay close attn. to what the hell they are buying rather than just be stupid and click the buy now button.

The Walbro GSS340BX pump I purchased a few years back is actually a high pressure 255lph pump, not a 340lph as I stupidly thought. See, apparently you have to read the details first before you buy. Who knew right? Now, not only am I doing things twice, I'm wasting money! Perhaps I should just avoid telling the wife this story.......

After all of this stupidity, I just decided to use the Walbro, and keep the DW on the OE hanger for just in case. I still have the Russel fuel line adapters to -6 and will have to check to see if they will fit on the OE hanger. I know not a perfect scenario but a quick fix for a long road trip if I have a pump failure.

I feel like I'm trapped in a Paula Abdul video, just the damn cartoon cat making fun of me and I'd be set.

With that, here is the Pro-M hanger and pump.

50001236418_a7fc88032f_c.jpg


50002012007_45f2809d93_c.jpg


Hope someone got a good laugh out of this :)

2fae619aebbf9a171c7bb0bb7249e2f2.gif



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Boostr1

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The Russell EFI connectors work great. I have them on my Lethal fuel hat and they will work with the stock hat.

14237490_0.jpg
 
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50HSN95

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The Russell EFI connectors work great. I have them on my Lethal fuel hat and they will work with the stock hat.

Perfect, thank you for the info! Good to know the fittings I have will still be able to be used. I was hoping they would not end up as spare parts I spent money on and threw in the corner or had to sell again.
 
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50HSN95

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This pic is just a good ole reason why ditching the factory lines was a good idea for me. I measured the ID of the factory hanger return, it was .165". No wonder I was making fuel pressure on the return side. Now, full disclosure I should have been smart enough to realize this might be an issue, but I'm learning!

50015698316_9de579eaf4_c.jpg


In the tank, and time to go back in the car!

50015698271_5b52e18939_c.jpg


Sorry no pics yet but I cut out the cheap-o sub-frame connectors I had welded in the car and started making new ones out of the 2.5" x 1.5" .120 square tubing I picked up. I will get pics of that monstrosity when I get time this week. They will tie into the door bars in the front to offer support also. Im keeping them straight with room to make a cross bar to tie the rear seat mounts in that will be an under car cross member.

They hang at the same spot the trans pan sump does so ground clearance should not be an issue. I cringe adding weight to the car, but torsional and structural rigidity are going to be "slightly" better than the stock flexi flyer the convertible was :)
 

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This pic is just a good ole reason why ditching the factory lines was a good idea for me. I measured the ID of the factory hanger return, it was .165". No wonder I was making fuel pressure on the return side. Now, full disclosure I should have been smart enough to realize this might be an issue, but I'm learning!

50015698316_9de579eaf4_c.jpg


In the tank, and time to go back in the car!

50015698271_5b52e18939_c.jpg


Sorry no pics yet but I cut out the cheap-o sub-frame connectors I had welded in the car and started making new ones out of the 2.5" x 1.5" .120 square tubing I picked up. I will get pics of that monstrosity when I get time this week. They will tie into the door bars in the front to offer support also. Im keeping them straight with room to make a cross bar to tie the rear seat mounts in that will be an under car cross member.

They hang at the same spot the trans pan sump does so ground clearance should not be an issue. I cringe adding weight to the car, but torsional and structural rigidity are going to be "slightly" better than the stock flexi flyer the convertible was :)

Don't be like me and forget to tighten those fittings... and Oh Shiting everywhere...
 
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50HSN95

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Built some slightly stronger sub frame connectors on my days off.

I used 2.5" x 1.5" 11ga tubing, and while slightly heaver than I should have used, they are tied into the roll bar door pads and offer a fair amount of support to the front side of the roll bar as a whole. I also tied the front seat, rear mount positions into the subframe. The center bar supports the seats significantly more than the old ones, and I'm going to eventually weld a pad in that will hold a drive shaft loop. On its own now thought it should do a decent job in the off chance that the drive shaft fails on the front side:

50032569083_428098c0ea_c.jpg


50033364862_705e699c54_c.jpg


50033364677_658d2c8c3b_c.jpg


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Here is the whole thing next to the old bars I took out:

50032568853_9efd2944d3_c.jpg


I chose to keep them straight and under the car rather than put them through the floor, or cut them to fit tight to the under body like the old ones that I took off. Kept things simple and as strong as possible. I put in a larger bolt than the factory, drilled out the nut plates and used collars to create support for the center of the bar to eliminate any compression of the square tube. Though at 11 gauge that is pretty unlikely.

50032568838_8c75ef2151_c.jpg


And the front outrigger that will tie into the front 6x6 plate for the door bar:

50033364802_cc95ebdc4f_c.jpg


Installed pics to come!
 
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50HSN95

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New sub frame connectors installed and painted. I don't have pics but the stock floor pan was cut out to expose a section for me to weld the outriggers into from the sub frame connectors. After they were perimeter welded and sealed with 3M body sealer and painted. They are about 1/4" lower than the sump in the transmission pan, so they will offer some protection there also:

50032568943_c8a30f3a63_c.jpg


50033107536_a8fb713c8a_c.jpg


50033107646_5c10a3df7d_c.jpg


50032568913_96d83273cf_c.jpg


50032568813_3465f6dd86_c.jpg


50032568903_d7d680f5f4_c.jpg


I'm pretty happy with how they turned out!
 
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50HSN95

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Also got my roll bar painted and started getting some of the padding cut and installed. No pics but started to get the carpet installed also. going to look like a regular car here soon inside:

50033107611_2ce85b3fd5_c.jpg


50033107586_ff824c6f56_c.jpg


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50033107516_12bd532df7_c.jpg
 

Boostr1

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Built some slightly stronger sub frame connectors on my days off.

I used 2.5" x 1.5" 11ga tubing, and while slightly heaver than I should have used, they are tied into the roll bar door pads and offer a fair amount of support to the front side of the roll bar as a whole. I also tied the front seat, rear mount positions into the subframe. The center bar supports the seats significantly more than the old ones, and I'm going to eventually weld a pad in that will hold a drive shaft loop. On its own now thought it should do a decent job in the off chance that the drive shaft fails on the front side:

50032569083_428098c0ea_c.jpg


50033364862_705e699c54_c.jpg


50033364677_658d2c8c3b_c.jpg


50033364817_3b1f725baf_c.jpg


50032568993_4bba9af6b6_c.jpg


Here is the whole thing next to the old bars I took out:

50032568853_9efd2944d3_c.jpg


I chose to keep them straight and under the car rather than put them through the floor, or cut them to fit tight to the under body like the old ones that I took off. Kept things simple and as strong as possible. I put in a larger bolt than the factory, drilled out the nut plates and used collars to create support for the center of the bar to eliminate any compression of the square tube. Though at 11 gauge that is pretty unlikely.

50032568838_8c75ef2151_c.jpg


And the front outrigger that will tie into the front 6x6 plate for the door bar:

50033364802_cc95ebdc4f_c.jpg


Installed pics to come!

New sub frame connectors installed and painted. I don't have pics but the stock floor pan was cut out to expose a section for me to weld the outriggers into from the sub frame connectors. After they were perimeter welded and sealed with 3M body sealer and painted. They are about 1/4" lower than the sump in the transmission pan, so they will offer some protection there also:

50032568943_c8a30f3a63_c.jpg


50033107536_a8fb713c8a_c.jpg


50033107646_5c10a3df7d_c.jpg


50032568913_96d83273cf_c.jpg


50032568813_3465f6dd86_c.jpg


50032568903_d7d680f5f4_c.jpg


I'm pretty happy with how they turned out!

Nooice, Ya have some decent welding skills to boot.
 
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50HSN95

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Nooice, Ya have some decent welding skills to boot.

Thanks! I still need some more practice, time is always an issue at home. I need a new welder also, my 150 year old Hobart is showing its age, but it does ok :)

Got some interior work done, and fuel system is all done also. I'll drudge up some pics of the fuel lines and such, but best part is the fuel pressure is stable at 60psi now. Cannot tell you how excited I am about that! I need to double check the valve train on the car though, it sounds like a damn sewing machine, but it might be the thin sheet metal valve covers just allowing regular valve train noise to echo through. There is a lot of seat, and open pressure on the springs also. I went through a few weeks back and found no issues at all so I'll keep an eye on it.

Interior is getting closer though, side note, carpet is a pain in the a** to install when you have a roll bar and door bars!

50046234728_9a6e5e3acd_c.jpg


50046234718_66d35e407a_c.jpg


I had some spare 3M DI-NOC carbon fiber vinyl graphics so I wrapped the door bars where peoples butts slide over to avoid scratching the hell out of the bars when getting in and out. It gets damaged I can just replace it.
 

Akurma

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Car is really coming together!

Not sure if you just didn't install it or are missing it but, I have the gauge cluster trim/bezel from a 97 cobra I parted out. If you are in need of it you can have it, just cover shipping.
 
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50HSN95

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Car is really coming together!

Not sure if you just didn't install it or are missing it but, I have the gauge cluster trim/bezel from a 97 cobra I parted out. If you are in need of it you can have it, just cover shipping.

Thank you! I do have mine still, I have not gotten to getting it installed. I'm still trying to get the dash speed o to work with the US Shift trans controller,and still poking at wiring.

very cool!

Thanks!
 
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50HSN95

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Now that I have my fuel pressure issues resolved, I have been able to get a few miles on the car. I was running into some issues with it not wanting to start after it had warmed up. I had to go into the Holley software and turn the Cranking Fuel WAY down. It was flooding the car when it was warm. It is nice that the software has a "clear flood" feature built into it, allowing for furl cut off after 60% TPS or I would have had to sit for a long time until the car cooled off.

I also learned how to disable the learning enabled / closed loop operation when using the 2 step so it does not try to fuel itself to death when on the brake and 2 step also. Amazing all the little things the system can do. The more miles also the more the learning tables are correcting for fuel in various places. It is becoming a lot more efficient ad cruise and other throttle ranges.

Here is how the fuel system turned out. For now I used a generic EFI fuel filter with 1/4" NPT ends that I just threaded -6AN fittings onto. I really did not have a mount for it so I cut a piece of exhaust tubing that the filter fit inside of and folded over the ends in 4 places on one side, and threaded in a screw to retain it on the other then just bolted it to the bumper. Works for now and it does not leak or vibrate so should be fine. Chalk one up for some budget ingenuity. As I recall this filter 10 micron. I also have a small filter on the return side that is 40 micron.

Yeah it looks kind of wonky but it works, and is not going anywhere:

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Fuel line routing:

50072833831_587de8a73e_c.jpg


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Now granted I did not use a tape measure here but the SFC's have just over 5" of ground clearance at their lowest point. Not the best but they again protect the sump for the transmission pan so unless I hit something square on, they should provide some protection in the event something happens:

50072270843_f11009436f_c.jpg


Cooling in the car is awesome! Granted I don't have a hood right now so that contributes to some additional cooling but the engine and transmission coolers definitely do their job. The temps below are after a long drive, idling in the driveway for about 2 min. Weather at the time was 91 (feels like temp was 98), dew point 74, sunny and hot, idle speed is 900. The fan comes on at 190, in the heat it goes up to about 195 and comes back down to 185 and the fan cycles off. Freeway temps are 174 and it just sits there. Might almost be a tad cool, but I bet that changes a bit with a hood. All the other temps are good at freeway speeds and cruising. Oil temp idling in this heat is ~200, and ~180 on the road. Trans temps have yet to go above 200 and sit at ~195 cruising and in stop and go. Not bad for a 2800 stall converter. My IAC is a bit high for being at idle and I still need to make a few adjustments to that as well. Oil is 10W 30 conventional.

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50072835511_bda46175bc_c.jpg
 

white95

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I am now really thinking about re-routing my fuel lines down the subframe connector like yours. I have enough adel clamps to do so and I think it would work better.
 

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