vac lines

ttocs

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OK still plugging on getting everything mocked up in the engine compartment. Got the meth kit mounted and wiring it now as well as the wiring for the off board voltage regulator. Up next to clean up is my vac lines. I bought a vac tree too try and make it all easy and found a mounting spot in the pass fender where I think I can easily run one line down into the intake. Is it as simple as poking a hole in the boot between my filter/maf and sticking the hose in it? What do I need to feed out too I can't seem to find much on the vac lines in my orange service manual and excuse my ignorance you have no idea how much I am learning on this whole build... I know I need one line for the Meth kit controller but other then that I do not know what I all need too feed.
 

toyman

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You are not going to get vacuum from between the filter and MAF. The only reliable spots are from the vacuum ports on the upper intake. From there you can branch out off a tee for all the other vacuum operated devices. This is the 94-95 vacuum diagram.

AIRD.bmp
 
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ttocs

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I am running a vortech system so pretty sure the upper intake is not going to work.... Any chance you can give the link to that pic I can't read most of the writing on it.
 

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The upper intake is the only place you want. Preferably the intake manifold over any nipple on the throttle body. Items such as a fuel pressure regulator are gonna be looking for the boost referenced signal, as most of the aftermarket ones raise fuel pressure on a 1 to 1 ratio. What does this mean, 43 lbs at idle, no boost, and with 10 pounds of boost and your fuel pressure will be 53 lbs. It helps the injectors overcome the extra 10 lbs of pressure in the cylinder. As for the bypass valve, the vacuum is what keeps it open letting it divert air when it is uneeded. When the valve closes, its now gonna have boost on the oppisite side of the piston, which would force it open if the vacuum line wasnt supplying the same amount of pressure on the back side of it. As for your brake booster, it has a one way check valve in it (that black 90 degree thing) that keeps boost pressure from entering into it. The thought holds true but only sorta, when are you braking and building boost at the same time. The only time i can think of, would be a burnout, but trust me, the brakes will hold the car if you get overzealous with your burnout while building boost, it just requires more pedal pressure. Your not gonna be very subtle with the brakes anyhow using the brake gas heel toe method anyways. That leads us to the pcv. In theroy, the check ball is only open under vacuum, thus under boost, it should close preventing boost from reverting back into your crankcase. From my moth to valve blow test, this didnt hold true on 6 new ones i tried in the parts store. Yep, I was the idiot standing in the store blowing on the valves backwards!!! Ive read that the turbocoupe valves seal up tight, but i went the route of "Built ford tough using chevy stuff". By that, I mean i intalled an inline (180 degree unlike most that are 90 degree) one way break booster valve from a 20013 impala. My pcv valve routes as follows, pcv hose to sealed catch can, hose from catch can to inline brake booster, back to my intake manifold source. Air can only be sucked from pcv. So what do i do to vent crankcase pressure while making boost, I have a breather on my oil filler valve cover. I think 2 would be better, but I dont have my driverside valve cover drilled for it. Hope this long as rant clears up a few things.
 

kb1982

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Btw for the other crap, egr, air valve cruise control, gas fume charcoal purge solenoid, you are probably not gonna have that crap but if you do, the pcm isnt gonna trigger them to operate under a high engine load, which is when you are gonna be producing boost. The supercharger isnt really doing nothing until you reach 0 vacuum (normally depending on bypass valve setup) unless you really plant your foot in the gas. The standard bosch bpv works that way, but some higher end bpv's and bov's are tunable to let the valve close with less throttle input, which will build boost on lighter stabs.
 

rz5.0

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The manifold creates the vacuum You need.. the only thing you don't want to run off that is your pcv..

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk
 

rz5.0

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Your fuel pressure needs to see both vac and boost.. everything will get the vac it needs when the tb closes. .

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk
 

rz5.0

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Ill try to draw up a lil diagram later.. I suck at explaining.. I can prob draw it a lil better.. you still going to run cruise, ac/heater, power brakes? No emissions right?

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk
 

95opal

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Pretty much looks like everyone covered it for you. JFYI you don't really need a vacuum tree if you eliminate all the bs. My N/A set up used 3 vac lines all pulled from the intake, much cleaner neater and a ton less cluter than running crap from a tree. New set up will be 4 lines still wont be using a tree.
 
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ttocs

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Pretty much looks like everyone covered it for you. JFYI you don't really need a vacuum tree if you eliminate all the bs. My N/A set up used 3 vac lines all pulled from the intake, much cleaner neater and a ton less cluter than running crap from a tree. New set up will be 4 lines still wont be using a tree.

Damn just using T-joints er what?
 
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ttocs

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Went out and looked at it all and not sure how I could make it that simple but would love to hear how. I do have a catch can I will be using and don't mind paying or taking some extra time to get it too look as clean as possible. Between the FPR, blend door, gauges, cruise control, brake booster and the other stuff I am forgetting it seems like a lot to manage...
 
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94/95 cobra intake, looking for some fox valve covers for my trickflow heads that I can modify to fit.
 

toyman

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I am running a vortech system so pretty sure the upper intake is not going to work.... Any chance you can give the link to that pic I can't read most of the writing on it.

The source is my version of the 1995 Ford CD service manual and EVTM. PM me if interested at $25 to your door.
 

rz5.0

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My art is not the best. But should help you some.. From the pic you see the a/c and fuel pressure regulator hook up on the 90 before the TB. There should be a fitting from the factory two small and a big one. The big one is for the vac tree on the passenger side. You can cap that one . I got vacuum for the brake booster from the fitting on the back of the intake where the pcv use to be hooked up at. . The cruise control I got from under the intake.

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk
 
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ttocs

ttocs

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My art is not the best. But should help you some.. From the pic you see the a/c and fuel pressure regulator hook up on the 90 before the TB. There should be a fitting from the factory two small and a big one. The big one is for the vac tree on the passenger side. You can cap that one . I got vacuum for the brake booster from the fitting on the back of the intake where the pcv use to be hooked up at. . The cruise control I got from under the intake.

Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk

makes sense to me thanks for all the help I know to go over basic stuff like this can get old....

My next step is my catch can. I know you have gone over that with me before when I was trying to understand the pcv/catch can stuff as I was hoping I could make heads/tails about it and be able to do it myself. I have never really been able to grasp the different ways to do it or which way would be better for me yet so unfortunately I am back to that spot. It has a breather on it and I am in the process of trying to find some fox valve covers to use with my trickflow heads.
 

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