Vacuum from smog in fender well

kas_lar

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I’m in the process of removing the smog system.
The midpipe has been removed, and I’d like to know about the vacuum system in the passenger side fender well.


Please see the attached photo:
Can I remove the entire plate (marked with the yellow line) and just leave the three connections (marked with red circles) hanging?


I’ve already capped off the two vacuum lines (photo 1) on the EGR and another location — I hope that’s fine.
It's a 1995 V8.
 

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shovel

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If you have deleted both secondary air and EGR you can remove them, you'll get stored fault codes in your PCM from them not being in the circuit but you'll already get that from the plumbing not being in place.

EGR is for more than just emissions and is better to keep it functional unless you've already replaced your headers and intake with non-EGR parts.
 

Terrorist 5.0

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If your car is stock, I would consider keeping the EGR. It can net some pretty decent MPG gains, especially on the highway. No real reason to remove it.
 
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kas_lar

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Hi, and thanks for replying! I haven’t removed the EGR, and I’m planning to keep it. With European gas prices, I need all the MPG I can get!
 

shovel

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I relocated my EGR solenoid to a location up by the firewall, that simply reduced how much vacuum tubing was necessary to reach it and any future service can be done right there without getting into the fender liner.
 
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kas_lar

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I relocated my EGR solenoid to a location up by the firewall, that simply reduced how much vacuum tubing was necessary to reach it and any future service can be done right there without getting into the fender liner.
That sounds like a nice solution. Can you take a picture and show how you've done it?
It's the center solenoid, right? The red one?
 

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shovel

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egr.png

EGR solenoid ziptied to chassis brace, wire harness drawn back into the engine compartment from the hole at the back of the fender structure. Short vacuum hoses from manifold vacuum source to solenoid to EGR diaphragm. Nothing to it.
 
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kas_lar

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Just a quick update to close the thread.


User "Shovel" helped me out a lot and was really nice.
Here are his instructions, and I've attached photos from my own car. Now the smog system is gone, the EGR is working, and the fender well and engine bay are nice and tidy.
I encourge you to have a look at his YT channel : Shovel on YT

Here is his instructions in more detail:

EGR Solenoid and Vacuum Setup Instructions​


  1. Identify the EGR Solenoid:
    The EGR solenoid is the larger of the three solenoids on the bracket. The two smaller solenoids are part of the "Thermactor" system (also known as the smog pump or secondary air injection system).
  2. Remove the Secondary Air System:
    If you’ve removed the secondary air system, you can eliminate the two smaller solenoids. However, if you're running a stock ECU, be aware that the ECU will store an emissions code if it doesn't detect the DC resistance from these solenoids. It will also store a different emissions code if the solenoids are present but not plumbed into the exhaust as the factory setup.
  3. EGR Solenoid Installation:
    • Vacuum Line Routing: The vacuum circuit for the EGR is simple. Connect the vacuum port on the intake manifold to the small port on the EGR solenoid. This is the port farthest from the electrical connector, which prevents the solenoid from being pulled open by the vacuum.
    • Connect Solenoid to EGR Diaphragm: The other barb fitting on the solenoid connects to the barb fitting on the EGR diaphragm. You only need two vacuum hoses: one from the manifold to the solenoid, and one from the solenoid to the diaphragm. The length of the hoses doesn’t matter, so you can place the solenoid wherever it fits best.
  4. Vacuum Reservoir and Hoses:
    • The vacuum reservoir on the bracket is used to prevent hysteresis, but it’s not necessary if you’re just routing the vacuum to the EGR solenoid close to the intake manifold.
    • Vacuum Hose: The plastic vacuum tube used in the factory setup isn’t necessary. Instead, you can use flexible vacuum hose, which should be 5mm or 6mm in diameter (you can buy this based on visual fit). This type of hose is more durable than the fragile plastic tube.




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