Valve to piston relief spec's ?

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OLD H2S

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You're killing me!. I got the 5.4 heads because of the picture of the 7/16 socket in the exhaust port you posted, no need to work on the exhaust ports. All you all have to help me decide which way to go:
1. keep the heads stock and clean them up with new guides and valves, stock cuts on the seats, flat top cast pistons, Bulitt Torquer cam,JBA shorty headers call it a day and see what the numbers are. This is where I am right now.
2. Gasket match the intake ports, mild porting on the intake ports, "shredder" valve seats, mill the head .070, deck the block .020, build the close clearance high compression motor with the Torquer cam to keep the compression as high as possible. This was what I am thinking about doing.
3. Screw it, build max effort crazy motor and shove 1.900 valves in it.
 

lwarrior1016

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Are your pistons set with the 5.4 compression height? Did I miss the part about you going 5.4L? I wouldn't gasket match the I take ports, the way I understand is that kills the port velocity and changes what it was designed to do. However, if your putting the huge valve in there, I think it should be opened up some. I vote option 2 & 3.
 
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I have not pulled the motor yet, every time I get crazy and do too much I hurt so much I need to slow down for a few days. The motor is a stock '96 4.6 in the car and running. Got the Brembo conversion kit from FTR this week(thanks Pete) so that will go on this week but we have snow coming so..... keep those replies coming in.
 

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Max effort 5.4l on a budget....yes! Using cheapest available parts. Stock or aftermarket. ..they cant break the bank. Thats my vote!
 

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http://www.fullytorquedracing.com/mustang/sn95-1994-1998/sn95-gt500-brembo-brake-kit.html

c6acff86ee1331a42ee32a687caef961.jpg
 

lwarrior1016

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Those are PI heads, I thought the exhaust valve was too big for the 1.90" intake valve to fit in there?
 
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I got the brake calipers cheap because the crossover tubes were trashed, guy on EBay said they were fine go ahead and run them, wish I took a picture for you. So I tried with Brembo to get some new tubes for a month, went round and round with them, they will sell crossover tubes for a WRX or a EVEO but nothing else. I tried both USA and Italy
IMG_0499-D.jpg
, no go. I made these crossover tubes out of 5mm stainless, I should sell them on EBay.
 
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The valves came in today, this pic shows the difference between the stock tumble type and the cut down thin head stainless from MHS.
IMG_0502-D.jpg
The valve guides came already sized for the valves which I am not happy about, I will pin gauge check each one and check the valve stems, the first stem in this pic. is .0005 under size.
IMG_0504-D.jpg
This is my polishing bench. I do a lot of polishing, wish I had this rig and the vacuum system 40 years ago when I was an apprentice starting out, would have saved my lungs. I make surgical instruments for a living.
IMG_0508-D.jpg
Here is a set of valves I polished sitting in the head.
IMG_0513-D.jpg
Next time I will show putting in the Timesets in the spark plug holes.
 
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I put the Brembos on the car this week, had a small leak to tighten up on the crossover tubes, they would be the easy part. My '96 GT came with a 7/16 short male hard line connector on the drivers side. I used the new Ford Boss type flex line to the caliper, the Boss flex line is 3/8 long type of connection, dang it. So I look around for adapters, none to be had so I order some, and wait. I get the drivers side done and bled, good to go, then.. I start on the right side go to make the hard line connection and no go, the right side is 3/8 short connector, NOOOO. So now I need 3/8 short to 3/8 long flex hose. I order them, and wait. 2 different size hard line male flare nuts on my car for the factory, do you know if this is normal?
IMG_0529-D.jpg
Next up was changing to the Ford lightweight aluminum drive shaft. I get the old one out and the new one has a transmission prop shaft that is too small to fit, Grrrr. Time to switch input props, no problem just more aggravation.
IMG_0531-D.jpg
 
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This week's trouble is the rotors. Here is a pic of the turning job I got done, lots of chatter on all the surfaces. To control the chatter lower the feed speed and increase the tool pressure whether it is a drill bit, milling cutter or lathe tool. I bet less than half the pad is touching the rotor on
IMG_1191-D.jpg
both sides and the car feels like it.
 
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I got the heads back from getting them decked .070" here is a pic. The quench pad has just been touched and shows how far down the heads are cut, the edge of the intake valve is just .060 below the deck edge.
IMG_1195-D.jpg
Here is a pic of CC'ing the head chamber:
IMG_1199-D.jpg
You can see I cut back on the short radius hump a little. The volume is coming in it 34.5 cc's and with the bubble and cutting variance I am using 35 cc's for compression ratio calculation and getting 15.5:1. This is with a flat top piston sticking up .020 above the the block. So the big question is can I run this as a DD on the street? I have not cut the block yet so I can lower the CR by changing the deck height. Flame on guys.
 

lwarrior1016

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I'm just going to say awesome. You're doing some really good work here. Sorry I can't help with the compression numbers but I think it'll be cool to see you do it!
 
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Yes, they are 6 hole pintle, so I do not know if they are 3 or 4 type, I will have to look them up and get back to you. I talked to Herman at Horsepower by Herman who is my tuner and he wants me to bump up to a 255 liter fuel pump so he can dial up the pressure to get better atomization with the high CR.
 
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I have not told him about the CR coming in at 15.5 with a piston .020 above the block, this would put the piston .016 from the head which is going to be too close for a starting point. At zero deck height I am getting 14.3 CR and the distance is .036 with the Felpro gasket.
 

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could get stock ford replacements head gaskets .039"

Is there room for the sparkplug ground strap? Id hate for you to report back damaged plugs.
 

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