Valve to piston relief spec's ?

hondarocks61

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That valve guide tool is AWESOME!

Also, high compression is badass.

Sent from my LGL22C using Tapatalk
 
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I measured up the new valve guides and made a block to stop the cross pin, then a carbide drill to get the hole in the right spot for the cross pin,warmed up the head and the guides went in harder than they came out which is good. Got them all set at .625 stick up for the seals to mount to. I took an old set of intake and exhaust valves and some "C" series carbide that I cut into small pieces and brazed them onto the valves at a 45 degree angle and then ground them at a 45.5 degree angle on a diamond wheel running in my lathe. I cut the top of the valve stem off and laser welded it to the base so I can cuck it up in a drill. I did not get a pic but they cut the seats nice and smooth but very slow cutting, so I will get to a real tool cutter and make the angle of attack more aggressive and see if I go faster. If not I will have to get a set of cutters with multi tooth inserts and save the homemade ones as a finishing tool to complete the job.
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lwarrior1016

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That is some awesome tech right there! Very innovative, Do you have any pictures of them working or set up getting ready to work? Also, I know you said you dont have any currently but is there any way you can get pictures of how the cuts came out?
 

96blak54

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This guy is about like me....cant stand to buy something when he can make it. Awesome detail intricate work! I too want pics!
 
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So I track down my cutting tool sharpening machine which I bought new 20 years ago but the people that bought the company out have done zero maintenance
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and upkeep, GRRR. No cutting wheels, no set up parts, no air supply to run the air spindle, GRRRRRRRRRRR!!!! I bring in a diamond wheel and fight to get the primary angle done in 2 hours, I'm ready to snap. No back cutting, secondary angle or leading edge relieving because of missing parts and the little light you see is the only light around, the place was a Stygian cave.
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I am using a hand bit holder to feel how the cutter is working and when it starts to chatter. The new angle is more aggressive than yesterday but still very slow. the new valves are .020 larger that the old ones and the seats have to be cut deeper and wider to fit the new valves before cutting the 60-75 degree inner angle to drop the seat width down to the Ford spec. of .080 wide. High Po seat widths are cut to .040 for Chevy's, I have not settled on a size yet so your comments are welcome on which way I should go.
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Here I am trying to get a low angle so you can see the seat finish in the light, not as smooth as yesterday but good enough for lapping compound but..... I have along way to cut to get the valves to fit so I am thinking about bring out the boring bar and roughing in the 16 holes a bit faster and using my homemade cutters for the finishing. Now the problem is how do I set the head at 11 degrees and how to bolt it down to use a milling machine to speed things up?
 
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Here I am honing the valve guides with a 7mm Flex Hone brush using soapy water as the cutting lubricant. I did just a primary fitting just so the valve would go in, a tight slip fit. End clearancing will be done later when I figure out what size to do. How much clearance do you use?
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The intake port has been cut with a 36 grit sanding roll to get the roughest finish I could.
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SN90FiveOh

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Man all of your work is awesome. I get a headache if I read too much of it at once though. I gotta slow down and try to comprehend I'll be following the rest of this and hopefully learning along the way.
 
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Thank you all for the kind words. I am showing all this because of this site so please send them money. I would never show all the grief it takes to do this and the mistakes that happen daily but for this place. This thread has a LONG way to go and I am slow and with trying to make a living in this economy, wife, 2 kids starting college with no money yada yada yada....I hope next year is better for I am about done and will end up working back on the turf farm which is the bottom. I started this build because the wife gave me her Mustang after 20 years as her daily driver, well worn but paid for and it's the devil I know. I have lots of parts left from the old days in the attic from other builds and now I wish I had not junked so much of them over the years but you look at something and think "I'm never going to use that or no more Fords" but here I am.
So far the pistons are 250.00, heads 250.00, cams 600.00, valves,guides, seals, gaskets, followers,bearings, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, trans parts, rear gear, axles,brakes, exhaust=at least 3000 so bringing a 20 year old car back will be 10k which with the amount of old parts I have around is not bad compared to how much money I have spent on other cars, booze, bad decision choices with plenty of screw ups etc. I am selling my retirement for present fun, after 3 market collapses there is not much left after doing everything right for the last 40 years, grumble grumble.
I figure I will be working till I die, the master that trained me was blind and 85 years old, his whole world was under a microscope but he was hooked. It really sucks that some jobs you are better today than you have ever been and will be even better tomorrow. I gotta move to Germany but that place sucks.Thanks for reading and to BLACK54 for the idea of doing something different in a NA engine, some things are radical like 15.5 compression and some things I am not going to do even though I am in there, I want to see what kind of numbers I can get before going crazy with it, and what is truly repeatable for you to do.
 

96blak54

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Thank you!

Wait a min though....a radical 15.1static compresion is business everyday. Many many many engine builds are stupid high compression well pass 15static, especially big block engines!.....or should I state "long rod" engines?....hmmm
 
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Your right, but mine is going to use a little weenie cam to keep all that compression where it belongs... in the cylinder!
 
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So am I, dreaming keeps me going. For today's hack.. I do a lot of tapping threads and I was tapping some cast iron which is flakey and brittle as your brother in law, this is my secret goo I use to cut down on breakage whenever I tap threads. It has to be the real petroleum base stuff not your citrus/soy bean oil crap.
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Here is a pic of the ports that I roughed up with the 36 grit sanding cartridges, you can see the casting line in the side of the port, so I did not remove much in the way of making the ports bigger just rougher for better air flow. I did remove the hump in the top roof the runner. Here is the gasket sitting in its location and the opening could be matched to the gasket. Yes or No what is your thoughts on the idea?
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I am trying to show what I am doing and how I did it so there is a record of how the build resulted in the RWHP I get. This is a good time to give these nice people some money to keep this place running, sounds like PBS begging, yes? Why? Because I came up with a hack today that will make you squeal like 12 year old girls at a Justin Bieber show, and you want all that good karma flowing your way. When I show it the gears are going to start turning in your head and more cool engines will be made for less money. The parts are on order and will be here next week, I will give the numbers so you can copy what I have made and that is worth paying for so give this site some of your love. Stay tuned, Mr.Fart out.
 

96blak54

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GOOP!!! Never would have guessed that! I agree, normal tapping fluides arnt what they used to be. However, their is a trick to tapping cast iron. Use a dull tap.
 

SN90FiveOh

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I was also wondering yes or no about opening the very beggining of the intake port to the same size as the gasket. Would it benefit anything?
 
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I got things going today and inquiring minds want to know what the big deal is.... How to squeeze a 2 valve head on a little Chinese Barbie mill..
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The big problem is the cam towers are always in the way and they are high accuracy and CAN NOT be scratched or nicked. Here is the head sitting on 123 blocks and the cam towers are clear from the surface plate
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The top and bottom holes are for setting the head at 11 degrees, the 2 holes in use are the flat setting.
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The hole locations must be accurate. I tack welded the plates back to back so the holes would be in the right place on both plates.
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Any time you drill a hole through 2 pieces of metal put a piece of tape between the parts to stop the "squirming" when you drill.
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Being able the do your own work on your heads at your own pace is something you can do and finding a buddy with a Barbie mill is easier than getting on a regular Bridgeport and being pushed off because it needs to be used all the time. I am going to check the setup and I will post the dimensions for the plates I made because getting the 11 degree set up to work on the valve seats and bowl area is hard to figure out on a Barbie mill without the cam towers touching.
 

96blak54

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And its soooooo much fun!!! Feels great to create! You always have good ideas and I love to see others come up with sloutions.

The fixture will work out great. You know the bolts and the holes will have some play allowing you to bump in fine tune. Shims under the fixture will help also.
 
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I will check the locations of the holes for accuracy and post the numbers especially for the 11 degree holes, the geometry was simple but the cam towers really made simple math into hours of trial and error on a Barbie mill because of space. Allso you can not gauge off the cam towers they are all different just like stock connecting rods. For my next hack.. How to remove chatter marks for valve seats, stay tuned. Mr. Fart out.
 

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