Valve to piston relief spec's ?

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OLD H2S

OLD H2S

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Here is a seat that I pressed too hard on and it has some chatter on it.
IMG_0549-D.jpg
Here is the same seat after polishing out the indentations,
IMG_0551-D.jpg
And this is how you do it, some sandpaper on the cutter head, and run it in reverse, so easy to do and look at the quality of the seat, much better to do it your self.
IMG_0552-D.jpg
 

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Some how...12hrs ago, I missed this post. Looks good! I have to say I am impressed! Very ingenuitive.
 
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Here are new pics, the exhaust gasket scribe line and the size of the port opening, I did not open the port to the line, I left about .060 all the way around the hole in case I need to remove some more later when I need to go 199mph.
IMG_1268-D.jpg
IMG_1267-D.jpg
I put in the Timeserts to reinforce the spark plug holes. Very easy to do at home and much cheaper.
IMG_1272-D.jpg
It is hard to see but I changed the primary intake angle from 60 to 75 degrees. The valve seat contact is .080 wide per Ford spec, this helps the hot valve transfer heat to the head and make the heads last a long time but is not the trick size for max performance.
IMG_1273-D.jpg
The intake inlet is now 42mm, stock is 39mm, this is going to flow weather you port the runners or not so my mild home made stage one heads should be good to go.
IMG_1269-D.jpg
Here I am checking the clearance between the cam base lobe and the GT followers, both new. You clean out the old lifters and reuse them but I was getting funky changes and readings so I got a set of new ones from Sealed Power and the are very nice from Summit Racing for 6.00 each. The spec is .018 to .034 and here I am already too wide so I will shim the bottom of the lifters with a tighter spec being better for high RPM use. My worst one was an exhaust valve that came in at .017 which is .001 under spec but I will leave it as tighter is better. I was worried I sunk the valves too much but even this homemade job is coming out better than I expected but it is a lot of extra work all because I did not notice I ordered replacement valves that were .020 over size. Now I have made some great heads at home and so can you. All you need is a good set of calipers and go slow and things come out pretty close to each other and much less cost. It's going to be great to see the numbers when it is done.
 

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Well....most dont have the valve seat cutter at home. Research Neway valve seat cutters.

Have you lapped the valves yet? All in all it appears you did a great job! For those reading, paying close attention to the details adds up to the success.
 
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Shredder Valves:
IMG_0564-D.jpg
This is pretty easy to do, I used a Dremel cut off disk, I could go faster if I used the reinforced type of wheel but the brittle kind are all I had laying around.
 

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The valve looks awesome! Its great youre showing all the tiny tricks to engine building. While most focus on CFM, there are those that realize the interal combustion engine relies on ...well....combustion. And small unthought of tricks like what youve shown here improve combustion. Thank you sir!
 

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Shredder Valves:
IMG_0564-D.jpg
This is pretty easy to do, I used a Dremel cut off disk, I could go faster if I used the reinforced type of wheel but the brittle kind are all I had laying around.

Very interesting. I've never seen this before. I'm assuming this helps the air and fuel mixture before it enters the combustion chamber?
 
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Helps by shear, any gas out of suspension from low velocity from too big porting at too low RPM. The gullies trap the liquid and the sharp edges form the shear line getting the gas in dispersion. Now this is just a low buck helper at low RPM not a replacement for the latest generation of fogger fuel injectors but.. when you look at the spread of an injector cloud and the port size there is a lot of gas just flowing down the side of the port wall into the cylinders. When you take the manifold off and look down the ports you can see exactly where the gas is hitting because of the clean spot on the wall, very discouraging, Ford has the little cutout in the port wall and liquid gas is hitting the back of the valve to cool it, then the "tumble type" or "swirl type" chamber is supposed to take over and get the liquid back into "fog" for good combustion ???? It's a wonder these things run at all. This is why you see some great numbers and smooth running when people put a carb back on a modular motor, lots more wall space for gas to stick to but lots more shear and time to get the liquid back into dispersion. Back in my Mopar days I would buy poorly running junk with over sized parts on them and put in a set of manifold gaskets that had stainless steel screens built into them, people would howl that I was killing flow but they had already done that with too big cams, heads, carbs, single plane intakes. The screens did a good job of remixing the gas right at the valve and the cars ran much better, then I would take a Colortune Plug and check each cylinder at night and try to get all the same combustion color in all the cylinders and BOOM my tuning was better than the rest. 3 days latter your piece of junk was setting the road on fire...lot of hating going on.

http://www.amazon.com/Colortune-for-14mm-Spark-Plug/dp/B000E9VGNM
 
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I am here... after a cold winter and then rain for 6 weeks things are just getting caught up. Today is baby girls graduation party and I have to roast a pig so life is getting in the way. I got a real job offer from my old company after 15 years but I would have to sell my soul. I told them they need to find younger people and I want 2 helpers to teach because "I ain't going to dig the Panama Canal with a tea spoon". Last Monday the head technician died at his workbench and he was only 58. I expect a screaming phone call soon. They outsourced manufacturing to China and the price and technology leaks are killing them, they HATE inhouse manufacturing but I built that place into a 15 million a year global powerhouse and now they are roadkill, idiots.
On to the pony, I almost came up with a spare engine last week with 47k on it, that would let me move faster with the build up. Got a chip with a custom tune to take care of the EGR delete and what a difference, the car was impressive before but now it is really nice to drive and the milage went up, but I am still on the first tank of gas so time will tell. Wife is kicking me in the butt to get to it, she likes greasemonkeys.
Thanks to you all for your kind thoughts, it makes a difference, Fart out.
 
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More setbacks... The wife crashed her pickup truck into my Jeep backing out of the driveway, even with a backup camera. Both cars have enough damage that they have to be repaired and that means the Mustang must be pressed back into service. The pressure plate is iffy and the car will not shift into reverse now so how long I can nurse the Pony around is unknown.
 

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OH DANG! Gonna be one of them years? In the mean time....make stuff and post it here! Cause you good at what you do and we want to see it!
 
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Dang..everything I did today was boat porn. Glassed in 3" scupper drains and moved the battery box forward for better balance, raised the engine an inch, cut slots in the hatch covers for the wires to go through for the flounder lights. Started to rebarrel one of my AR race guns that blew up in my hands from using Russian ammo in it...my days are action packed since I quit drinking.
 
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Problems are creeping up...
My heads are close to finished so I cc'd the chambers again today to see where I am on the compression ratio. The chamber came in at 33 cc's , that is with the hump cut back some and the head milled down .070". With a gasket crush of .036" and the flat top piston sticking up .016" out of the block the piston is .020" away from the head and the CR is 16.787:1, that is without the valve relief notches cut in the pistons yet by BLACK5.4 . That is going to be too high with the Bullett Stage 1 cams I have sooooo here are some other combinations that I worked out.
At -2 cc's for the valve reliefs = 15.96 : 1

At -4 cc's for the valve reliefs = 15.22 : 1

lowering the piston down to +.012 above the block comes in at 15.0 : 1

Lowering the piston down to 0 deck height come in at 14.3 : 1 which is getting streetable but the piston is .036" away from the head now and pre ignition starts to become a worry.
I can cut out the short side humps which lowers the "tumble mixing" they cause because I have the Bosche 6 hole pintle injectors to get the mix back plus upping the fuel pressure to help get a better "fog" going on. I do not want BLACK54 to cut the pistons more for they are weak already and I need as much strength as possible for the high compression I am trying to get.

Now to the fuel milage update, I was using 15 gallons to go 200 miles on the stock tune from Ford for 1996, after pulling off the EGR and getting a custom tune from "Horsepower by Herman" that did not change the timing or fuel maps the car is using 9.5 gallons to go 200 miles and this is in town driving so I am happy with Herman's work and the car runs smooth as silk and is a blast to drive but the pressure plate must be adjusted every 4 days and it is killing my left knee which makes it hard to get up off the ground, so as soon as I get my cars back from the body shop and get things back to normal I will start the rebuild. I am looking forward to rebuilding the T-45 trans, thanks to you all for showing how you did it on this web site, it means allot to see it can be done by anyone. Time to send this place a donation for the help. Old Fart out.
 

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If youre using the felpro 9790pt2....forget .036" gasket thickness. More like over .040" iirc
 
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I did some more head cc checking, my old numbers were made by using a syringe, not the best for repeatability. The CR was coming out too high, I am trying to come in at 14.5: 1 which will be 5 more than stock and give 75 HP to the build. I got a plastic burette and a FLAT piece of plastic for today's numbers.
IMG_0588-D.jpg
When cylinder number 1 came in at 35.5cc's I knew things were good, so I checked cylinder number 3 and got 36.2 cc's so now I have some room to adjust the deck height to get to 14.5:1 CR.
IMG_0589-D.jpg
Thank you for your help and comments, Fart out.
 

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Remember the space around the piston, above the rings. Also the gasket bore space.
 

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Well...to be honest.....one can really turn an engine project into extreme science. I feel the space above the top ring is minimal to count, ...the scientist dont think so. Although they are the ones lightning bolting past the 6sec quarter.
 
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Too Close,
IMG_0591-D.jpg
Cleaning up the mess from cc'ing the chambers I put in a junk plug and put a straight edge across the plug.....
Even when 1 thread out from seating the ground strap touches in the 12 o'clock position. I usually run Denso iridium plugs, will have to look around answers.
 

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