Valve to piston relief spec's ?

96blak54 · Jul 16, 2016

You will need a multitude of the sparkplugs. Start test fitting them for ones were the ground strap is clocked towards the chamber or clocked away from the piston. And it may be necessary to shorten the ground strap as well, by grinding (like what I had to do).

The cheap copper motor craft plugs is ideal.

Even though the straight edge is close, remember their is still the gasket thickness adding space.

Nighttrain · Jul 17, 2016

Wow...i gotta say really good info and work here

96blak54 · Jul 17, 2016

Yes, this guy has stupid mad unbeknowth skillz form the nether. He touches something and it turns to gold!!

For real though....guy has talent

Nighttrain · Jul 18, 2016

Makes me wish i had a milling machine...dohhh

OLD H2S · Jul 18, 2016

You do not need a mill, after finding that the Ford heads that are supposed to be 4" on center chamber to chamber are not and the time I spent on making mistakes and cleaning up the mess a drill press would be fine to use but..
Learning to tune a drill press is easy to do, and bigger will be better to hold the cylinder head in position, a bench top type will be too small. I went all overkill on my set up thinking the factory numbers would be right, doing a hole by hole shim and adjust will work fine because the cuts you are making are very light and the less removed the better for the lapping steps. The cutters use the valve guide holes for location with a 7mm rod arbor to center the cutter and a small light as possible portable drill will work fine with a light touch. A milwaukee 12 volt is good and I could use a power screw driver if I had one. I found that the valve guide locations were all different and the time I spent trying to get to 11 degreese was a waste. I do recommend replacing the guides and seals when you have the heads off for it is fast, easy and cheap and the 7mm arbor will fit tight. Seeing how the big names companies run a flex hone through the port to do the hard port work I might just use the NPI heads on the car now.

Nighttrain · Jul 20, 2016

OLD H2S said:
You do not need a mill, after finding that the Ford heads that are supposed to be 4" on center chamber to chamber are not and the time I spent on making mistakes and cleaning up the mess a drill press would be fine to use but..
Learning to tune a drill press is easy to do, and bigger will be better to hold the cylinder head in position, a bench top type will be too small. I went all overkill on my set up thinking the factory numbers would be right, doing a hole by hole shim and adjust will work fine because the cuts you are making are very light and the less removed the better for the lapping steps. The cutters use the valve guide holes for location with a 7mm rod arbor to center the cutter and a small light as possible portable drill will work fine with a light touch. A milwaukee 12 volt is good and I could use a power screw driver if I had one. I found that the valve guide locations were all different and the time I spent trying to get to 11 degreese was a waste. I do recommend replacing the guides and seals when you have the heads off for it is fast, easy and cheap and the 7mm arbor will fit tight. Seeing how the big names companies run a flex hone through the port to do the hard port work I might just use the NPI heads on the car now.

I always do guides and seals when i do heads. I say milling machine because...well hey why not and i like to play with head bowls to increase squish, combustion volumn, that sort of thing. Also would be nice to do valve jobs without trying to figure everything out everytime. Anyway keep the brain waves moving.

lwarrior1016 · Sep 12, 2016

Hey [MENTION=20979]OLD H2S[/MENTION], have you been doing anything in here?

OLD H2S · Sep 14, 2016

Hey gang, I am still vertical. Sorry for the delay, life, death, getting the kid to college, wife got T boned in her 5 day old Willys Wheeler, got the "call" to build a new endoscope manufacturing lab, I am welding my butt off and that part of work is fun. Work bought a new HTP welder and I have never used this brand, the shop only has 201 volts coming in so the settings are off a little bit. I walk by my home made heads every day and I am getting the itch back. I have to learn to dedicate time to more than one obsession.
Found a low milage 3 valve aluminum 4.6 out of a 2010 Mustang that would make for a lighter engine build, would it work? Tell me your thoughts. Fart out.

Nighttrain · Sep 15, 2016

Yup itll work, blocks are the same....you might even get interested in working out the 3v lol. [MENTION=9106]Thomas_W[/MENTION]did a full 3v swap in his sn. Omly thing you should need are the 2v timing cover and intake of coarse if you put your npi stuff on it.

Thomas_W · Sep 15, 2016

The 3V swap is pretty simple, save for a few items.

1. You can use 2v headers, but you need adapter plates. Otherwise there is a set of 3v mustang longtubes that will fit in the SN95 chassis with a little massaging. Or if your a welded, buy up/make some 3v header flanges and modify some 2v headers by welding on the 3v flanges

2. Motor mounts, use the same 4.6 SN95 motor mounts

3. Throttle body- you'll need a cable driven cobra/mach1 throttle body. They will bolt right up to the stock 3v intake by enlarging the bolt holes slightly. I have a 1/2" spacer on my car from logan motorsports (no longer in business) that allows you to bolt a throttle cable bracket (also from logan).

4. VCT cam- you'll need to lock this out with a set of VCT lockout blocks (comp cams, BBR, etc)

5. Radiator hoses- just gotta figure our where to put the thermostat and hose routing.

6. Cam position sensor connector- needs lengthened to reach the driver side cam position sensor

7. Vacuum lines- route are needed

8. IAC- you'll need a remote IAC flange w/ a nipple and figure out where to connect it on the intake (mine is on the factory nipple for the passenger valve cover breather).

9. Fuel rails- these need swapped side to side to put the rail connection on the passenger side

10. A tune to get the most out of the swap. You get to reuse the 2v computer and engine harness.

OLD H2S · Sep 15, 2016

Will the T45 trans bolt right up? I am really looking forward to building my trans myself, It is a top reason I am keeping the car. The block is worth it if I go into the CAM class in the SCCA

Thomas_W · Sep 15, 2016

Yea, it bolts right up

OLD H2S · Sep 16, 2016

Can I run the stock 3 valve engine? Do I have to do the cam lockout? Man this opens up a new can of worms.

Thomas_W · Sep 16, 2016

OLD H2S said:
Can I run the stock 3 valve engine? Do I have to do the cam lockout? Man this opens up a new can of worms.

You are running the 3v engine.. but if you want to run it off the 2v ECU you have to do all of the above stuff.. otherwise your going to have to buy the FRPP "power pack" for the 3v motor which is like $2500

OLD H2S · Sep 16, 2016

Ouch, I will keep looking for a low milage block.

OLD H2S · Sep 17, 2016

BINGO...

The oil cap

I had been looking at a 3valve in Texas with 47k on it for a year, but the price keeps going up and LKQ wants 2200.00 for it plus shipping. This morning I look on Craigs List and a fresh listing of a 3valve with 37k on the clock with proof. This guy's daughter totaled the car and he bought it back from the insurance company to put the motor with the automatic trans in his '66 Mustang. He learned that he has to cut the shock towers to make the swap and dumps the motor because he doesn't want to cut the car. I had to remove the auto trans for him but I got the motor for 1200.00.
The oil cap was clean, the oil was clean and the filter was a 820s so he was going to the dealer for service, had pictures to back it up so I grabbed it, only 20 miles away. Wife is happy because the original motor stays together as a spare for when I screw up. Been sitting on a new engine stand for in the box for 3 years waiting for what ever I came up with so here is the new subject. Flame on, Fart out.