You dont hear about npi sparkplug blow out! But....yea you're right. Dang sparkplugs!
Valve to piston relief spec's ?
- Thread starter OLD H2S
- Start date
You dont hear about npi sparkplug blow out! But....yea you're right. Dang sparkplugs!
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
Lol
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Plugs..plugs, blowouts.... look at back post somewhere here, I timeserted the heads, fast easy, cheap and strong, just make sure you drill the pilot hole deep enough and they come out great.
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I had one exhaust valve that came out low by -.015, I took the head into Burtonsville Performance machine shop to measure and get their opinion. The low valve is not a problem. While I was there they saw my homemade "shredder" intake valves and said they work and showed me another trick to do....
Put a 25 degree "anti reversion lip " on the outside edge of the valve. I thought this was a great tip and easy to do at home, just showing some effort on my side and 2 pro's tell me a hint.
Here is a shallow slot I cut in the cam journal for oil distribution. I am useing a Hurricane oil pump and and Ford GT supercar followers so top end oiling is the best I can make it.
This shot is the oil drain back hole to the oil pan with a big burr I am cutting down. These are all do at home jobs you can do. My thanks to Allen and Bub for the advice, here is their facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/Burtonsville-Performance-Machine-Service-154349891267211/
Excellent info!
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
Nice work!
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Thank you all for your advice, I think I am going to stop here on the heads. I start to obsess about doing more and polishing forever, I could go on and on but I'm not sure I would gain anything. Time to move on to taking apart the 3v. Today I put the valves in with a new set of stock springs I found cheap on MMR. The cam is only .525 lift so they will be fine, I reused the spring keepers and valve locks. The new style valve stem seals made out of Viton look much better than the original ones. Here are some pics of the polished valves and the intake ports that I left roughed out by 40 grit sanding roll.
They look great! You will use them...right?
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
Thank you all for your advice, I think I am going to stop here on the heads. I start to obsess about doing more and polishing forever, I could go on and on but I'm not sure I would gain anything. Time to move on to taking apart the 3v. Today I put the valves in with a new set of stock springs I found cheap on MMR. The cam is only .525 lift so they will be fine, I reused the spring keepers and valve locks. The new style valve stem seals made out of Viton look much better than the original ones. Here are some pics of the polished valves and the intake ports that I left roughed out by 40 grit sanding roll.
Do i see bullet cams boxs? Hehe! They look top notch my man
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Yes they are Bullet cams, tow truck cams for NPI heads, I ordered the wrong ones ( a recurring theme in this thread) and they would not trade for the right ones even when I called them the day I received them. So another mistake on my end adds more fuel for your entertainment. Lets see.. wrong cams, wrong valves, wrong pistons,15:1 compression, this mashup is going to to have you shaking your head, all on 5.4 heads. Time to start the "guess the output" of this build. I was trying for max velocity max torque small valve type of setup but the dyslexic screw ups changed the direction weather I wanted to or not, we will see, failure does not bother me, there is never time to do it right but there is always time to do it twice and now I have a spare 3v top end laying around for when I get bored with this set up. I warned you this thread has YEARS left in it. Fart out.
Nighttrain
Well-Known Member
Lol, live and learn.
I like how he states this thread will go on for years because building multiple engine combos.
You see folks! This is what its all about. .....having fun! Challenging yourself.
You see folks! This is what its all about. .....having fun! Challenging yourself.
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I started to take apart the 3V donor engine, and the first piston removed had the 2 top rings in alignment for the gaps, that is not good and I hope they were rotating around the piston. The bottom oil ring is frozen in place and is not moving, it is filled with gunk. After measuring the piston and bore the hole is out of spec and the block will have to honed .020 over, my replacement pistons are too small. I am getting that sinking feeling..
Next up is the steel windage tray, not as cleaned as I hoped
The oil pump pick up looks good enough. I have a new composite windage tray that covers the whole bottom, I do not know which one is better, your thoughts?
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More Problems...
I cleaned the aluminum block and started to do the rough honing of the bores. I am using a Sunnen hone with the micrometer adjusting top that has always worked well for me and today, nothing,nada, nope, no go. The Ford liners are too hard for my 120 grit stone package??? I cut for 2 hours and only removed .002, this stuff is hard! I looked at some better cutters for Sunnen and there are many but I think I will take the block over to Burtonsville Performance and use the same money to let them wrestle with the block. Good cutters are expensive.
I cleaned the aluminum block and started to do the rough honing of the bores. I am using a Sunnen hone with the micrometer adjusting top that has always worked well for me and today, nothing,nada, nope, no go. The Ford liners are too hard for my 120 grit stone package??? I cut for 2 hours and only removed .002, this stuff is hard! I looked at some better cutters for Sunnen and there are many but I think I will take the block over to Burtonsville Performance and use the same money to let them wrestle with the block. Good cutters are expensive.
From what ive been told, a coarse stone will get you there. Although, my source said with a machine and some time with coarse stones, no additional boring needed. Only problem I see here is no stress plate in use. Im sure you measured the bores in multiple locations. Measuring out a cast iron block cylinders do show bore distortion but not like an aluminum block. One reason I dont want to mess with them. I havent gain enough experience in this department yet. My friend claims a stress plate is absolutely necessary for the aluminum block. So in short....probably a good idea to let the experience finish the block. They will have all the nick nacks to do it right.
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Well.. My racing sources say never use a torque block on a Ford aluminum block, that they come out much straighter without them, so now we have a conundrum...
Odd....very odd
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And I used ARP main studs and not stock bolts when torquing down the main bearing caps before starting on the bore honing so that is going to put a different profile on the bores.
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I started having problems with the passenger door not closing, it has never had much use and now it was perfect for 20 years. I took it up to the my buddies body shop and had it checked out for 40.00 on the frame machine. The amount of data I got on the car is huge, here is the print out. Some of the big numbers are from having spacers under the front sway bar. Well worth the money and I wish I had done this years ago, I had no idea....
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Time for the moderators to push this over to the build section?
