VIDEO ADDED!-Car won't idle right...can't figure it out..

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Here is what I was getting at
http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=25

Ok, in that link it mentioned that on vehicles with a tfi mounted on the distributor, that it's a good idea to replace them both. Even though our cars don't have them on the distributor, would it be worth trying to go ahead and replace my ignition control module too. Chances are I can return it if it doesn't fix anything, I have a good friend at the parts store here who can help me out.

 

[PonyGlued]

Ok, in that link it mentioned that on vehicles with a tfi mounted on the distributor, that it's a good idea to replace them both. Even though our cars don't have them on the distributor, would it be worth trying to go ahead and replace my ignition control module too. Chances are I can return it if it doesn't fix anything, I have a good friend at the parts store here who can help me out.

No, That would not be a good idea. I only posted that so that you would see what it should look like, and for you to check the location of that timing cup for #1 as I was talking about in my other post. If it is not about to read #1(thin vane) then that could be it for you, the answer....so in other words when you look inside the distributor the thin vane that travels counterclockwise, is just about to meet the PIP for reading

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

No, That would not be a good idea. I only posted that so that you would see what it should look like, and for you to check the location of that timing cup for #1 as I was talking about in my other post. If it is not about to read #1(thin vane) then that could be it for you, the answer....so in other words when you look inside the distributor the thin vane that travels counterclockwise, is just about to meet the PIP for reading

Ok gotcha! I'll go back out in a few minutes and check on that. Btw, thanks for all the help so far!

 

[9838stang]

I don't even think these cars have crank sensors? I don't remember one anyway. I've also pulled all my plugs out and wiped them clean, they had a bunch of black crap on em.

thats right the 94-98 v6 and 96-98 gt are a distributor less motor. so they cranks sensor is not on the 94-95....

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

If it is not about to read #1(thin vane) then that could be it for you, the answer....so in other words when you look inside the distributor the thin vane that travels counterclockwise, is just about to meet the PIP for reading

Everything was where it should be and still no better. Everytime is the same thing.

 

[PonyGlued]

Oh alright...was the thin vane#1 just touching the right hand side of the black area of the PIP?

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Oh alright...was the thin vane#1 just touching the right hand side of the black area of the PIP?

Yes, it was. I wish I could teleport one of you guys here to help me out lol.

 

[PonyGlued]

Hmmm, I wonder if you should suspect a gasket leak or something related to the fuel delivery and firing

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

I don't know what to suspect anymore haha. I even thought I may have gotten a bad-outta-the-box distributor but who knows.

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

If you want, I can take another video of the entire process. (Pulling spark plug, balancer on 0*TDC, re-stab dizzy, etc) and see if you notice anything wrong.

 

[PonyGlued]

I don't know what to suspect anymore haha. I even thought I may have gotten a bad-outta-the-box distributor but who knows.

You know that did happen to me, I went through three 5.0 distributors in a row in a one or two week period. All of them were rebuilds, and finally I ordered a brand new one #4 and that fixed the problem. Anyway 2 of the three acted just like the problem you are having now, the third one just died and never restarted...so a big yes, you could have a bad one absolutely!! and its always best to change the TFI when you change the PIP(they advice). If you have a Chilton they have a complete walk through for testing the various ignition system components, but it makes you want to pull your hair out while reading, but they can be tested.

 

[PonyGlued]

If you want, I can take another video of the entire process. (Pulling spark plug, balancer on 0*TDC, re-stab dizzy, etc) and see if you notice anything wrong.

I think that you probably have all that right, I drive around with a spare TFI just in case. Maybe your next move should be to try a different TFI

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

This one is a new Rich Porter brand, but who knows how reliable they are. And I'm currently uploading anoter video to YouTube, when it gets done I'll add it to here. (you'll just have to excuse my accent lmao)

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

[video=youtube;TqPrQ8hlKAk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqPrQ8hlKAk&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]

 

[PonyGlued]

Yea maybe you should contact the distributor people and get an exchange on it, or maybe they send you a new PIP(be careful of static). Then also put in a new TFI at the same time...sorry ICM ignition control module, TFI was the earlier name for it

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Progress report: Today I replaced the TFI/ICM whatever. A buddy of mine came over this evening to check the car out. He tried to get the timing set but it still kept idling bad. He decided we should check out the injectors to make sure they didn't have any trash in them. So we pulled the intake and checked the injectors, all of which looked to be clean. Upon bolting the fuel rail back down, one of the bolts was being stubborn and wouldn't tighten down all the way without feeling like it was about to pull a thread. So after getting everything put back together and firing the car up, we discovered that there was a fuel leak where the injector goes into the fuel rail, caused by the bolt not being tight enough. So tomorrow after work we're gonna pull the upper back off and tap out the hole.
We also checked the fuel pressure, it read 38psi. Once we get the fuel leak fixed we are going to hook up his scanner to it and check the codes and see what comes up. He seems to think the computer is telling it that it needs more fuel than it does cuz it keeps flooding out so bad. Hopefully we can figure something out tomorrow, if not it's going to a shop to let someone else check it out. At this point I've done about all I can/know to do with it.

 

[Addermk2]

dude, you cranked that distributor god damn near 40-50*

i really mean you no disrespect, but you clearly haven't got a clue what the hell is going on. take it to a mechanic.

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

dude, you cranked that distributor god damn near 40-50*

i really mean you no disrespect, but you clearly haven't got a clue what the hell is going on. take it to a mechanic.

None taken. I'll admit that I didn't know but I had to try something. The guy I had helping me today knows his stuff but if we don't get it, it will definitely be getting put into someone else's hands.

 

[Addermk2]

Get a DVOM (multi-meter)

put the crank back to zero and turn the distributor until the black line is aligned with your rotor. rotate the distributor about 1/8" clockwise and lock the hold down bolt in place. put the cap back on and re-install your SPOUT.

start the car and let it idle. allow the car to warm up to operating temp.
unplug the coolant temp sensor on the black heater core hard tube (right behind the thermostat housing)
measure the resistance across the two leads in the connector on the sensor.


post the results

 

[9838stang]

From what i read, now i may be wrong.... but if the car sat for so long, could there possibly be a bad intake gasket... have you tried spraying starter fluid around the intake...