Vortech v1 and gears.

Motojoe

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So when I bought my mustang I settled for a 96 gt. I wanted a fox body but I couldn't pass up on this car. 73k miles. All stock. One owner. After owning the mustang I realized the 2v is a pig. I want to do some work to it but I do t want it to be a money pit like my previous cars. I contacted a shop near me for some advice. Very reputable. He says the pi swap isn't worth the time and effort and to look for a used v1 kit on Craigslist. Then I asked if doing 4.10's now would be worth it and he told me 1st and 2nd will pull stronger but after that it will fall on its face. Do the gears when i do the charger. So not I'm kinda stuck. I want to start modding but who knows when I'll find a cheap vortech kit and will I be stuck with 4.10's and be unhappy. Also a part if me says sell it and the 3k I'll invest, put towards a cobra. Also will my stock clutch hold the power of the vortech charger. Sorry to vent guys. Just looking for some other advice.
 

Pete@FTR

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I would go with the v1. But, I have to say PI head/cam/intake swap makes more power and is easier to do than a full pi engine swap. If you do both, beware that the added compression from the pi headswap *can be* dangerous for forced induction
 

97stanger

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Don't waste your time putting a supercharger on a stock non pi motor. Complete waste of money.
 

slow90coupe

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Nothing wrong with a NPI 2v car with a V1 or V2. My setup rolled out pretty good for what it was. Vortech, full exhaust, gears, and a PI intake manifold will help that car get moving.
 

Musturd

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I would go with the v1. But, I have to say PI head/cam/intake swap makes more power and is easier to do than a full pi engine swap. If you do both, beware that the added compression from the pi headswap *can be* dangerous for forced induction


Since when is 10-1 dangerous ? Just curious
 

Pete@FTR

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Since when is 10-1 dangerous ? Just curious

I don't know a lot about forced induction, all I know is higher compression is not preferable. Also its 10.5:1

Thats why I said *could be*. I don't know, I thought i'd bring it up
 
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Motojoe

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I know now the npi motor isn't the best but I feel like a pi swap will cost me close to that amount and not give me as much power. And I'm not selling the car so I have to work with what I have. With that being said, do you think 4.10's would be a good start for now and when it's time slap on a v1? Or are 4.10's too much gear. I keep hearing 2v motors work well with 4.10's because of the lack of torque.
 

g36 monkey

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4.10s will be fine, some people prefer 3.73, either way you will feel a difference.

If I were in your shoes, I would get a PI intake at least, maybe not the heads and cams for now, though all of that can be had cheap.

Then get some 42lb injectors, and the blower.

The upgraded parts will be able to make more power on less psi, and therefore a bit less stressful to the engine as a whole
 

Musturd

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A little bit of compression added with a blower = loads of fun and torque :) . My next vision is a pi swapped vorteched sn95 just because I can easily find a decent one for 2k on the regular .

Boos is the best
 

nightfire

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420rwhp here and 4.10's. It doesn't fall on its face at all after 1st/2nd. Your "shop" is misinformed. My max MPH is about 120, but that's enough for me.

Boosting on a complete NPI motor is a waste. All that money for the blower setup and you see low 300's @ the wheels.

A PI swap is more than affordable. Just look for used PI heads (with cams) and used PI intake. Not hard to find and dirt cheap.

Don't worry about the compression. It all comes down to octane and tune. You can run 12:1 and 16psi without problems. You just have to use good fuel and a tune with less timing.

With all that.....I'll say that there is NOTHING like boost. Boost is god in the car world!
 

97stanger

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Nothing wrong with a NPI 2v car with a V1 or V2. My setup rolled out pretty good for what it was. Vortech, full exhaust, gears, and a PI intake manifold will help that car get moving.

Yep, with a PI manifold definitely a nice little moving car. What I meant by a "Stock NON PI motor" was untouched NON PI heads, non pi intake, non pi cams. I agree, if going with a PI manifold and a blower, now its a car that can get up and move a bit with the right gearing and transmission. But slapping a blower on a bone stock non pi platform will just make the OP upset.
 
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Motojoe

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Thanks guys. I was thrown off when the shop steered me away from 4.10's. They seem like the go to gear for the 2v guys. With that being said, I was up all night looking at pi manifold and cam threads. I'm surprised you can pick up close to 30 rwhp with just the manifold and cams. I think the new plan is that plus the 4.10's and wait till I come across a good deal on a v1. 30hp should be a noticeable difference while driving and the gears will wake it up a bit. I don't want to start a new thread for the pi stuff, and you guys have been very helpful. If you have any solid info on the pi stuff please fill me in. I read cams from a 01 are easier to install. How hard of a job is it? Seems like a full weekend job. What might a shop charge. For a few hundred it might be worth it?
 

Musturd

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If it's a stick car I wouldn't do 4.10's and a blower I'd go with 3.73's
 

97stanger

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Thanks guys. I was thrown off when the shop steered me away from 4.10's. They seem like the go to gear for the 2v guys. With that being said, I was up all night looking at pi manifold and cam threads. I'm surprised you can pick up close to 30 rwhp with just the manifold and cams. I think the new plan is that plus the 4.10's and wait till I come across a good deal on a v1. 30hp should be a noticeable difference while driving and the gears will wake it up a bit. I don't want to start a new thread for the pi stuff, and you guys have been very helpful. If you have any solid info on the pi stuff please fill me in. I read cams from a 01 are easier to install. How hard of a job is it? Seems like a full weekend job. What might a shop charge. For a few hundred it might be worth it?

Good stuff man. The PI manifold is a cheap/easy swap that will do wonders on a boosted non pi motor. Just an FYI, I would highly consider not touching your non pi cams if you are going to be going boosted down the road. PI cams have more lift, but less duration than stock non-pi grinds, which is exactly what a blower does NOT want. I swapped from stock non-pi cams to PI cams back when I was new to the game and don't remember exact #'s, but I think I picked up nothing or even lost power possibly. This was years ago, but boost was going right out of the exhaust due to going with the higher lift and less duration cam. I would either stick with stock non pi cams, or if you are planning on keeping your heads go with a nice set of MHS non pi blower grinds.
 
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Motojoe

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On a side note, I picked up the bBK cold air intake last night for 20 bucks. I spoke to two mustang performance shops in my area. Both of them told me doing the manifold was a waste of time. They said using the RV T sealant on the coolant channel will leak eventually. They said years ago they used to make an adapter plate but it's no longer available. I actually found a used 99 manifold on craigslist for very cheap but now I'm second-guessing doing it. Both shops wanted me to do a tune to make some more hp. Do you guys think just doing the manifold will give me noticeable power increase? I don't think the super charger is happening right away so I want to do some things I can enjoy now.
 

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