Wanting 350-400 hp, on3 turbo, what else do I need?

Road_Runna

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Like the title says. I have a 255 lph fuel pump already installed.
So besides the kit on3 sells, what else is needed for 340-400 hp?

Is a microsquirt ecu needed? If I do get microsquirt or megasquirt does my car still need to be taken to a tune shop?
 

ttocs

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It does not need an offboard ecu but some tuners are just use to tuning different systems specifically. If you do not know how to tune it then you either get to learn, or take it to someone or do a remote tune.
 
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Road_Runna

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It does not need an offboard ecu but some tuners are just use to tuning different systems specifically. If you do not know how to tune it then you either get to learn, or take it to someone or do a remote tune.

I'll be on the "get to learn how to tune bus", I don't need the car ASAP, so I've got time.
 
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Road_Runna

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Reading off the efi "microsquirt" website it says: "the MAF sensor is not used, making microsquirt excellent for boosted applications.

So does this mean using microsquirt, I won't need a MAF sensor calibrated to 36 lbs? And can run my stock MAF meter with 36lb injectors?
 
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sluggish94

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Reading off the efi "microsquirt" website it says: "the MAF sensor is not used, making microsquirt excellent for boosted applications.

So does this mean using microsquirt, I won't need a MAF sensor calibrated to 36 lbs? And can run my stock MAF meter with 36lb injectors?

The MAF sensor is deleted.
You won't need a MAF sensor.
The Microsquirt uses a 3-Bar MAP sensor and has a vacuum port built in to the ECU itself which draws vacuum directly from the intake manifold.
You use a software like Tuner Studios to calibrate the Microsquirt to your injector size, negating the necessity for a MAF.

Quite frankly, you're on the edge of needing larger injectors if you go with the 36's and want to hit 350-400HP with Forced Induction. You'll be pushing the duty cycle of those injectors to their maximum and here's the math to prove it. These figures represent HP at flywheel, not HP at the wheels. Divide the injector flow rating by .5 and multiply the results by the number of injectors. This uses a 100% duty cycle. This would be for a naturally aspirated engine.

36 / .5 = 72

72 x 8 = 576 HP

A safer duty cycle is around 85%, so lets multiply the result by .85:

576 x .85 = 490HP

If we calculate a 15% drivetrain loss (if you're running a manual transmission):

15% of 490 = 73.5

Minus 15% drivetrain loss:

490 - 73.5 = 416.5 HP

So as you can see, if you'd like to safely reach 400 wheel HP with Forced Induction, it would be wise to look into selecting a larger injector. Since you're looking into a standalone ECU, I'd pull the trigger on some 60lb or 80lb Siemens Deka injectors. You have the computer to tune them with so it's a good investment. If you step up in cylinder head or turbo size you'll already be set with the appropriate injectors. FWIW I run the Siemens Deka 60's on my turbo SBF and that one is a stock longblock. You'll easily make 400+ with the stock engine, all it needs is fuel delivery and tuning. You're on the right track with the Megasquirt.
 

tvsn95

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I absolutely agree with sluggish94, 60lb Siemens are the way to go. also you really do need to use a diff ECU. the old 95 and older are obsolete and problematic, they only made the 94-95 those 2 years and are rare to find that are any good. My tuner likes Holley stuff , but ?? I use the original ECU and a Quarterhorse.. I would NOT recommend it.
you will run out of fuel system above 450hp or so but that can be done with 42lb inj. I don't recommend that either.
I have had decent luck with the 340l intanks up to 520 or so. then lines get restrictive.
As you learn to tune remember ,,,,fuel first then timing....and when you start pull almost all the timing out,,say down to 15 all the way except idle. also the 10 degrees that you set the dist to IS accounted for in your setting....learn learn learn
Good luck and I hope ya don't break as many parts as I have LOL
 
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Road_Runna

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I got so hyped up because on3 is selling kits for the 1994 gt's again, that I forgot the weakest part of my build: which is the t5 wc tranny.
Is there any way of running a turbo kit at the threshold of the tranny's 310 torque rating? Until I can afford a tko600 in about a year? I can HOLD OFF bumping up the horsepower for a while, but for now, I would just enjoy the bells and whistles of a 300 hp driven turbo in the Stang.
 
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sluggish94

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I got so hyped up because on3 is selling kits for the 1994 gt's again, that I forgot the weakest part of my build: which is the t5 wc tranny.
Is there any way of running a turbo kit at the threshold of the tranny's 310 torque rating? Until I can afford a tko600 in about a year? I can HOLD OFF bumping up the horsepower for a while, butfbut now, I would just enjoy the bells and whistles of a 300 hp driven turbo in the Stang.

In my opinion, you'll be fine if you take it easy.
The stock components are stouter than people give them credit for.
The last time I saw someone break a T-5 it was because they mis-shifted, not because the transmission wasn't holding the power. Just my experience.
 

ttocs

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I just really want to make sure we are talking to a guy that is ready for an offboard ecu install and tuning? Are you going to tune it yourself?
 

sluggish94

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On the topic of standalone ECU's, and which one would be a best choice for you, consider your combination goals and what features you'd like to incorporate into that build.

A few choices:
Microsquirt
Megasquirt
MS2PNP
Stinger Performance PIMPXS
Holley EFI
Pro-M EFI
 
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Road_Runna

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O
I just really want to make sure we are talking to a guy that is ready for an offboard ecu install and tuning? Are you going to tune it yourself?
Ohhh yeah, I will be doing the tuning myself, this isn't my daily driver. I'll have plenty of time to learn it.
 
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ttocs

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O

Ohhh yeah, I will be doing the tuning myself, this isn't my daily driver. I'll have plenty of time to learn it through and through.
it sounds like your at about the same point I was at. I have wondered more than a few times just how far over my head it got with my holley hp.
 
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Road_Runna

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"over my head" quote is spot on! I'm waiting on a new 2nd gear for my "being" rebuilt t5, a on3 turbo is so tempting, even if it means using the lowest 6 psi spring the on3 representative mentioned.
 

ttocs

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as long as someone has not told you its "plug and play, self learning it does it all on its own". That statement is so true, and soooo very untrue...........
 
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Road_Runna

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Decisions, decisions, I'm even thinking of going back to the automatic transmission! I still have all my aod-e tranny stuff and I know I can pick up a 4r70w tranny from the pick-a-part place.

I should of really thought of future motor upgrades when my aod-e took a poop, instead I was so pissed off, I decided to run a t5 wc setup for easier servicing and rebuild.

Then again it's more money for a torque converter with anti ballooning plates and a tranny cooler.
 
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tvsn95

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Tranny depends on what you want/need. IF you put a serious clutch in the car and hit full boost in any gear that the tires don't break loose, your T5 will be toast. it won't matter if its during a shift or NOT. 335ftlbs is NOTHING for a turbo . If you want to drag then an Auto will be faster and tougher. The TKO 600 fits well but shifts like crap. I broke mine on a hard shift into 3rd. Broke teeth off of cluster. I now run a T56 Magnum. very nice 6 speed, shifts like a little car . Live and learn
 

sluggish94

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Tranny depends on what you want/need. IF you put a serious clutch in the car and hit full boost in any gear that the tires don't break loose, your T5 will be toast. it won't matter if its during a shift or NOT. 335ftlbs is NOTHING for a turbo . If you want to drag then an Auto will be faster and tougher. The TKO 600 fits well but shifts like crap. I broke mine on a hard shift into 3rd. Broke teeth off of cluster. I now run a T56 Magnum. very nice 6 speed, shifts like a little car . Live and learn

Yea, my friend with a Coyote swap wasn't happy with his TKO600 either. Went T45 instead and runs a Spec Stage 2 clutch.

I'm using a T-5Z and a Spec Stage 1 Clutch for now behind my turbo setup. This same clutch and transmission held up well with a 125 dry shot before I went turbo. We will see how long it lasts.
 

ttocs

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I can't remember but don't you need to swap to a tubular K member for either the pushrod or the mod motors? I thought you did for one of them but can't remember which
 

evilcw311

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I can't remember but don't you need to swap to a tubular K member for either the pushrod or the mod motors? I thought you did for one of them but can't remember which

Mod motor guys have to. Pushrod motors are smaller in size so not a big deal.


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