Water pump stud just keeps spinning

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by PRO5OHHO, Mar 5, 2015.

  1. PRO5OHHO

    PRO5OHHO New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2008
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    94 5.0L here. Trying to replace my water pump gasket, hasn't been off the car in 10 years. Bolts aren't giving me much resistance coming out, but the one stud right above the water pump is giving me problems. I've been applying about 15 lbs of force consistently to get it out, I've gotten it to back out about 3/8ths of an inch, but no matter how many more revolutions I make on the ratchet, it just keeps turning and turning and won't come out any further. At no point did it feel like I broke the stud off so I'm perplexed as to why it's just turning and not coming out. Is there another nut on the stud somewhere between where the stud goes from the block through the timing cover and then through the water pump? I don't see what's keeping the stud from coming out.

    I know these things are notorious for breaking water pump bolts if you've put too much pressure on them, but I don't think it's broken. I've circled the stud in question in the picture.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. KillNThrill24

    KillNThrill24 Legend

    Messages:
    7,472
    Likes Received:
    408
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Location:
    Cleveland Ohio
    Take a flat head screw driver and pop it underneath the head of the bolt, and push up on the bolt while you're trying to extract it
     
  3. PRO5OHHO

    PRO5OHHO New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2008
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    That's the best suggestion I've seen yet! Thank you, I'll try that.
     
  4. kb1982

    kb1982 Active Member

    Messages:
    591
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2013
    Location:
    Kentucky
    Have you tried turning it with a wrench to make sure the stud and not the nut is turning. Could be the threads on the stud has stripped out by the nut and allows the nut to turn but not come off the stud. If that is the case, weld the nut to the stud. This will ensure the stud turns with the nut, but the heat also helps free it up. Be sure to unplug the battery cables before welding, and I like to unplug the ecm also.
     
  5. PRO5OHHO

    PRO5OHHO New Member

    Messages:
    23
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2008
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    thanks y'all!! I used y'all's advice and used the wrench, plus using a pair of vise grips on the shaft where there are no threads and a little wiggle motion and some pulling. Plus the occasional hammer tap. I wouldn't have thought to use the vise grips if I hadn't seen what you said about the flat head screwdriver trick KillN, so thanks!
     
  6. CC'S95GT

    CC'S95GT Legend

    Messages:
    10,738
    Likes Received:
    172
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2008
    Location:
    Hampton ,Ga.
    Now that you know the bolt is broken, you're going to have to remove the timing cover and remove the broken bolt.
    Ck the Haynes manual to see how much stretch is acceptable without replacing it.
    And you're going to need new gaskets too. and a crank seal.