What’s that sheathing behind the door cards?

Daryl

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It’s a thin, white vinyl or plastic(?) sheath for water repelling? Mine is all but falling off after I removed the door card to put on new speakers. Black electrical tape didn’t hold. So, anyone know: 1. What that sheet is called? And 2: what do you use to adhere it back on? There are actually remnants of black tape that reminded me of a cheap version of my old hockey stick tape that were apparently used from the factory... If that helps describe what I’m talking about!

Many thanks
 

07GtS197

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Its a moisture barrier, don’t know if it goes by another name. You could use some super glue to get it back on but I would only use it in a couple of spots as I’m sure one day you’ll have to tear it off again. The ones on my old 00 gt were torn because I had to go into the doors a few times and I didn’t have any issues.


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Daryl

Daryl

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Same page! I thought of using Gorilla Glue, but for the same reasons you just mentioned, I decided not to. Would love to find out what that tape is, get a roll or two of it, use what I need for now, and save the rest on a shelf for the next time I need it (which, invariably, we both know will happen again!)

Cheers and stay healthy!

*** UPDATE*** I just called a local auto store. They recommended spray adhesive. Why didn’t I think of that?! So I’m thinking: a light dusting of that, secure it in place with blue painters tape, let dry, remove tape and viola! I think the spray adhesive would be easier to remove, if necessary down the road, than super glue or gorilla glue. That stuff’s forever!!
 
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ttocs

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spray adhesive should last just long enough to put the door panel back on but its not going to do anything when it starts to get damp/wet. sound damping material works pretty well.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Double-stick tape? Or too thick?
 

ttocs

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its the water resistance you need to be concerned with. It will get damp/wet/dirty and that just leads to failure on most adhesives. I used dynamat or second skin is my personal fav.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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How will sound deadener keep that sheet in place? Isn’t it too thick for the door card to seat up correctly against the door again?
 

ttocs

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I am sorry its not used as an adhesive, as a replacement. Just put a sheet of dynamat or second skin across it and not only will it sound better by blocking out road noise but that materials adhesive is made to go there and will not break down.
 

TheOdessa

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I used sound deadener in place of that stuff. Makes the door sound much much more solid and eliminates rattles (I upgraded my door speakers to aftermarket components) and kills exterior sound. Win Win.

Everything in my car is sound deadened without any issue. It was part of a mission I had years ago to make the cruise inside the cabin as comfortable as possible.

I personally used FATMAT brand off ebay for the bulk of the car. In smaller areas I used KILMAT off amazon when the fatmat ran out and didn't want to buy bulk. Make sure to clean the surface before applying and use a roller designed for the stuff.

When you close your door it'll sound much more solid and not so hallow as well.
 

evilcw311

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Use Tyvek house wrap tape

Don’t use products intended for the outside of a house in your vehicle. They’re generally not meant to be used in an enclosed area where heat can affect them and your lungs could be exposed to anything.


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TheOdessa

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Don’t use products intended for the outside of a house in your vehicle. They’re generally not meant to be used in an enclosed area where heat can affect them and your lungs could be exposed to anything.


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100% this. There's a reason they make specific products for specific application. Also your nose will hate you as well. Stuff like this stinks.

Sound deadening material meant for automotive applications are so affordable now there's no reason to cheap out.
 

Adfalenski

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The plastic is a rain barrier. It keeps the water that leaks past the window seals from coming farther into the door panel. Usually the bottom of the sheet of plastic is tucked into slots near the lower edge of the door to direct water back inside the door away from the inside door panel so that it can drain out the bottom. There are also drain holes at the very bottom of the door at the pinch-welds so the water does not pool in the door and rust it out from the inside. These holes need to be kept clear to prevent door rot/rust starting from the inside bottom edge of the door.

I would recommend the non-hardening body caulk strips from 3M to hold the plastic on the doors. Considering the age of these cars, eventually you are going to have to get back inside the door to replace glass, door lock actuators, window regulator, etc.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Another project checked off the list!

The 2 front replacement speakers FINALLY arrived from CJ Pony Parts so in they went along with newly refurbished driver side door card, new lock knobs and shifter knob. Whoo-hoo!

As for adhering the rain barrier material, I opted for, and am very pleased with the result I got from Flex Tape Seal. Yes, that looney guy on TV, “Phil Swift for Flecks Theal” (must be read with his pronounced lisp!). I’ll be damned, stuff works great! Water proof. Came in a 4” wide x 5’ long roll. So I just cut a series of 3/4” strips and worked my way around the edges. Worked great and goes on like DynaMat, so you can use your fingers to really jam it down for adhesion.

I can just hear you guys saying, “really dude, Flecks Theal”? But trust me, worked like a charm. Did the whole driver side perimeter + about 1/3 passenger side and have a lot to spare.
 

ttocs

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even the tyvek would have worked for a while but we will have to see what the long term usability is. The strip caulk would have probably been cheaper and certainly better.
 

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