what clutch and parts would you recomend?

ttocs

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I have my motor out and starting to get to paint and trying to plan on having everything I need to put the motor back. I know with the vortech that I should be upgrading the clutch and with the motor out this is probably the time. I am only aiming for 400 hp and mainly for street use but it will occastionally see the track. Also curious what throw out bearing would be recommended as the one I have in now started squeeling 3 weeks after it was installed so I would like to try and get something that would not do that this time. Any other parts I will need or should replace while I am in there? Thanks in advance.
 

RichV

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I've had great experience with the Exedy name. Personally and a lot of my competitors use them. I had the Stage 1 and it was not too much stiffer than stock on the pedal, but definitely handled the abuse from racing. Ford racing's TOB is supposed to be the best, I used the Exedy one in the kit. It did fail before the clutch.
 
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ttocs

ttocs

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thanks both for opinions on whats good and bad. Much appreciated. Just need to figure out how to pay for it now. paint was a tad more then I thought it would be.... Any recommendations where to get this from would also be helpful.
 

the5.ohh

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RAM HDX. Rated for 450 ponies at the crank. Love mine! Grabs nicely, nice and somewhat stiff pedal (compared to new cars) Idk how stiff or soft the stock clutch is in these cars. Ford oem throwout bearing only!
 

the5.ohh

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If you order from AM, I have a 6% off code if ya need it PM me [MENTION=11896]ttocs[/MENTION]
 

kb1982

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My clutch setup was around 200 bucks for everything from a clutch place called KyClutch. It was built using a rebuilt spec stage 4 pressure plate, and a custom 6 disc puck that they build in house. The clutch holds great, but it does chatter alot, grabby as hell, and has high pedal pressure. I told the owner about my intended usage for the car, and that was what he thought would work the best and informed me it would have the above mentioned characteristics. If you do talk to them, be truthful with your intended usage (rear gear, gonna run slicks or drag radials, how much hp you think the car makes, whether the car see's alot of bumper to bumper traffic etc). Also a good idea is to pickup some new pressure plate bolts also. I snapped 3 of them damn things of torquing them down, and i was shocked how they broke before I reached the torque value (which is pretty low around 24). I dont drive my car alot, so I havent put many miles on it since the clutch was installed, but everytime I take the car out, it gets flogged on hard.
 

mikey94gt

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I'm rocking the center force dual friction in my white car making roughly 500rwhp. No problems. My DD, which is a fairly stock 95 GT, has a king cobra. Only problem I've had with the king cobra is the clutch release bearing that came with the clutch failed.... I popped in the FRPP heavy duty one about 400 mile ago. I've had good luck with the king cobra too... Helped a friend put a nitrous 4.6 well into the low 11's for two full seasons of drag racing and street use, never did fail. He ran slicks too!!

ive also had good luck with the ram HD series clutches. Had one in my white car for a while. Only thing I don't like about ram, and centerforce, is you gotta buy a clutch quadrant and cable. I like my street cars to be headache and adjustment free haha.
 

BigBore96

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Why would he need to stay away from centerforce? My dual friction in my car is amazing.
 

kb1982

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I had a Centerforce DF in my car for awhile, and it refused to hold. When I swapped it out, the disc had lots of material on it, but the pressure plate and disc were glazed over. It stunk up the the whole garage when I swapped it out. It had great pedal pressure, and great mannerisms, just not holding capacity. There have been quite a few post on CF clutches not holding on other forums. Ive heard from a couple clutch builders that the weights are just a sales gimmick. These guys build clutches for everything from semis to pulling tractors. They rebuild pressure plates, and they didnt even want the CF unit. My experience with it was behind a 347 with TFS heads, Holley Systemax intake, with a v2 supercharger making 14 psi, and a 3550 with 26 spline input shaft.
 
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ttocs

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so a exedy clutch, Ford racing TOB and a Steeda clutch quadrant adjuster and is that all? Anything else good to do while I am this deep?
 

Orange 94

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If you need a new cable remember to stick with ford... All aftermarket are junk.
 

KillNThrill24

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I'll definitely agree on the cable. I bought an SR (back before I knew what I was doing) kit with the quadrant, firewall adjuster and cable. Within 2 days, yes 2 days the cable was snapped. So I replaced the firewall adjuster with a steeda a buddy had, and purchased a MM cable right away. MM is Ford OEM replacement. Had it in for over a year now and it's been beaten on hard with no issues.

Clutch game is an iffy one. Everyone has their opinions on what clutch works and what clutch doesn't. I've hard guys praising centerforce like it's god's gift to clutches, and I've heard guys hating them with all they have. Same thing can be said for Spec and Exedy. Not sure what it is about clutches but seems like most people could have great experiences with them, while others have terrible experiences. Kinda like MMR... But that's another story for another time. The only clutch brand I know of that's been proven to work time, and time again is McLeod. You'll almost never hear of a complaint about them. If I decide to T56 swap instead of 4R70... I'll be buying one myself. BUT like I said it's a crapshoot man. I say find the brand with the most positive reviews and go with them
 
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ttocs

ttocs

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see above I was told all aftermarket cables were junk and to stick with ford racing. Also how come that cable goes through 95 and the ford racing stops at 93?
 

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