What Did You Do To Your Car Today?

white95

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I've had it fail a couple times in the last 10yrs. Always have one on hand. It has to be the Bosch LSU4 they sell because others don't work in the HP realm, unless you want to get the NGK for twice that amount. At least that's what I've been told. The Sniper and Terminator X are different. All good though, at least I can get it running quick. Good thing I have my LCD screen with optional tunes installed to get me going. I had to talk a buddy of mine through what to do when he got stranded on the road once.


This is what I used. Maybe it’s the I’m wrong about 4.2 vs 4.9.. I do recall stressing over which sensor to buy.

IMG_1969.jpeg
 

Daryl

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Watched some Warhorse and Riner videos and decided to pull my dash out. And since that car is at my work, also logged a couple hours overtime. Even managed to stumble across the original window sticker for the car hiding in the dash.
View attachment 43616
Quite a lil’ project you’ve initiated there, yikes! Would be cool to see a picture of the original sticker, iff’n ya don’t mind ;-)
 

weendoggy

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This is what I used. Maybe it’s the I’m wrong about 4.2 vs 4.9.. I do recall stressing over which sensor to buy.

View attachment 43632
Well, that's not exactly the same as the LSU4 Bosch that is used on HP ECU's to my knowledge. They have seven wires to their plugs.

Not sure what the Monkey part does without the "left out" wire or how good/bad it makes thing. With that adapter, what is the O2 you're using and did it make a big difference? Other than perhaps cost. The LSU4 is a wideband as well.

20250422_100408.jpg
 

white95

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Well, that's not exactly the same as the LSU4 Bosch that is used on HP ECU's to my knowledge. They have seven wires to their plugs.

Not sure what the Monkey part does without the "left out" wire or how good/bad it makes thing. With that adapter, what is the O2 you're using and did it make a big difference? Other than perhaps cost. The LSU4 is a wideband as well.

View attachment 43678

Fired up, gave an AFR reading and runs fine...

Until it doesn't. Good point on the 7th wire. I didn't research this.
 

weendoggy

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Fired up, gave an AFR reading and runs fine...

Until it doesn't. Good point on the 7th wire. I didn't research this.
For whatever reason, Holley has it "calibrated" for them and there are two resistors, one on each of the brown wires off the O2 plug in the harness wrap. Not sure what/how it works but I haven't tried anything different.
 

white95

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For whatever reason, Holley has it "calibrated" for them and there are two resistors, one on each of the brown wires off the O2 plug in the harness wrap. Not sure what/how it works but I haven't tried anything different.

Not sure how true this is but I was told it had to do with them heating quickly.

Perhaps I’ll try another Holley sensor and see if that helps.
 

weendoggy

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Not sure how true this is but I was told it had to do with them heating quickly.

Perhaps I’ll try another Holley sensor and see if that helps.
Could be. They heat in 20sec, NTK 60sec. Bosch has 5ms response, NTK 50ms.
 
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ttocs

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The other day I was washing it for the 2nd time ever and noticed I had already collected a couple of small rock chips on the bottom 3" of the car again because it curves in so much. I noticed that subaru actually texture coated this area so that touching it up will be easier but I thought a decal over the area will also help. I didn't want anything too racarish since I am only rocking 152 hp, but wanted something that still looked cool/different and after some looking around because of the honeycomb design in the seats and red stitching
I went with this.

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The first one came off perfect, the 2nd one though the red line was cut a little too deep and while trying to separate the decal from the wax paper it tore right from the start. I tried for 30 mins to get it separated but gave up and now I am trying to decide if I want to get some red pinstripe tape or tear the stripe off the car.
IMG_20250423_142054334_HDR.jpg
 

ttocs

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after installing that decal there was a white line along the door lines that was visible from some angles and just drove me crazy as it broke up the whole design. I cut a piece of 3/4" wide gloss black vinyl that I laid down in the door sills to cover the white area. While I was doing that I could not help but notice that the flat black areas between the windows seemed to break them up and thought it would look better if they were gloss. I had the vinyl, so I tried it out and I can say I like it better.
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in the garage before/after
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and outside

IMG_20250425_135142990_HDR.jpg
 
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white95

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How is the Holley going to have 12v power? It wants 12v from battery direct leads. I understand the reason, just not sure how that isolator will work.

That is one thing I’ve never liked about the Holley instructions. Works but isn’t ideal for every scenario. That is Isolator is a solid state relay to interrupt power when activated.
 

ttocs

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I kinda thought the same thing when I installed mine and ran the power wire up to where the alt power wire split off to the batteries but it was up front, batteries in the back. I must have had some voltage issues or something as I ended up switching it and running it to the battery in the back. I think part of it is just how the electronics can react to spikes that are high/low, taking out as many things that are in the way that COULD cause a problem probably saves them countless problems right from the start. I would probably say try it, worst case you can switch it however couldn't you use one of the voltage outputs on the isolator to run to an input on the holley to tell it when the switch is pushed and what to do when it does?
 

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