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A quick look and it looks like the RF is running dually's.
What Did You Do To Your Car Today?
- Thread starter Rallim
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WARNING: This is a lengthy read....
Well, here I go again. I'm no mechanical/electrical genius, but Holley has their head so far buried up their own ass they can't fix a damn thing! I'm on my....wait for it....5th Dual Sync distributor, either repair or new. What happened, don't know, but the failure rate for me the last 4yrs has been a PITA! Just recently, I posted about my O2 failure and put the tune in Open Loop to get home. I put the new O2 in and drove to get gas (3mi) and got on the freeway (mistake) to get home. It didn't make the on-ramp merge. Put it in Open Loop again, thinking the O2 was bad and it turded itself with rush hour traffic, so off the highway into a small turnout.
However, I carried the brand new Dual Sync and small tools to replace it in the trunk, just in case. Lucky me, I popped the hood and trunk, proceeded to do the exchange right there. I bet folks were either laughing or whatever, but I was determined to figure this out. Easy part is, the Dual Sync is a snap to change. Get to TDC, rotate to 50° BTDC, un-plug, remove the distributor, stab the new one, plug it in, rotate to watch the LED's, tighten down, put it all together and go. Started right up and drove OK all the way home. Then I got the timing light out and did my fine tuning. I was only 20° off so not bad. Could've done it on the freeway (had the light too) but decided to wait. After, drove it down the road and it runs just like before.
Today, I go to bkfst so it's going to get a test. I do have my RTR in the trunk in case the BRAND NEW Dual Sync craps out as my backup. So, now I'm back to figuring out how to get a 36-1 or 12-1 Crank Trigger to work with a distributor. I'll use the distributor just for spark delivery. I run into issues (because my head doesn't work) about how to get the timing on the distributor to sync/phase. I have some work to do, but I'm going to hopefully solve this problem.
One other note: Holley has said all this crap about grounds and power connections and that has all been done a long time ago. This HP has been in my car for over 11 years and the wiring has NOT changed since then. The first Dual Sync lasted over 4 years. So, I highly doubt it's the system wiring. Oh, I'm going to put the old O2 back in to make sure it's still good, I believe it is.
Here's a couple short datalogs I took while it happened and after I fixed it...AGAIN:
Well, here I go again. I'm no mechanical/electrical genius, but Holley has their head so far buried up their own ass they can't fix a damn thing! I'm on my....wait for it....5th Dual Sync distributor, either repair or new. What happened, don't know, but the failure rate for me the last 4yrs has been a PITA! Just recently, I posted about my O2 failure and put the tune in Open Loop to get home. I put the new O2 in and drove to get gas (3mi) and got on the freeway (mistake) to get home. It didn't make the on-ramp merge. Put it in Open Loop again, thinking the O2 was bad and it turded itself with rush hour traffic, so off the highway into a small turnout.
However, I carried the brand new Dual Sync and small tools to replace it in the trunk, just in case. Lucky me, I popped the hood and trunk, proceeded to do the exchange right there. I bet folks were either laughing or whatever, but I was determined to figure this out. Easy part is, the Dual Sync is a snap to change. Get to TDC, rotate to 50° BTDC, un-plug, remove the distributor, stab the new one, plug it in, rotate to watch the LED's, tighten down, put it all together and go. Started right up and drove OK all the way home. Then I got the timing light out and did my fine tuning. I was only 20° off so not bad. Could've done it on the freeway (had the light too) but decided to wait. After, drove it down the road and it runs just like before.
Today, I go to bkfst so it's going to get a test. I do have my RTR in the trunk in case the BRAND NEW Dual Sync craps out as my backup. So, now I'm back to figuring out how to get a 36-1 or 12-1 Crank Trigger to work with a distributor. I'll use the distributor just for spark delivery. I run into issues (because my head doesn't work) about how to get the timing on the distributor to sync/phase. I have some work to do, but I'm going to hopefully solve this problem.
One other note: Holley has said all this crap about grounds and power connections and that has all been done a long time ago. This HP has been in my car for over 11 years and the wiring has NOT changed since then. The first Dual Sync lasted over 4 years. So, I highly doubt it's the system wiring. Oh, I'm going to put the old O2 back in to make sure it's still good, I believe it is.
Here's a couple short datalogs I took while it happened and after I fixed it...AGAIN:
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
just because the wiring has been there for 11 yrs does not mean that some corrosion could have snuck in somewhere, creating some resistance and when it is not bad enough to kill power completely it can make electronics very very unhappy. If you have not checked all your grounds you should and by check I mean remove, clean both surfaces and then retighten. It also would not be a bad idea to unplug any harnesses you can reach and look inside of them to ensure that some water didn't make it way in and cause problems.
I have been running my stock dist with my HP but I have a dual sync I found used a while back. I have just been waiting for the stocker to crap out to do the swap and it has not given me any problems.
I have been running my stock dist with my HP but I have a dual sync I found used a while back. I have just been waiting for the stocker to crap out to do the swap and it has not given me any problems.
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I should clarify a few things: my system has been checked, several times, and as lately as a year ago when all this started up again. I pride myself on the work I do and have done others setup the same way, both Dual Sync and CNP's without incidents...yet. I have gone as far as checking each wire to the ECU just being anal and although Holley or anyone else doesn't know what we do, I can honestly say the system is tight! The engine/chassis/battery is over the top analy wired. This is the first thing Holley or anybody else says, so I'm always a step or two ahead of them.
I can put the R-T-R in the car, like it was for 5 years and run it just fine using the same ECU harness. This is an issue with the POS they sell and there are horror stories to back it. However, I will do what I need to make me comfortable, and that will be to put a Crank Trigger on and get it right. I have a buddy that's going to make a new "arm" for the sesnor and my timing pointer as they both take the same spot. He's a wiz at this! Ater that, I'll be changing another buddy's setup to the same. He's mechanically challenged and couldn't "fix" his if it broke down.
I will be reaching out to Holley and MSD this coming week to find out what they intend to do. I will even send my ECU to them for shits and giggles to test.
On the bright side, I put 100 miles on today and breakfast without an issue with a brand new out of the box replacement....AGAIN!
EDIT: Forgot to mention Cobra sees about 3k mi/yr and the repaired distributor was done in Sep. 2024 (do the math) with about 800mi since then. Also got the brand new one at the same time. Track day at Laguna in 2 weeks. Taking the RTR for back up.
Last edited:
Gave it a bath
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Dang man, hope you have a ladder, chain hoist and/or sky-hook to get that done. Either that or some good helpers while you sip your specialty.
Honestly the bronco is a breeze to clean. The truck on the other hand definitely hurts the knees to get up in the bed. That is really the only thing I miss about the newer f450 I had. The sweet ass tailgate step!!!!!Dang man, hope you have a ladder, chain hoist and/or sky-hook to get that done. Either that or some good helpers while you sip your specialty.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
its the little details. I added the red stripe on top of the black decal.
AND in good news I think I finally figured out last night the back problems that have been slowing me down are not my back but my hip. I have been wanting to work on the mustang but my lower back has been bugging me for the past few weeks if not months. Last night it got worse and seemed like it was off to the left just a tad, more like my hip. I did some stretching which for eds people means I almost had my foot behind my head when suddenly my leg made and extremely uncomfortable movement as it slipped back into the hip socket and slammed into my tailbone. I am use to my joints popping/snapping back into place but this was more like the thump from a bass drum and for a few seconds I was waiting for the pain of what ever damage I just did to set in, and then I realized %85 of the pain was instantly gone. My dads side of the family has a history of hip problems and then add in my EDS crap and I am wondering how long it will be till they want to replace my hip. It was sore this morning from all the irritation of it being out but thankfully it has gone away as the day went on.
AND in good news I think I finally figured out last night the back problems that have been slowing me down are not my back but my hip. I have been wanting to work on the mustang but my lower back has been bugging me for the past few weeks if not months. Last night it got worse and seemed like it was off to the left just a tad, more like my hip. I did some stretching which for eds people means I almost had my foot behind my head when suddenly my leg made and extremely uncomfortable movement as it slipped back into the hip socket and slammed into my tailbone. I am use to my joints popping/snapping back into place but this was more like the thump from a bass drum and for a few seconds I was waiting for the pain of what ever damage I just did to set in, and then I realized %85 of the pain was instantly gone. My dads side of the family has a history of hip problems and then add in my EDS crap and I am wondering how long it will be till they want to replace my hip. It was sore this morning from all the irritation of it being out but thankfully it has gone away as the day went on.
cobrajeff96
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Replaced all the cross-axis joints on the IRS as well as the two front wheel bearing/hub assemblies. Damn, this car is easy AF to work on.
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Nothing to my cars today, but helped (I did most the work) a friend install a 1 1/2" drop Koni setup in his newly acquired S197 2012 Mustang. He used BMR stuff and included an adjustable rear panhard bar. Took me (us) about 5hrs to do front and rear. Struts in front were nerve-racking when I thought my compressor wouldn't do it, but had just enough threads to release the old springs. New install was a snap.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I have been doing a little more tweeking on the stereo I installed and it keeps surprising me how good a simple $800 stereo can sound. I am just amazed how low the 6x9 components go and the under seat subs are just the ticket to fill in where they can't. With door and dash speakers the soundstage is both deep and wide, I have never had two sets of speakers up front and always been jealous of the foxbody set ups for having that option.
cobrajeff96
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Ditched the Evan's Waterless Coolant and went back to the tried and true 50/50 mix with some Water Wetter. I tried the Evans for about two weeks and was not getting a good feeling about it at all. Right away, I noticed the coolant fan would activate a good 5 to 10 degrees hotter than normal. Didn't freak out but I paid attention.
A couple of recent days were around 80 - 85 F ambient (warm but not hot like Florida is where I'm from). And fuck I noticed the coolant fan was coming on despite going about 100mph down the autobahn, so there was plenty of air moving across the radiator. It stayed on for a few minutes and I'm sure glad I made an LED indicator circuit to tell me whenever the radiator fan activates.
It would take nearly twice as long for the system to shed away heat with the Evans coolant inside, as indicated by the in-cabin fan activation LED. I might've just been overly anxious but I thought I noticed a slight loss of power, like the ECU was pulling away timing out of safety.
Bad experiment. FAFO.
A couple of recent days were around 80 - 85 F ambient (warm but not hot like Florida is where I'm from). And fuck I noticed the coolant fan was coming on despite going about 100mph down the autobahn, so there was plenty of air moving across the radiator. It stayed on for a few minutes and I'm sure glad I made an LED indicator circuit to tell me whenever the radiator fan activates.
It would take nearly twice as long for the system to shed away heat with the Evans coolant inside, as indicated by the in-cabin fan activation LED. I might've just been overly anxious but I thought I noticed a slight loss of power, like the ECU was pulling away timing out of safety.
Bad experiment. FAFO.
Replaced the headlights with cobra-style ones.
It was a good bit harder than expected because I had to do drill two holes for the EUparking lights. Also it turned out that the new plastic "nuts" that fix the adjustment screws are a tighter fit than the stock ones. After they popped into place, I couldn't remove them again with pliers or the 12mm box wrench. I had to cut them down and use the old stock ones.
Any idea where I could buy such "nuts" that are like the stock ones?
It was a good bit harder than expected because I had to do drill two holes for the EUparking lights. Also it turned out that the new plastic "nuts" that fix the adjustment screws are a tighter fit than the stock ones. After they popped into place, I couldn't remove them again with pliers or the 12mm box wrench. I had to cut them down and use the old stock ones.
Any idea where I could buy such "nuts" that are like the stock ones?
badass98svt
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Are you talking about those pronged bullet nuts that need to be pinched to remove the lights?
Good to know and thanks for the follow up, Jeff… which I’m glad I waited for. I’m still running 50/50 with Water Wetter and aluminum radiator and it’s been working as it should. Auto meter gauge stays at 190* under normal driving and fan kicks on when it gets in the ~210* range (+/-)
I may have something in my baggie of bits & pieces leftover from previous headlight headaches! So can you post a picture of what you need, where it’s located, etc? FWIW, I h8 doing the headlights! For me, it’s not so much the R&R, it’s the adjusting. I even took it in the shorts and bought that ratcheting headlight adjustment tool from LMR, which didn’t do squat to adjust the beam.
Good on ya, Weendoggy! I’m sure your friend was grateful for your time, help and know-how. I’ve been in his shoes countless times. One of the best parts of getting involved in a hobby is the learning and camaraderie, IMO.
And 5 hrs?? Sounds like pretty good work for front, rear & Panhard. Noice! ++
Pics, or too late?
I mean these ones. This is the stock one above. This is the aftermarket bullet after I cut down the left side to remove it. You see their "shoulder" is much thicker.
LMR does not ship international and CJpony has horrible shipping fees to Europe :-(
I have found some aftermarket on ebay that look reasonable, maybe I will try those, or I'd be happy to buy 4 pieces from you if you are willing to sell. :-)
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