What kind of subs for volume more than bass?

Lightning Struck

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I have been out of the car stero game for a few years now, and im wondering what kind of subs are good for volume more than bass? I like to have my music loud rather than bumping ;D Can I get some suggestions please? Im expecting a nice Pioneer cd deck for Christmas so subs will come RIGHT after I get in put in.
 

Fets

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how about 2 of these?

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Lightning Struck

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Uhhhh, I think those might be a little big :-\ :-\ lets find something a little smaller ( not often you hear guys saying that ::) ) I was thinking a set of 10's :dunno:
 

Matt94GT

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JL make very nice subs. I have been out of the game for a few years too but Crystal used to make nice sounding subs. What your looking for is more of a SQ (sound quality) sub rather then SPL (loud ass bass lol).

Look for sleeker designed subs, ones with massive surrounds and magnets lots of the time are just marketing gimmiks but they are also usually the SPL style of subwoofer. :banana:
 
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Lightning Struck

Lightning Struck

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Matt94GT said:
JL make very nice subs. I have been out of the game for a few years too but Crystal used to make nice sounding subs. What your looking for is more of a SQ (sound quality) sub rather then SPL (loud ass bass lol).

Look for sleeker designed subs, ones with massive surrounds and magnets lots of the time are just marketing gimmiks but they are also usually the SPL style of subwoofer. :banana:


thanks for the input matt :thumb:
 

Fets

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Alpine Type R's I heard are also pretty nice. If I where to buy subs, those would be the ones I'd buy. But I dont know too much about Car Audio either
 

badass98svt

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Too make it very simple...
A ported box will make less bass, but will be LOUDER
A sealed box will create deeper bass, but requires a higher watt amp to get the same "loudness" as the ported boxes.

I use 1 12" Kicker Solobaric in a .88 cubic inch sealed box (very small box) and a Kenwood 600 watt amp. I keep the gained turned about 1/2 way on the amp and it delivers plenty of bass with plenty of room for adjustment. I don't like a whole lot of bass either.
 
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Lightning Struck

Lightning Struck

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badass98svt said:
Too make it very simple...
A ported box will make less bass, but will be LOUDER
A sealed box will create deeper bass, but requires a higher watt amp to get the same "loudness" as the ported boxes.

I use 1 12" Kicker Solobaric in a .88 cubic inch sealed box (very small box) and a Kenwood 600 watt amp. I keep the gained turned about 1/2 way on the amp and it delivers plenty of bass with plenty of room for adjustment. I don't like a whole lot of bass either.



so does that one 12 give you enough volume to go deaf ;D I like mine LOUD :banana: :banana:
 

badass98svt

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Yes, it could. But if you want it LOUD with less bass, you'll want to port your box
 

G_94_T

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the only problem with ported boxes is they operate in a very narrow frequency band.....as far as the "loudness"
 

CanaryGT

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I have 1 Type R Alpine is a Custom Ported Box and It hits really hard, but it also sounds really tight. What kind of Bass response do you want? 12's IMO have the best of both worlds. I have had 10's 12's and 15's already so if you have any questions on Subs, Amps, or anything else let me know.
 

justinschmidt1

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check out car audio forums..theres a lot to learn there...alpine type rs are a good bet.
 

Fets

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I have 2 12" and when I listen to like rock, they dont hit that good compared to my friends 2 10"ers, but when it comes to like rap, or double kick drums, my hit like 20x harder.
 

98stang6

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Fets said:
Alpine Type R's I heard are also pretty nice. If I where to buy subs, those would be the ones I'd buy. But I dont know too much about Car Audio either

oh yeah, i have one 12" type R in a ported box. with a 600 watt alpine amp powering it. holy shit. it hits hard as helllllll. im actually thinking about selling the box/sub combo tho for some tens maybe.
 

lrall

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alpines are loud, which is why 3/4 of the kids at my HS have them, personally JL if my fav. my lil 10" JL can make my head hurt but my bros 12" w6 was like :noes: :noes: JL FTW
 

Shocker98GT

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Most "boomy" systems are so because of a poorly designed enclosure or poorly designed sub, or just the wrong choice for what vehicle it is in. Subs of a lower Qts have less resonance and a sharper rolloff toward Fs, meaning: a "tighter" sounding sub when put in an enclosure such as sealed, or infinite baffle (free air) for that matter. A good example of subs that are designed as such would be the Image Dynamics subs, some of the JL models (W1v2, W3, W6v2).

One of the better values on the market for such as sub is the Peerless XXLS car audio sub. They're well known for their home audio equipment moreso thancar audio, but regardless this particular sub offers excellent build quality, the design of the sub and sound quality is very comparable with something like a JL W6v2.

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=143&products_id=1678
 

brwillms

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I usually build sub enclosures to achieve a QTS between .8 and .85. This is usually a good sounding box that is still pretty accurate. The closer to .7 the Qts is the bigger the box will be and the less power the driver will be able to handle. The closer to 1 the Qts is the smaller the box. Speakers usually have a high SPL output at a higher Qts value (they also usually sound like shit). They will be more sonically loud and musical with a lower Qts. Most decent speaker enclosure design software will take into account a majority of the Thiele Small parameters and give you a good power range to use for the output and Qts you desire.
 
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Lightning Struck

Lightning Struck

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well since the cobra is sold, Im putting my Pioneer deck in the L and im going to get a single 10 or 12 sub to put in the L.
 

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