what to do with my engine

monkeydude3

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Okay well my 97 GT has 116000 miles on 'er. I've done a lot of just repair work and next is the engine. She's burnin oil and I'm almost positive it's the valve guide seals. When I had 5/30 oil in it, it would smoke like a banshee on hot startups and also after sitting at idle and when I first hit the gas. When I let 'er rip to redline, not a blurp of smoke, not a stumble, misfire, etc. Pulls hard for NPI but as is common for this head setup falls flat on it's face beyond 4800 rpm. I put in 10/40 oil with a pint of additive and the smoke has almost gone away, occasionally I'll still see a little bit after idling when it's fully warmed up though.

Did a compression test not too long ago and got about 150psi all around and this was on a cool engine. (can't compression test these hot as you probably know)

So I'm pretty sure my bottom end is fine. Question is this.. how long do the bottom ends last on these, N/A with light modification?

I was thinking of getting a PI motor but I'm not sure how much that would cost, because I've seen varying prices for low milage motors.

I am looking into doing a PI swap, complete intake and heads. I've thought about it and thought about it, and now that this car is not my daily driver, having 10:1 compression running premium would be worth the few bucks more a tank, on my weekend car. Also a blower is not an option at this point in my life and on this car, financially.

I was going to get a set of low milage heads and possibly a new intake, put in new seals (got um layin around), springs, and stage 1 N/A cams and put on a set of headers when they're back in the car.

I've seen kits for this swap that include the head bolts and all the gaskets required.

Any input let me know... I think doing a headswap may be a better choice for me right now on this car because the engine stays in the car and I spend less money and come out with a pretty good motor for my dollar.


George
 

DropTopPony

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just pick yourself up a complete swap kit....maybe do a stage 1 cam upgrade...the new power will add a smile on your face and all the parts are brand new. As long as your stock shortblock is good it will last a long time...
 

monkeydude3

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okay, cuz I have no knocks, no noises, no stumbling... just burns oil as I described and lacks power (NPI).

So I should buy a headswap kit, and then the cams, and put the new cams in the new heads? Leaving the stock cams aside? :) :)
 

monkeydude3

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monkeydude3

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Sweet I'll check them out. Thanks!!!!


EDIT: I see he has the stage 1 setup for 1500... i think that's gonna be my best bet.... sweet! Thanks again
 

rick focks

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holy cow, that's a great deal!!!! I'll pick up that stage 1 kit within the next few weeks, if I can find someone to install it reasonably cheap...

BIG THANKS FOR THIS LEAD!!!!!!
 

Shifty Powers

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listen to droptop lol.. but yes do a full PI swap and then throw in some cams... stage 2 would be great(least on new edges) ... but im guessing stage 1 is suggested so go with what the other guys say lol...im all about cammin crap as much as u can cuz i love the power and lope(wish i could do that for under a friggin grand) HA
 

monkeydude3

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Well ya'll I took my baby out for a spin today (sat for a week while we were on vacation) and there is no way the bottom end has any real problems. Cold start, no smoke, cold moderate acceleration, no smoke. I don't beat on it till it gets warmed up, but when to operating temp today I let it have it and for NPI I got 'er to spin 2nd gear... pulls hard right to redline and doesn't miss a beat. And when I'm lettin it wind out... no smoke... usually bad rings will smoke bad under load and high rpm.

Oh my I can't wait to do my head swap :-D :-D


One question... I'm not really doing any harm by running a heavier oil in there for the time being am I? All the gauges read fine and she runs smooth with no noises or anything, but it does drastically reduce how much smoke I get once it's warmed up.


Thanks all for the input and I am almost definitely going to order that kit from steen racing when I get the $ which shouldn't take too long.

One more question tho, it looks like the kit does not include valve covers... now do I have to buy a fresh set because these are PI heads? If so maybe I can get a nice set for some 'bling.'

George
 

DropTopPony

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No most of the PI swap kits come with new 04 heads and Intake which are Romeo same as 96-98 GT...so no need to buy valve covers...unless you want nicer ones.
 

rick focks

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Includes: 2 New 99+ Complete Heads, Head Gaskets, Valve Stem Seals, Valve Covers, Valve Cover Gaskets, Thermostat Gasket, TTY Head Bolts, 99+ Intake, Intake Gasket, Spark Plugs, Oil Filter, Oil Dipstick, Coolant Tube.

comes w/valve covers, looks like the only thing it'd need would be cams....
>:D >:D >:D
 

rick focks

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unless "complete heads" includes cams....
:banana: :banana:
 

monkeydude3

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ooooh thanks lol I guess I read it too quickly lol.

They do state that the heads are "Ready to bolt on." I can't wait...

see this video...

http://videos.streetfire.net/search/stage+1+cams/1/1726bdaa-f378-41d2-ac15-679e511f3c99.htm

If I buy that stage 1 setup from steenracing, will this video be a similar result? I love the lope, and when they show the in car bit, I like how it pulls all the way through the powerband and doesn't like "slow down" at the top end.


THanks all for your help. I'm really excited (haha) about gettin this setup because I know exactly how and where I'm gonna do it, have the place, the tools, the extra hands.... because we are moving out of this non car friendly home/neighborhood into a gearhead neighborhood into a house meant for a gearhead. A bunch of my buddys have cars that I am gonna try to keep up with here and right now I'm the slowest around because I'm NPI. I'm also going to look into buying the tuner/gear combo on 'americanmuscle.com' with 3.73s.

O sorry for rambling and dreaming I just had a great day and now my mind is onto cars

haha and no I'm not high


George
 

Rantheman

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I have a set of brand new valve guides I didn't use if you want em!!
 

ripper

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I think its easier to pull the motor when you do the swap. It can be dropped out the bottom with the k-member if you have access to a lift. This is the way ive seen it done.
 

monkeydude3

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welllll I don't have access to a lift, or I won't when the time comes to work on the car. And I work at a Ford dealer (for another few weeks) and I work right by the techs. I've seen dozens of modulars get heads put on with the engine still in the car. No Mustangs tho... lots of crown vics and trucks and stuff. I'm friends with a few technicians who let me watch how they do the swaps :)

I have two sets of valve guide seals. I had bought a set of fel pro ones to do just those on my engine and found the heads to be at an odd angle to repair while on the engine... and then a technician at work gave me a brand new motorcraft rear main seal and another set of valve guide seals. :)
 

96gt226410

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If you want to test your lower end, do a running compression test. Ask the techs at your job to show you. It's easy enough and it sounds just like what it is. I just sent the guys at Steen Racing an e-mail about the Stage II heads. If all goes well, those will be the heads I'm going to buy!!! :dancing6:
 

monkeydude3

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i know i've done um, just don't know the specs on my engine.

The normal compression test showed good, and seriously it doesn't miss a beat, and no smoke when I'm poundin on it... so I know the bottom end is fine. Just needs heads


i'm probably goin stage 1... but I always thought stage II and III required a forged bottom end...
 

96gt226410

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Just because you don't see anything coming from your exhaust doesn't mean the bottom end is fine. I would get the specs from your job and do the test. It doesn't take long on our engines...

You don't need to forge the lower end when doing Stage II's. I'm not going to forge my lower end right away. I'm going to have to wait until I have enough money to forge the lower end and then either blow it or give it a 100 shot.
 

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