--Whippy's Fun House--

[Musturd]

No kidding. I’ve been on the truck scene deep. Coming back to the Mustang I’m like “ohhh right. Spark plugs.”

if your wrists hurt then you’re not riding the bike correctly. Pay attention to other sport bike riders on the road. The guy’s whose wrists are hurting always have the straight arms and their toes sticking out like little wings.

The pegs should be under the balls of your feet and your weight being held by your thigh’s grip on the fuel tank. You should be able to let go of the grip mid-turn/mid-lean and have no difference in control.

Dude… your car is red now?

Thanks.

I think most guys on sport bikes have a crash story. A lot of recollection of what went wrong, schooling, and track time all make a better, safer rider very quickly.

No the yellow car got stolen 7 years ago or so . I got the red car a year ago.

 

[b1pig]

if your wrists hurt then you’re not riding the bike correctly. Pay attention to other sport bike riders on the road. The guy’s whose wrists are hurting always have the straight arms and their toes sticking out like little wings.

The pegs should be under the balls of your feet and your weight being held by your thigh’s grip on the fuel tank. You should be able to let go of the grip mid-turn/mid-lean and have no difference in control.

Not the stance. Wrist issues from a couple of hard tumbles I took in the Army. I can't even do pushups without lots of pain in my wrists. Getting up and down off the garage floor working on my vehicles is a gamble. I should have bought stock in ibuprofen a long time ago.....

 

[b1pig]

Welcome back dude


if you are lucky that is all they kill. I nearly died on mine being young and dumb but now that you mention it in the accident I broke my wrist in 3 places and had reconstructive surgery to fix it.

HAHAHAAA....
I used to joke my my ZX7 was "1st, 2nd, jail".

If I could have the ZX7 back as a secondary ride, I'd do it in a heartbeat.

 

[whiplash473]

Not the stance. Wrist issues from a couple of hard tumbles I took in the Army. I can't even do pushups without lots of pain in my wrists. Getting up and down off the garage floor working on my vehicles is a gamble. I should have bought stock in ibuprofen a long time ago.....

Fair enough. That’s a different story.

 

[whiplash473]

No the yellow car got stolen 7 years ago or so . I got the red car a year ago.

Oh man, that’s the worst. Nothing ever came of it?

 

[Musturd]

Oh man, that’s the worst. Nothing ever came of it?

No and it wasn’t insured . Parts didn’t even turn up .

 

[whiplash473]

(editing post. posting pictures from flickr is frustrating.)

With all of the freshening up of these parts that I'm doing, I decided to do a cleaner egr block-off than what was there when I bought it. Milled out the hole to tap drill diameter for 1/2-14 NPT and put a pipe plug in it.










I was also able to get my heater lines and new hoses in.





Cerokote parts curing and they'll be going on. Another couple days.

 

[ttocs]

if I were not using my EGR hole as an external AIT sensor location I would be trying to figure out how to hold my cobra intake to do that very thing. Nice and simple....

 

[whiplash473]

Stayed late again today to put a threaded hole in the thermostat gooseneck. @elrod gave me the idea to move the water temp sensor for the pillar gauge here. This way the reading will be from as close to the factory sensor location as possible.

Drilled



Thread milling



I was able to find one of these hydraulic plugs that will work perfectly.



Then the same process for the plug to accept the 1/8 NPT sensor





Done

 

[Musturd]

Now that’s sweet having access to a mill

 

[whiplash473]

the threads in the accessory bracket for the tensioner were FUBAR’d and I’ve been limping along by like two threads for years. Finally fixing it the best way I could figure out.

I decided to drill out the threaded hole that the tensioner bolts to and install what is essentially a pure-beef Helicoil by using a 3/4-10 set screw and tapping 3/8-16 threads through it to accept the tensioner bolt.

I didn’t feel like waiting until tomorrow to do this at work so this was the best that I was able to do at home.

Double nut the set screw to hold it in the vise without damaging the threads.



A carbide drill was no problem going through but if you’ve ever tapped a hardened screw you’ll know the key is a combination of patience and curse words.



Next was to drill/tap the bracket. This was a nice break after tapping the set screw.



Installed. Front side view.



I opted to not drill through the web since this will act as a stop to prevent the 3/4 screw from turning any further when installing the 3/8 tensioner bolt.



Most of it all bolted back together. A few small things and it will be ready to get back to tuning.

 

[Musturd]

the threads in the accessory bracket for the tensioner were FUBAR’d and I’ve been limping along by like two threads for years. Finally fixing it the best way I could figure out.

I decided to drill out the threaded hole that the tensioner bolts to and install what is essentially a pure-beef Helicoil by using a 3/4-10 set screw and tapping 3/8-16 threads through it to accept the tensioner bolt.

I didn’t feel like waiting until tomorrow to do this at work so this was the best that I was able to do at home.

Double nut the set screw to hold it in the vise without damaging the threads.

View attachment 24699

A carbide drill was no problem going through but if you’ve ever tapped a hardened screw you’ll know the key is a combination of patience and curse words.

View attachment 24702

Next was to drill/tap the bracket. This was a nice break after tapping the set screw.

View attachment 24703

Installed. Front side view.

View attachment 24704

I opted to not drill through the web since this will act as a stop to prevent the 3/4 screw from turning any further when installing the 3/8 tensioner bolt.

View attachment 24705

Most of it all bolted back together. A few small things and it will be ready to get back to tuning.

View attachment 24706

Mega flashback memory of the fuse box location . I remember you doing this way back . I like that can still access the fuse box and the bay looks clean and simple .

 

[whiplash473]

Mega flashback memory of the fuse box location . I remember you doing this way back . I like that can still access the fuse box and the bay looks clean and simple .

Yeah, that’s a constant source of aggravation for me, actually. I don’t know what to do with that. I made a door to go over it with a hinge so I could easily access it while keeping it covered for a clean look. It’s all the wires going to it that has prevented me from moving on with that. I’ll have to extend all of them. For now it’s just staying this way. I’ll post a picture of the door later if I remember. Chances are that won’t get any further attention until next winter.

 

[whiplash473]

Here’s the door I made. I have a hinge to mount to the door and I welded nuts in the plate on the engine bay. Still not sure what I’m doing with all of this.

 

[whiplash473]

Here’s the door I made. I have a hinge to mount to the door and I welded nuts in the plate on the engine bay. Still not sure what I’m doing with all of this.

View attachment 25058

View attachment 25059

 

[whiplash473]

Moving along.

New fuel lines.



Then I came out to the garage to see this. Turns out it was the thermostat gasket. After fixing it two more times finally the third gasket sealed and seems to be good. Not sure what the deal was.



I also decided to treat myself to some real springs instead of the cheap turds that I have cut to pieces over the years. I went with Eibach ProKit springs. I had these on my S550 and liked them a lot so I decided to give them a shot with the SN95.



I finally got my stainless brake hoses from StopTech. So now the Cobra conversion front brakes are finally done. I’ll probably bleed the system tomorrow night.



And lastly - FINALLY - I got this thing tinted.

 

[whiplash473]

Brakes are done. I really didn’t know how nasty the brake fluid was.





I decided to Cerakote the fuel filter hanger while I changed the filter. It was surprisingly crusty.



…and the mirrors. I had them spray painted gloss black but I like this better.



New battery. That always stinks to have to buy.



All stainless hardware finished up and gave everything a quick wipe down.



Finally got the car back on the ground and now it’s back to tuning. It’s been two months and I’ve forgotten a lot of it and it still seems that the car just runs insanely rich overall. So I’m basically starting from scratch again. I’m looking forward to rolling it outside but it’s back down in the 30s outside. Soon enough.

 

[whiplash473]

So then it was back to tuning.



I had it running until the thermostat opened to double check my wiring was good to go from extending the AEM water temp gauge wires. That part was good. As soon as the thermostat opened the temp matched the MS. So I shut it off (let off the throttle, haha) and checked out under the hood to make sure things were good. I noticed coolant dripping on the floor from the back of the block. Then tracked it up from there. At first I thought I had cracked a head and just about had a chest-clencher.



After a bunch of looking around I realized it seemed to be coming from my heater pipes I just installed.



So I pulled the CAI and throttle body and I’ll be dipped, the heater pipe has a pinhole in it.



So I’ll pull it all apart tonight and do my best to fix it.

Does anyone know what these pipes are actually made of? They are magnetic. I’m thinking about just TIG welding it as that would be the least amount of heat and also the smallest.

 

[whiplash473]

Not much to update. I had a nasty flu from Thursday to Sunday.

Picked up my rear tires yesterday.




Bead blasted the heater pipes. I still don’t quite understand what these are made of. It seems that they are a plated copper but I really can’t tell. The areas of copper that appear when bead blasting are very random.

I TIG welded the pinholes, of which I found three, at work and then headed home.



Before I resprayed them I decided to pull the threaded fitting off and replace the o-rings.



And I’m glad I did. The top o-ring was broken and the bottom one is about as flat as can be.



I shot them with Cerakote again. No picture but… they’re black.

Between this and the flu I had I’m about a week behind schedule. Not happy about that. But once the Cerakote cures I’ll throw everything back together and hopefully be able to get back to tuning yet again.

 

[whiplash473]

Big day yesterday. I got everything back together and no leaks - finally. I got it to idle at 900-1000rpm and was able to run it around the block for a shake down run. Very happy. Still have many hours of tuning.



Strange thing is after throwing in the new springs, my e-brake cables are rubbing on both sides. I bent the brackets down after taking this picture.



I think my power steering pump crapped out on me. The belt is riding too far to the rear on the belt tensioner. But I finally got it to run in its own, got the fan working, and no coolant leaks. Very happy.