OP
OP
70 A, Panasonic manufacture
White's '95 GT "Unicorn"
- Thread starter white95
- Start date
70 A, Panasonic manufacture
ttocs
Post Whore
70 amps per relay? better run 4 awg to it then
OP
OP
Trust me, I’m an electrician.
Every electrician I’ve ever met that thought they could wire a car ended up either not getting it right or they burnt their car to the ground!!!!! Lol
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OP
OP
Sounds to me like you know some idiot electricians.
ttocs
Post Whore
well I am sorry to say that he is right. The worst installs I ever saw were done by mechanics or electricians. I am talking twist nuts and solid core wire... Well then again there was the software engineer that hooked up a 12v lantern battery on the power wire to his amp that if was not in the top 2 was an honorable mention. Its not all the same stuff by any means. While I know car wiring better then most I am not afraid to say I took some electrical classes that included home wiring. With that being said I would still probably call my home wiring friend or pay someone to do anything like that around the house. As an electrician you would probably say that is for the best, it needs to be safe/pass code and on the flip side now I will say that the same should be true on your car. So while I know you make your living running wires I hope you are prepared to be confused/annoyed on this as it was at more then a few times I was.
OP
OP
I hear you. I'm not gonna pump my watts, pun intended, by listing my job responsibilities. Most of the time, I'm literally the Maytag man sitting around waiting for something to break. When it does break, depending on the equipment, we have a finite amount of time to restore it to service before we lose the entire complex. No pressure right?
Anyhow, I always strip, braid, solder and heat shrink my vehicle connections. Only neanderthals use wire nuts. In fact, I only butt connected the fuel pump wiring to hear it run. Which didn't happen.
Anyhow, I always strip, braid, solder and heat shrink my vehicle connections. Only neanderthals use wire nuts. In fact, I only butt connected the fuel pump wiring to hear it run. Which didn't happen.
OP
OP
Knocked a little preliminary work by updating some of the wire markers. Holley could’ve done a little better.
Such fancy
OP
OP
Installed the coil and injector harnesses:
Started to route the rest of the harness, Holley was very generous and left me with lots extra wiring.
To make things simpler, I decided to take the factory route:
What a freaking mess...
Started to route the rest of the harness, Holley was very generous and left me with lots extra wiring.
To make things simpler, I decided to take the factory route:
What a freaking mess...
So does it run yet? ;-)
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OP
OP
Battery relocation is 80% completed, like everything else on this car...
This portion of the wiring is not final. It may be slightly re-routed and pass between the K member and the chassis to attach to the starter.
The posisitve cable runs nearly the entire length of the run encased in 3/4” heated hose for a little extra protection.
I’m deleting the ABS system and decided to penetrate (heh heh, penetrate, heh) the grommet for the right rear sensor.
I still have to drop the fuel tank to secure the inner, threaded-rod to the trunk floor. I’m also going to run a ground to the engine block and also to the rear subframe via the rear, lower passenger seat belt mounting stud.
This portion of the wiring is not final. It may be slightly re-routed and pass between the K member and the chassis to attach to the starter.
The posisitve cable runs nearly the entire length of the run encased in 3/4” heated hose for a little extra protection.
I’m deleting the ABS system and decided to penetrate (heh heh, penetrate, heh) the grommet for the right rear sensor.
I still have to drop the fuel tank to secure the inner, threaded-rod to the trunk floor. I’m also going to run a ground to the engine block and also to the rear subframe via the rear, lower passenger seat belt mounting stud.
OP
OP
The need for an alternator harness came up and I decided to make one. After comparing the 4V, 2V & 302 harnesses I had on hand, the decision was made to modify the 302 harness for service. It was separate from the engine harness in 94-95 so now I can sell the others complete.
The main difference being the 2V and 302 had 3G alternators and the 4V has the 4G (thanks for pointing this out @LWARRIOR1016) The 3G alternators use a smaller, grey one wire connector at the alternator whereas the 4G doesn’t BUT the wire is there. Hmm, let’s see where it goes. No where!! Ford didn’t even isolate it. Wow...
4V harness
Wot in tarnation?
Laid the wiring down like I wanted it and secured it together with thin, vinyl splicing tape. I’m waiting for some split, braided loom to arrive and I intend to wrap everything to match the Holley efi harness.
This just shows where I used an adel clamp to secure the wiring for the oil pressure sensor away from the accessory belt drive. I’m planning to use a lot more of these convenient little bastards. This apparently is the way the military routes things on aircraft, according to my USAF mechanic homie, @mikey94gt
So, after that was “completed”, I remembered that I needed to tighten the AN fittings at the steering rack. That’s when I realized my error. The 45* fitting at the rack crossed over the straight connector and made it impossible to double wrench. So, I swapped the 45* out for a straight and changed the straight at the Tee fitting for a 90* and it worked like a charm. (This may be hard to tell in the pictures)
The main difference being the 2V and 302 had 3G alternators and the 4V has the 4G (thanks for pointing this out @LWARRIOR1016) The 3G alternators use a smaller, grey one wire connector at the alternator whereas the 4G doesn’t BUT the wire is there. Hmm, let’s see where it goes. No where!! Ford didn’t even isolate it. Wow...
4V harness
Wot in tarnation?
Laid the wiring down like I wanted it and secured it together with thin, vinyl splicing tape. I’m waiting for some split, braided loom to arrive and I intend to wrap everything to match the Holley efi harness.
This just shows where I used an adel clamp to secure the wiring for the oil pressure sensor away from the accessory belt drive. I’m planning to use a lot more of these convenient little bastards. This apparently is the way the military routes things on aircraft, according to my USAF mechanic homie, @mikey94gt
So, after that was “completed”, I remembered that I needed to tighten the AN fittings at the steering rack. That’s when I realized my error. The 45* fitting at the rack crossed over the straight connector and made it impossible to double wrench. So, I swapped the 45* out for a straight and changed the straight at the Tee fitting for a 90* and it worked like a charm. (This may be hard to tell in the pictures)
OP
OP
With all of that said, this is how she sits:
Ok, I still haven’t wired these tail lights up but I suppose I should while I’m in electrical mode!
Ok, I still haven’t wired these tail lights up but I suppose I should while I’m in electrical mode!
OP
OP
Also, I bought these:
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@Darhawk did this rendering a few years ago, I believe the matte black F14’s will look sweet on my white car.
OP
OP
Sold my other wheels to this gentleman and he sent me his front wheels in a partial trade. If they fit the rear like the offset suggests, I may keep them too.
Enkei RS05RR 18x11
Enkei RS05RR 18x11
ElrodKTPQ_89
Legend
So on your battery wiring, you went from battery positive, straight to the starter, and left all the other wiring intact? (I still haven’t done mine yet)
OP
OP
That is exactly what I did.
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