White's '95 GT "Unicorn"

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white95

white95

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I'd say you may have a little more power than you think with your phase 1 settings, especially if all the cams are in perfect sink with one another. How much boost are you going to be able to get away with? I like you plans, sound like a great project.

Oh yeah, I was conservative in my prediction because the engine is new. They always seem to make more power after they 'loosen up' some. The cams are set with the Ford timing procedure but have not been degree'd beyond that. The plan is to eventually update to a set of custom cams. I'm going to set it up with a flex fuel sensor because E85 is available really close to home.

Now about the boost. @lwarrior1016 set the rings for 20 psi and I'd imagine that would be pushing it on pump gas. If I want to keep the flex fuel option, I need to think 13-15 psi, to be safe. Currently, with the 3.5" pulley it came with, it has been said to make 13 psi with a stock diameter lower pulley. The my wife's S197 has a M122 that makes 10 psi and it's a riot. I can't imagine why 13 psi with a little higher compression wouldn't be enough for me. For awhile at least..
 

AStangThang

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Oh yeah, I was conservative in my prediction because the engine is new. They always seem to make more power after they 'loosen up' some. The cams are set with the Ford timing procedure but have not been degree'd beyond that. The plan is to eventually update to a set of custom cams. I'm going to set it up with a flex fuel sensor because E85 is available really close to home.

Now about the boost. @lwarrior1016 set the rings for 20 psi and I'd imagine that would be pushing it on pump gas. If I want to keep the flex fuel option, I need to think 13-15 psi, to be safe. Currently, with the 3.5" pulley it came with, it has been said to make 13 psi with a stock diameter lower pulley. The my wife's S197 has a M122 that makes 10 psi and it's a riot. I can't imagine why 13 psi with a little higher compression wouldn't be enough for me. For awhile at least..
I think it's going to run great my friend, those heads love the boost anyways, and 15psi sounds fun. Your correct on the engines loosening up and making more power. It takes 20k or 30k miles for an engine to really get in the groove. You can definitely tell when an engine is tight still, and you might laugh but I waited to about 15 k miles before I even took my car to 6k rpm, now it has 43k miles and getting heads/cams, and other goodies in the middle of March. Good luck with the build brother, it sounds like it will be a nice conservative engine, but with a nasty bite to it, and that's my favorite type.
 
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While getting the car ready to sit there longer, I decided to mock one of my new front wheels up.

18x9 +17mm

Back in the box it goes...

17B28F96-7F29-4C92-BD9A-A0E6C34DD0F7.jpeg 37412448-DEB1-4781-9FDB-F1FD285675DC.jpeg 5C752E08-E8B6-497F-A64E-5D8714A4E95E.jpeg
 
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Yep! You got a lot of work to do! Its gonna look awesome tho!

You got that right. My main problem? I’m guilty of starting too many sub-projects and being overwhelmed. Normally that’s when FUCK THIS takes over and I sell off thousands of dollars in parts only to start over again.

Really need help... :confused:
 

evilcw311

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You got that right. My main problem? I’m guilty of starting too many sub-projects and being overwhelmed. Normally that’s when FUCK THIS takes over and I sell off thousands of dollars in parts only to start over again.

Really need help... :confused:

Wait.........you mean you’d sell off tons of new never used parts????? Never......... [emoji1787]


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evilcw311

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Decided to install the ABS delete block today..

(Pictures pending)

I’d originally thought about that on mine. But I decided since the bay is empty right now that I’ll either just locate a set of non abs front lines or get a set custom bent.


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Since I decided the #2AWG wasn’t enough for my liking, I got my hands on some 3/0 welding cable for the battery relocation.








Oh no! This moron is cutting holes in his car!
1f635.png



















There is a big mess to be sorted through in the truck.



Preliminary routing is exactly what I was after but now I have to work on securing them safely.





Go back to sleep...

 
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Took some time today to “finalize” the engine compartment side of the battery relocation and to also install the O2 sensor.





The ground cable from the trunk terminates at the passenger side engine mount.





I followed the brake line and took care to keep it away from the exhaust.





This needs no explanation..





Didn’t have the proper size heat shrink so I will revisit that never.





Terminated the positive cable to the starter.





Overview at this point:





Mechanical grounding point!





One of the biggest mistakes people people can make when grounding electrical components is not properly preparing the area for a good connection. This is done by removing any paint at the termination point.





What are are you looking at?





Ta da...





Its ugly but have you seen the rest of the car!?





This was my preliminary route for the 02 sensor wiring...





...but I ran out of tywraps! Another time..


 

ElrodKTPQ_89

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Totally just completely stole your idea, I’m in the shop now doing it to mine lol.

And perks of being an electrician, I haven’t even thought of using a mechanical lug. I’m gonna have to snag one Monday when I get back to work.
 
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white95

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Totally just completely stole your idea, I’m in the shop now doing it to mine lol.

And perks of being an electrician, I haven’t even thought of using a mechanical lug. I’m gonna have to snag one Monday when I get back to work.

Nice lol
 

OLD H2S

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Good, good.. I did the same thing a year ago. NOW you have to keep an eye on every single hard point that both the + and - wires touch. Even scuffing on flat surface contacts for strange wear. I am surprised by the no worry areas from the MM suspension causing extra vibrations. Even the grounding wires must be kept in perfect shape or you will get strange "grounding loops" with differing resistance through out the chassis wondering why one side of the fuel injectors have different resistance than the other side as an example.
All seemed good at the start then I had to add extra grounds all around to get balanced out put from things like light bulbs. I am always adding more wire ties and insulation.
 
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Good, good.. I did the same thing a year ago. NOW you have to keep an eye on every single hard point that both the + and - wires touch. Even scuffing on flat surface contacts for strange wear. I am surprised by the no worry areas from the MM suspension causing extra vibrations. Even the grounding wires must be kept in perfect shape or you will get strange "grounding loops" with differing resistance through out the chassis wondering why one side of the fuel injectors have different resistance than the other side as an example.
All seemed good at the start then I had to add extra grounds all around to get balanced out put from things like light bulbs. I am always adding more wire ties and insulation.

Thanks for the heads up! I have some varflex braided sleeve that we install over electrical terminations in high vibration areas (vibration screeners/Rotexes, BIG compressors, etc) at work. My intention is to slip them on when I remove the cables for heat shrink.
 

ttocs

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another good piece of advice for grounds, add grounds to your heads. Between gaskets, coated bolts/studs the spark plugs need a solid ground to fire. I added an wire on the back of each one to the block.
 

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