White's '95 GT "Unicorn"

[white95]

Scored a bunch of spare stuff from a buddy who was going to toss it out.

1: Cobra bumper w/ header panel
2: Side skirts
3: Trunk lid
4: decent tail lights
5: Uber dark, ninja tail lights
6: decent drivers mirror
7: passenger side side skirt extension
8: rear quarter trim
9: Inner fender trim
10: A-pillar trim
11: sail panel trim
12: Momo Corse steering wheel, 90’s baby







Going to have this bad boy recovered in black leather with a red stripe at the top. This gives me an excuse to get a quick release hub.

 

[white95]

Ordered the circuit breaker and bulkhead fittings to finish the trunk side of the battery install.

 

[white95]

Got my Momo Corse steering wheel back from Chris Scow @ www.leatherwheels.com and he did a superb job.

 

[DKblue98GT]

Really nice work!

 

[white95]

The long stretches of inactivity just kill my enthusiasm for this project.

 

[ttocs]

The long stretches of inactivity just kill my enthusiasm for this project.

there was only a few times were I really got into a funk and didn't want to do anything to anything. Most of the time my enthusiasm is killed by the fact that when it seems like I am making forward progress, I find something else that is wrong.

 

[white95]

Day 38 at work and I'm starting to lose it

SO, since the work load has shifted to "hot stand-by", I checked my build log and decided it was time to order some of the less glamorous stuff needed to finish a few projects. First, I need to tackle the rear end. I'm going to drain the gear oil and 'start fresh' so that I know exactly what fluids I have. TO THE INTERNET!!!! After being confused by the Eaton's recommendation for gear oil and then embarking on an hour long crusade for the truth, I've decided to run Torco RGO 80w90 in my 'new' rear end. Why?

Detroit Truetrac High quality mineral gear lubes are required for use in Detroit Truetrac differentials. Regardless of the lube type, always use a GL5 rated lube with the least amount of friction modifier. Mineral lubes lacking friction modifiers (limited-slip additives) were historically recommended for all Truetrac applications because friction modifiers can slightly reduce the bias ratio (limited-slip aggressiveness) of Truetrac differentials. However, to address the continually increasing power outputs of modern powertrains, many vehicle manufacturers have switched to synthetic lubricants as a counter measure for increased axle temperatures and prolonged service intervals. In general, consult the vehicle owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommendations for lubrication type, weight and fill volume. This will ensure lube compatibility with the seal materials and bearings used in the axle. Eaton Performance technical support is available for any concerns in lube selection.

A quality petroleum (mineral) based oil is recommended. Synthetic oils and friction modifiers should not be used, as they will decrease overall performance.

Clear as mud right? The general consensus from Eaton Tech support is that their Truetrac diff *will* work with synthetic gear oils BUT will have a lower friction bias when compared to conventional oil. Thank you google.

Also, I need to strip it, clean it and POR 15 it prior to installation. Which shouldn't be too difficult but I only have about 30 minutes in the evening to do so. I have at least 9 more days to go at work but I'm on call that weekend too.



*sigh*

 

[OLD H2S]

IMHO it depends on how it feels at your torque level..
I had to play with weights and types to get it right. If it is "pinching too tight" then a different "slickness" is needed for the street or your application. Most of the information listed is bias towards drag racing and then it all makes sense because you want every bit of hook up in a straight line but if your digging out of a tight hair pin turn at low speed and loading it up with max torque and you do not like the chatter from a mineral oil then you have to make a choice. And also part age of the wear disks and type of material...bla bla bla...

 

[white95]

IMHO it depends on how it feels at your torque level..
I had to play with weights and types to get it right. If it is "pinching too tight" then a different "slickness" is needed for the street or your application. Most of the information listed is bias towards drag racing and then it all makes sense because you want every bit of hook up in a straight line but if your digging out of a tight hair pin turn at low speed and loading it up with max torque and you do not like the chatter from a mineral oil then you have to make a choice. And also part age of the wear disks and type of material...bla bla bla...

That is a good point. My use will be a mixture of driving to work/cruising, autocross and unceremoniously beating the snot out of it at times. My diff has a helical gear set that prefers something less slippery hence the omission of the FM. Time will tell, I like the idea of trying different fluids to “see what works best”.

 

[white95]

Placed an order for banjo bolts, some Powerstop Track Day pads and I'm going to try these Power stock [stock] calipers that I found on RockAuto:

 

[white95]

Got called into work really early so, I left early and took some time to begin preparing the “new” 8.8 for this weekend. Did so by removing the calipers + brackets, rotors, brake lines + brackets and the old shocks. Yukon Gear is sending me some new axle stickers!








Yukon 31 spline axles



LPW Ultimate 8.8 differential cover (duh)



Strange Engineering c-clip eliminators with tapered bearings.

 

[white95]

Ordered a set of stainless brake hoses from Stiffler's Suspension to add to the rear end project:

 

[evilcw311]

Ordered a set of stainless brake hoses from Stiffler's Suspension to add to the rear end project:

So stiffler did what to your rear end?? [emoji1787]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[white95]

 

[white95]

More scrubbing after work...

 

[white95]

Also ordered ARP extended wheel studs to match the front.

 

[DKblue98GT]

I have those same calipers, no complaints. I like that C clip eliminator kit. What is left to get it on the road?

 

[white95]

I have those same calipers, no complaints. I like that C clip eliminator kit. What is left to get it on the road?

Let’s see...

1. Wire relays for fuel pump, fan and HVAC
2. Install new rear suspension and rear end
3. Install new brake stuff, connect lines and introduce fluid
4. Finalize battery relocation
5. Leak test fuel system
6. Introduce PS fluid
7. Upload start tune and fire it up
8. Leak test and bleed brakes
9. Leak test PS system

 

[white95]

I’m sure I’ve forgotten some stuff but it’ll all come to light as time progresses.

 

[white95]

Ordered an ARP balancer bolt to install this expensive chunk of metal I have in a box.