White's '95 GT "Unicorn"

MustangChris

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Did jacking up the front of the car work on helping remedy the air bubble?

Did you maintain the heater core?
 

Shaggy

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Instead of sulking and having a bad evening I just dug into it. At first, I didn’t see the issue because I was looking for signs of obvious wear.


Quickly found these loose cam phaser bolts and fixed it. Had to step out for a stupid shallow, 12 pt, 10mm socket so this repair cost me $4.75.

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I think the next turn would’ve spelled disaster. Talk about a close shave with tragedy.
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Dude, nice save! Could've been even worse.
 
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white95

white95

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Did jacking up the front of the car work on helping remedy the air bubble?

I believe it is helping but I didn't see large amounts of bubbles exiting the system. Really was hoping for "massive fart in bath tub" style bubbles :)

Anyhow, the first time I used this method I screwed up. While the car warmed up, I noticed the level in the funnel was going up so I opened the air bleed screw. Level dropped some as air escaped. Did this a few times and when the car reached 220* on the dash, I shut it down and watched in horror as the water in the funnel was slurped into the radiator, undoubtedly with air as well. :mad: This meant I needed to start over. The next round I made sure to keep a constant level in the funnel and repeated the steps listed above. Now when you open the air bleed only water escapes. My plan is to repeat this a few more times before I move onto bleeding the brakes, again.

I don't have any pictures because I broke my phone, again :rolleyes: and I didn't feel like dragging the Nikon out.

I've also added a fuel level gauge to the Holley dash and I'm working on a custom layout. Next, I'll be adding turn signal and high beam indication to the dash. I'll have to tap into the signal wire for each, connect them to my dash harness as +12v inputs. Setting that up in the dash is as easy as this:


This is an older picture but I need to remove the dash and install wires to I/O PIN #2, 3 & 6 to accomplish this. I'll be using the old dash cluster wires circled in the picture below. The fuel sender/level is already terminated to I/O PIN #10.

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pinout95to96cluster_LI.jpg
 

ttocs

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I thought about connecting the dash to the signals and high beams but once I got the dash set up that I liked there was just not much space for much else. I also thought that the brake system would have a fault if there was no parking break light but I might be wrong there.
 
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white95

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I thought about connecting the dash to the signals and high beams but once I got the dash set up that I liked there was just not much space for much else. I also thought that the brake system would have a fault if there was no parking break light but I might be wrong there.

If you still have ABS then that’s a valid concern. I’ve been told the 94-95 cars have a “standalone” abs system so you could be ok.

I’d like to see your custom dash layout!
 
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white95

white95

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Revised list of tasks needing completion in order to drive the car around the block:
  1. Wire PWM to fan controller
  2. Finalize throttle cable
  3. Cold air intake
  4. Firewall adjuster/adjust clutch
  5. Belts/hoses/tensioners + bolt
  6. Coolant
  7. Install MM steering shaft
  8. Change rear end fluid
  9. Square K
  10. Front brakes
  11. Brake fluid + bleed
  12. Wheels/tires

The items above in red have been completed. I'm afraid the current radiator has to come out and I need to start over. The lower mounts are wrong, the filler neck has a crack and it has an oddball upper outlet configuration. It's cheap to try a traditional radiator.
 
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white95

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Didn’t get too much accomplished because why work week/weekend has been relentless. William dropped my old radiator off and we swapped it out. Found a hose that was close enough but wound up cutting it up to fit.

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Now that I have the upper hose in the traditional location my passenger side, cold air intake ambition has been shot to hell. It fits pretty damn good flipped around though!

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