OP
OP
I am also concerned about clearances. The side exhaust doesn’t excite me and it’s definitely plan C.
White's '95 GT "Unicorn"
- Thread starter white95
- Start date
I am also concerned about clearances. The side exhaust doesn’t excite me and it’s definitely plan C.
Snorky
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Do the full 3" over axle. It's going to be really tight on the passenger side
Frank.JD.Perez
Legend
my tips have never had a problem, or my mufflers, the part that actually would hit if it did was the part after the muffler that swoops down
OP
OP
Had to be a weird incline or something in the road too, right?
Frank.JD.Perez
Legend
More or less
OP
OP
Sitting around thinking about how the car drove since installing the 315’s, I started to research recommended tire pressures for the street. Soon, I realized I had no idea how much pressure was in them. Grabbed a pressure gauge and headed to the parking lot. My findings: 38 psi in the front pair and 36 RR + 24 LR 
Went back to the shop, grabbed an air tank and proceeded to set the tires to 34/30 cold.
After work, I hit the curvy road following the Mississippi River levee to gauge the results of my efforts. After several miles of driving, to put some heat in the brake pads, I turned up the speed and aggression. Quickly figured out that I could put power down much sooner than before. Started dumb shit like shifting down to second then going WOT post apex and they just ate it up.
What I liked the most? The fact I could downshift to 2nd then take 90° corners (ie turning right off a highway onto another highway) and actually power through the slide without the tail coming around. Lateral traction is so much better than the Federals.
The last hard turn I attempted was the decreasing elevation “clover leaf” exiting a bridge. My entry speed was around 50 and I pushed it to 65 but never once felt the tires ready to break. Perhaps that’s a bad thing on the street but I didn’t want to push my luck beyond that.
Can’t wait to see how they act in the cones!
Went back to the shop, grabbed an air tank and proceeded to set the tires to 34/30 cold.After work, I hit the curvy road following the Mississippi River levee to gauge the results of my efforts. After several miles of driving, to put some heat in the brake pads, I turned up the speed and aggression. Quickly figured out that I could put power down much sooner than before. Started dumb shit like shifting down to second then going WOT post apex and they just ate it up.
What I liked the most? The fact I could downshift to 2nd then take 90° corners (ie turning right off a highway onto another highway) and actually power through the slide without the tail coming around. Lateral traction is so much better than the Federals.
The last hard turn I attempted was the decreasing elevation “clover leaf” exiting a bridge. My entry speed was around 50 and I pushed it to 65 but never once felt the tires ready to break. Perhaps that’s a bad thing on the street but I didn’t want to push my luck beyond that.
Can’t wait to see how they act in the cones!
RAU03MACH
Legend
cone killerSitting around thinking about how the car drove since installing the 315’s, I started to research recommended tire pressures for the street. Soon, I realized I had no idea how much pressure was in them. Grabbed a pressure gauge and headed to the parking lot. My findings: 38 psi in the front pair and 36 RR + 24 LR
View attachment 23990
After work, I hit the curvy road following the Mississippi River levee to gauge the results of my efforts. After several miles of driving, to put some heat in the brake pads, I turned up the speed and aggression. Quickly figured out that I could put power down much sooner than before. Started dumb shit like shifting down to second then going WOT post apex and they just ate it up.
What I liked the most? The fact I could downshift to 2nd then take 90° corners (ie turning right off a highway onto another highway) and actually power through the slide without the tail coming around. Lateral traction is so much better than the Federals.
The last hard turn I attempted was the decreasing elevation “clover leaf” exiting a bridge. My entry speed was around 50 and I pushed it to 65 but never once felt the tires ready to break. Perhaps that’s a bad thing on the street but I didn’t want to push my luck beyond that.
View attachment 23989
Can’t wait to see how they act in the cones!
ttocs
Post Whore
I know tire selection and pressure was critical when I was cross country mountain bike racing and if your racing your car I would imagine it can't be any different.
J_lope82
Active Member
Thanks for reminding me to air up my tires man. They were low by 3-4 lbs.Sitting around thinking about how the car drove since installing the 315’s, I started to research recommended tire pressures for the street. Soon, I realized I had no idea how much pressure was in them. Grabbed a pressure gauge and headed to the parking lot. My findings: 38 psi in the front pair and 36 RR + 24 LR
View attachment 23990
After work, I hit the curvy road following the Mississippi River levee to gauge the results of my efforts. After several miles of driving, to put some heat in the brake pads, I turned up the speed and aggression. Quickly figured out that I could put power down much sooner than before. Started dumb shit like shifting down to second then going WOT post apex and they just ate it up.
What I liked the most? The fact I could downshift to 2nd then take 90° corners (ie turning right off a highway onto another highway) and actually power through the slide without the tail coming around. Lateral traction is so much better than the Federals.
The last hard turn I attempted was the decreasing elevation “clover leaf” exiting a bridge. My entry speed was around 50 and I pushed it to 65 but never once felt the tires ready to break. Perhaps that’s a bad thing on the street but I didn’t want to push my luck beyond that.
View attachment 23989
Can’t wait to see how they act in the cones!
OP
OP
This week’s installment of WTF broke this time brings another cooling fan issue up. Seems like this time last year I did this very task. Took the car around the way after installing the 3” catback (holy shit it’s obnoxious) and cylinder temps shot up around 240°. Got it home and it puked a little out of the overflow tank.
Found a melting fan connector but the circuit breaker didn’t trip. Ordered a replacement fan & harness connector but the long term plan is a brushless, Delta PAG setup like @lwarrior1016 has.
Stupid Mustangs.
Found a melting fan connector but the circuit breaker didn’t trip. Ordered a replacement fan & harness connector but the long term plan is a brushless, Delta PAG setup like @lwarrior1016 has.
Stupid Mustangs.
Musturd
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It’s always something with them . How much air does that other fan you’re talking about move .
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OP
They claim 3200 CFM.
Musturd
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Sweet Jesus . I know what to look into if mine doesn’t keep up .
OP
OP
Didn’t take a lot of pictures but I replaced the fan & connector.
I also changed the plugs from stock Ford plugs to NGK Iriduim iX and dropped down a heat range. Changed some setting for the fan controller and turned the knock sensors back on.
We have been troubleshooting an erratic TPS signal and this temporary return spring was an attempt to smooth it out.
Checked the oil and it looked good too.
I also changed the plugs from stock Ford plugs to NGK Iriduim iX and dropped down a heat range. Changed some setting for the fan controller and turned the knock sensors back on.
We have been troubleshooting an erratic TPS signal and this temporary return spring was an attempt to smooth it out.
Checked the oil and it looked good too.
OP
OP
I’ve been struggling with TPS issues for a while. The signal has been erratic and causing the car to jump in/out of closed loop. Can’t finish tuning until I’ve sorted this out. So… Here we go…
Steps taken and results:
New TPS sensor - Replaced the O'Reilly brand TPS sensor with an ACDelco part. Had no effect.
New throttle cable - Swapped the Lokar cable, which was only supposed to be temporary to begin with, for a Motion Raceworks cable. Smoother throttle response, but no effect on single issue.
Knock sensor deactivation - The wiring from my TPS & IAC runs in the intake valley in close proximity to the sensors. Had no effect with them disabled and we've since reactivated them.
Secondary throttle return spring - My car has a very stiff suspension and it was suggested to try this to steady the throttle blade. Had no effect.
RFI noise filter - Checked and found that only one has been installed. Results pending.
Harness ground - I had grounded the Holley harness to an intake bolt because I felt it would have continuity through the cylinder head. Decided to move it to a spot where I sanded the paint down to bare metal. This had no effect.
So, that brings us to last night. Decided to datalog the TPS with the engine off, where there should be no noise from any electronics, at varying inputs and came away with this:
The signal would spike and the fall off! This is a brand damn new AC Delco sensor. Took a deep dive into enemy territory and, according to the GM crowd, AC Delco sucks. After reading awhile I decided to try a Delphi sensor and it’ll be here tomorrow.
Steps taken and results:
New TPS sensor - Replaced the O'Reilly brand TPS sensor with an ACDelco part. Had no effect.
New throttle cable - Swapped the Lokar cable, which was only supposed to be temporary to begin with, for a Motion Raceworks cable. Smoother throttle response, but no effect on single issue.
Knock sensor deactivation - The wiring from my TPS & IAC runs in the intake valley in close proximity to the sensors. Had no effect with them disabled and we've since reactivated them.
Secondary throttle return spring - My car has a very stiff suspension and it was suggested to try this to steady the throttle blade. Had no effect.
RFI noise filter - Checked and found that only one has been installed. Results pending.
Harness ground - I had grounded the Holley harness to an intake bolt because I felt it would have continuity through the cylinder head. Decided to move it to a spot where I sanded the paint down to bare metal. This had no effect.
So, that brings us to last night. Decided to datalog the TPS with the engine off, where there should be no noise from any electronics, at varying inputs and came away with this:
The signal would spike and the fall off! This is a brand damn new AC Delco sensor. Took a deep dive into enemy territory and, according to the GM crowd, AC Delco sucks. After reading awhile I decided to try a Delphi sensor and it’ll be here tomorrow.
OP
OP
Aside from the TPS issue, this is my springtime punch list:
1. Install new front brake pads and rotors
2. Revise high pressure PS line from the hydroboost to the rack
3. Modify new Saleen bumper for quick release and tire clearance then send it off for paint. I’ll be installing a new headlight panel at the same time.
4. Detail engine bay
5. Install oil filter relocation setup
6. Build 3” tail pipes
There are so many other little jobs to tackle but I’m going to focus on this list for a bit.
1. Install new front brake pads and rotors
2. Revise high pressure PS line from the hydroboost to the rack
3. Modify new Saleen bumper for quick release and tire clearance then send it off for paint. I’ll be installing a new headlight panel at the same time.
4. Detail engine bay
5. Install oil filter relocation setup
6. Build 3” tail pipes
There are so many other little jobs to tackle but I’m going to focus on this list for a bit.
ttocs
Post Whore
I had issues with my tps but it was a little different as mine was drifting when it was hot and was because of the harness in the end. Just out of curiosity maybe take a voltage reading when it is cold, then do it again when it is hot.
Seeing noise with the motor off is really strange. The look of the graph almost reminds me of something I barely remember from tech school where they talked about switch debouncing where when you flip a switch the first few microseconds it has a spike followed by a fall and with some sensitive digital electronics it can read those first few spikes as on/off/on but the tps is a potentiometer and it doesn't make any sense to me that it would have this.
Seeing noise with the motor off is really strange. The look of the graph almost reminds me of something I barely remember from tech school where they talked about switch debouncing where when you flip a switch the first few microseconds it has a spike followed by a fall and with some sensitive digital electronics it can read those first few spikes as on/off/on but the tps is a potentiometer and it doesn't make any sense to me that it would have this.
OP
OP
The Delphi sensor offered a much cleaner out of the box and I will report back after a drive.
OP
OP
@weendoggy - Looking like I’m going down the “cure fuel starvation” rabbit hole with you. Apparently, I wasn’t driving my car hard enough or with low enough fuel, to notice this before.
What do you think?
What do you think?
ttocs
Post Whore
drive slower
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