Who has taken out their smog/emissions and/or AC?

Hey Matt..my emissions stuff is removed. The biggest thing is the egr?? You have to weld the opening on the header shut. You will also need a chip burned to shut off the check engine light. I still have my air..sorry.

 

that sure is Prr T

 

so you can use fox headers on the 94-95?

 

Nice, cheaper too i would think.

 

are they long tubes or the shorty style?

 

about the recgarging the a/c questions...i know for a fact that the old r12 never went bad...if it needed recharging it meant you had a leak..im about 98% that goes for r134a....the gasses dont wear out..they may leak out but thats it..you can fill it with some UV gas,,rent one of the lights from the auto parts store..tuen on the a/c on max have in a dark place if possible . Turn on the light and look for the gas leak,,hope this helps

 

I would say keep thew AC, no sense in getting rid of "creature comforts." I also deleted my smog pump. The only thing you need ot do is buy the smog pump elimiator bracket/pulley <Click Me>. Then you have to block off the holes on the back of the heads. I think Ford Racing sells 2 blocks for this purpose. Or another option is to weld something in the end of the tube:

You'll see it on the back of both heads with a tube connecting them both. Also make sure to weld up the piece on the H-Pipe / X-Pipe which i think you said you had already done. I can't say i noticed a big differance with the deletion, thats because when i had the whole exhaust put on i had all that removed as well. But it should release some parasitic loss HP (can't think of another way to put it).

 

Yeah it does eliminate alot of the "eye sores" in the engine bay. No problem man, here to help best i can! :thumb:

 

you do NOT need to spend money on the bracket/pulley to eliminate the smog pump. Just short belt it. I don't the length of the belt off the top of my head as it is different depending on what kind of (if any) underdrive pullies you have. I just ran some string through all the pullies finding in the proper route (just skip whatever you're not using...I'm only running an alternator and water pump). Whatever length you come up with (with the tensioner all the way bottomed out btw) go to the parts store and ask to look at their belts (6 rib). I bought the 3 that were closest and smaller. Took then home till one fit the best and took the others back. Its a TIGHT fit but I haven't has one problem yet. Eliminating the smog pump will NOT effect the EGR. If you do ditch the EGR, you don't have to run a fox header or have it welded shut. Just take the line that hooks up to the bung and cut it....save the "B-nut." Put a penny....yes a penny inside the b-nut and put it back on the header....perfect seal and it will cost you a penny. IF you do block off the EGR, you can either have a chip burnt to disable it or you can take the solenoid off the valve and find out a way to secure the plunger half way down. This "should" trick the ECU. Just make sure you block off the hole on the back of the intake with either a metal plate or put the valve assembly BACK on with TWO gaskets and a nickel in between. Yeah, I know this all sounds ghetto but it works. I made a plate for my egr now. I still have a penny in the bung on the header. The EGR is shut off with my chip now but this all worked for me before I had the chip and plate made. You can do all this stuff for dirt cheap if you get the right stuff.

 

So if you turn egr off with a chip and pull off most of the stuff, can you still pass emmissions with it like that, provided they don't pop the hood?

 

I'm not promising that you'll pass the sniffer test but if you still run cats, you should have no problem with a sniff test. I have no EGR, Smog Pump, or Cats...only thing left on the car is the charcoal canister. I pass the so called "visual" emissions test where I'm at but I don't have to get sniffed.

 

Anyone try one of these little thingys?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-9...ewItemQQcategoryZ33553QQitemZ8065677142QQrdZ1

Sounds like an easy way.

 

for $30 total? no thanks...you can go to radio shack and buy resistors and make your own for like...5 bucks. I've done the plunger of the EGR solenoid pushed half way down and tucked away...then I used the resistors from radio and siliconed them into the connector...then I just had a chip burnt for the new motor. If you're feeling lazy and have the money to do that, go for it but I would go the cheap route. If anyone wants, I have the diagram for the resistors on my computer.