Why does my car stall?

Discussion in 'General Tech' started by MyLittlePony, Sep 8, 2016.

  1. MyLittlePony

    MyLittlePony Active Member

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    So, if I drive my car for more than an hour, then park it, it refuses to start. Starter turns, but I don't think it's getting fuel or something. If you let the car cool down though, sit for half an hour or so, it will start right back up as if nothing bad has ever happened to it. This problem started back in 09 I believe and had not been resolved because I rarely drive it far or long enough for it to be an issue.

    One time though I had been driving it for much longer than an hour, like possibly two, and while in the fast lane, during rush hour, on a major highway, the car starts to slow down on its own. I try to accelerate, but the RPMs don't increase, and it continues to drive slower, eventually misfires, and then stalls. Thankfully there was major construction going on, so I was able to merge onto the left shoulder, with an entire closed HOV lane and cones as a buffer.

    The other time it died on me was during a very stressful move. I had been driving it a few times that day, and eventually left it running as my daughter fell asleep, needed the AC, and it was just safer for her to stay there. I don't know how long I left it running. I wouldn't say more than an hour, but possibly. As I turned into our new neighborhood it started to misfire, and stalled. I coasted to the new house.


    Anyway, I have no idea what's wrong with this car. It originally was a v6, but had a v8 swap done in 08. Since it doesn't really do long distance travel since then, it's a rarity. I do know that it successfully drove two hours and back (after parked) in 2009. The only thing original I think is the fuel filter and fuel pump, which have 186k miles on it. Could that be it, or do you think it might be electrical? I'm currently getting 12mpg also. Not sure if that's related. For comparison, I used to get 15 city even after the swap. I have brand new spark plugs, wires, air filter, and MAF sensor.
     
  2. g36 monkey

    g36 monkey Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    What kind of V8 is it? Give us some more details and we can start to help you. Mods?
     
  3. MyLittlePony

    MyLittlePony Active Member

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    1986 5.0 GT engine block
    2001 Explorer GT40P heads
    1993 Cobra R Upper and Lower intake with one inch spacer
    CAI
    Underdrive pulleys
    SCT chip

    ford racing rockers were added last year I think.

    the smog pump isn't attached to anything. Just spins.
     
  4. Nighttrain

    Nighttrain Well-Known Member

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    Check your fuel pressure
     
  5. Scud2

    Scud2 New Member

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    Change the fuel filter asap. I do it every year. The first time I did it was the second year I had the car. I could not blow through it. Like a new car when I changed it. Also maybe get the battery/alternator checked...but is the fuel pump from the v6 still or was that changed to a new one? Not sure if the stock v6 is same as GT but look into that. Could start there. Let me know any updates. Chasing these problems can be a pain

    2001 Mustang GT
    Vortech V3 Supercharged
    402 HP 389 Torque
     
  6. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    If that's a bama tune, get rid of that and get someone local to dyno tune it using your sct chip.. bama is horrific.
     
  7. Scud2

    Scud2 New Member

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    Second that! Nothing better than a tune from a dyno shop whe re they take the reading and make it perfect for that car!

    2001 Mustang GT
    Vortech V3 Supercharged
    402 HP 389 Torque
     
  8. 95opal

    95opal Well-Known Member

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    TFI or dizzy.
     
  9. MyLittlePony

    MyLittlePony Active Member

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    Fuel pump and filter are both original from 1994, whatever it came with as a V6. I've gone through 4 different batteries since the swap, and 3 alternators (first for each was the original.) My last battery and alternator was due to a power issue I had, as the battery would not keep a charge down the road. Turns out it was a loose wire connecting the two.

    Ive had the car since 1998, so I know I've never changed it. I doubt the old lady we bought it from did either.

    EDIT - My husband informed me that he installed a new fuel filter two years ago, as I was hoping back then that was the problem. Will hafta pick up a fuel pressure gauge to see if that's it. But now I'm chasing down an overheating problem, so it's low priority again. Oh, and also the two rear quarter windows are having trouble going up and down, even though both motors are from this decade. There's just so much wrong with this car, I just don't understand it. It's been babied it's whole life!!!

    It was tuned and installed by HPP performance locally. Probably needs to be retuned, but I won't be taking it to them. 3 month waiting period because they specialize in Mustangs. ...didn't even know how to open my hood. But there are other reasons I don't like them, but it's too long of a story and off topic.
     
  10. Nighttrain

    Nighttrain Well-Known Member

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    Theres a few things id do off the bat and should be part of regular maintanence. First is fuel filter, i know he said he did it but that was two years ago. With fuel being what it is today that doesnt help any. Ethenal natural collects moisture so get that out of the way and then move on to tune up. Plugs, wires, pcv, air filter, distributer pip. After that check your fuel pressure and report back. When a fuel pump starts to go it creates alot of heat which makes air bubbles. Fpr's dont last forever either.

    I wouldnt worry about your tune, if you had it dyno tuned and didnt make any big changes you should be good to go.
     
  11. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    Normal fuel line maintenance fo sho!!! 186k miles unchanged....gosh.

    Then swap out the distributor along with thTFI module.

    Be good to go!!!
     
  12. Nighttrain

    Nighttrain Well-Known Member

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    186k on the stock fuel filter? No way
     
  13. Shifty Powers

    Shifty Powers Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, but for some things this may be true, to a degree. But for a fox ecu, a dyno tune with a base moded 5.0 is a waste of money. Those cars, our cars, new cars, can easily be tuned via the interwebz with just as little to no problems as dyno tuning. Only reason you hear about it is due to the volume of internet tuning can be 100x that of a dyno shop.
    And a dyno shop can sometimes fix a car on the spot(at the owners expense) if they notice something wrong, often times the car will sit if they cant figure it out and have other appointments. Online tuning obviously may take an extra day or 2 to get datalog files and such since car is not in person.
    Also if a person forgets a mod or something is installed wrong, the internet tuners cant catch that.
    Bama is really not all that bad. Specially with the dummy computers sn95s have in them.

    anyway. enough of my rant. Back on topic.

    Have you figured anything out yet OP? Start off with some small things then move up to possible bigger issues
     
  14. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

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    Dude BAMA tunes are atrocious haha. I wouldn't let them tune my schwinn. I know probably 8 people with bama tunes and nothing but issues.
     
  15. 07GtS197

    07GtS197 Well-Known Member

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    Ive had 2 cars tuned from bama and multiple different tunes with no problem.

    Now to get on topic, like others have said it could be the distributor, pip, coil or tfi. The tfi module is a known and common failure point on these cars because of its sensativity to heat and its placement in the engine compartment. Ignition components can work fine when theyre cold but once they heat up they build more resistance. This is why these components will fail after the car is warmed up.
     
  16. Witzy0070

    Witzy0070 Active Member

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    Had a similar issue on my bronco 5.0. Was the ICM.
     
  17. MyLittlePony

    MyLittlePony Active Member

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    All of those have been replaced. ...more than once since the issue. Went to pick up a new thermostat today, but forgot to pick up a fuel pressure gauge.

    Post was edited before these replies, the fuel filter was changed about 2 years ago, but problem remains. It's also had SeaFoam run in it a few times in its life, once or twice after the issue started

    Havent had time to address that issue as the car has started to over heat. Factory gauge starts to heat up before my aftermarket gauge will, which makes me think that the thermostat is stuck even though they're all supposed to be FAIL SAFE!!! Grr. I swear I go through these things every 3 years!

    so that's priority #1, second priority is my rear windows because driving with the top down and windows up is not only a SIN, but against the law! I don't want my car to be repossessed because I am operating it improperly. #3 is my passenger front speaker, as it keeps cutting out or producing popping/static. But I've checked the speaker, I've checked connections to the speaker, connections to the amp, and connections to the head unit. I can't find anything wrong. Priority #4, my battery light randomly comes on. Nothing else fails when it's on. Battery is new, alternator is new, wiring is new. If something else is grounding, I have no clue where it's hiding.

    So priority #5, the stalling. Only has happened 5 times since the 8 years I've noticed this problem. Car rarely ever gets driven that far/long for it to ever matter, and 2 of those 5 times were when I was actually driving, not parked, so it's just so too rare to become higher priority. But it would be nice if I could depend on it like I used to. As a v6, I've driven from TX to and from FL, and also from TX to and from CA. But now I don't even trust it to make it out of the state.

    distributor, coil, and CCRM are new, and issue occurred before and after replacement. Will look at TFI, and ICM. After the tune in 2009, the car would randomly stall, rather frequently, and I took it back to the tuner. They installed a USED ICM from who knows where, but it fixed the problem, at least for long distance travel. I want to say I've replaced it since then, but not 100% sure without looking.

    originally, when this happened, it was mostly leaving me stranded at whatever destination I arrived to, and didn't seem to care until I turned off the car, and then tried to start it back up again after 10-30 minutes. I would then smell something electrical, which is why I was thinking more that it was electrical/computer related, and not fuel related, although it feels like something's telling it to cut off the fuel. If you wait 20 minutes, it will attempt to start but die after a few seconds. Not even long enough to put it in gear. The chip I have had a switch on it, so you can use multiple tunes, wasn't sure if that was effecting it.
     
  18. 07GtS197

    07GtS197 Well-Known Member

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    If it starts then immediately dies then that indicates a bad fuel pump. It could be a combination of fuel pump and something else like the icm. Have you checked the codes yet?
     
  19. MyLittlePony

    MyLittlePony Active Member

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    I didn't save them. It only throws the codes during the problem, and I was too busy in August, like, OMG busy! And when it did it some time during the summer of 2015, I recorded the codes, and attempted to translate them, but they made no sense. But if it ever happens again, I can always necropost this thread.

    Probably makes more sense now to just buy a new ICM and just see how the car treats me after a lengthy drive. Worse case scenario, I will at least have access to the codes again. I would go and get the one I have tested, but clearly it's working. It just has issues if you use it too long.
     
  20. 07GtS197

    07GtS197 Well-Known Member

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    They should be saved in the ecu's continuous memory. You can retrieve them with a koeo test. And thats a common problem with failing electrical components. They will work fine until they reach a certain temperature. The hotter it is the more resistance it has. Thats why letting it cool will "fix" the problem.