Why NOT to upgrade from your stock MAF

Discussion in 'Tech Articles, How-To's & Write Ups' started by [email protected], Jun 4, 2007.

  1. Many people think they need to upgrade their MAF. The truth is you dont need a new MAF until the stock one is pegged. Its not so much as to what amount of hp will peg one, but the amount of air going through it. But as a rule of thumb, we will go with 400rwhp. Now Im not saying go out and buy a new one if you're at 400rwhp, you need to datalog the MAF counts and such to see if you need a new one. VERY rarely will someone with a NA car peg the stock MAF.

    What does upgrading to a larger MAF do?
    Basically it will lean you out and cause the car to run very poorly. As a result you will need to get the car retuned. If you dont, then the lean condition your new MAF causes will lead to a blown motor. Now after you get the new MAF and have the car retuned the gains are very minimal. So that makes your new MAF pointless.

    Also, just as a side note, intakes with a bend before the MAF cause bad readings. So stay away from those too.

    It gets into more detail here. And for those who dont know who Ed Clark is, he is a VERY reputable tuner at Steen Racing. http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?t=25092
     
  2. scarface

    scarface Guest

    yep...Ed told me that same thing when he was tuning my car.


    FYI, Ed ISNT with Steen anymore. He is Freelance.
     
  3. Suspect

    Suspect Well-Known Member

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    say if ur swapping heads.. u also have to upgrade injectors right? so ur stuck until u get the car tuned w/ the stock maf? i already bought a maf for my injectors, but im just wondering.
     
  4. 1FastGT

    1FastGT Active Member

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    so is the BBK CAI for 94-95 GT's no good? cuase it has a bend before the maf into the fender well..... :dunno:
     
  5. RJayLo

    RJayLo Member

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    Awesome. :thumb:

    Old topic, I know but I was looking at replacing my MAF (I think its going gonzo on me) and was wondering if upgrading is a good idea. Sounds like it isnt and I just need to buy a new stock one.

    Search button FTW. :TY:
     
  6. 95-stang

    95-stang Well-Known Member

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    Well thats one of the most interesting things i've read in a long time, makes you wonder about a lot of the stuff we just bolt on because people say you need to.
     
  7. yeah... Throttle bodies are a waste too. TBs are just like carbs. You want them to be sized up to work well with the rest of the motor.

    A huge TB isn't much different from running running multiple carbs etc.

    I would never mess with the TB or MAF. Its just a waste. All you get is a bigger diameter intake pipe. Save your money for heads. Heads are what choke our motors.
     
  8. MustangChris

    MustangChris Legend Retired Staff SN95 Supporter

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  9. 95-stang

    95-stang Well-Known Member

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    This bit about the maf only really applies to modular motors btw, due to the fact they start off with a bigger maf than 94-95 to begin with.
     
  10. timpryor

    timpryor New Member

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    I'll agree with you on the MAF & even the TB on mild N/A Cars, but beyond that things change.

    good info
     
  11. skunkworx

    skunkworx New Member

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    Ok I know this is a old old thread but anyway.So this only applies to 96 and newer? Here is my plan I have a 94 95 Cobra intake polished and wonting to get 24# or 30# injectors and AFR heads and of course a cam. What size or type of TB,MAF do I need (stock or Little bigger after market)? Thinks for any help.
     
  12. CanaryGT

    CanaryGT Well-Known Member

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    Yeah It mainly applies to 4.6's
     
  13. skunkworx

    skunkworx New Member

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    Ok cool thinks!
     
  14. 97GT4.6

    97GT4.6 Active Member

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    Very Good information. thanks for letting us know.
     
  15. Jrgunn5150

    Jrgunn5150 Legend

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    I don't agree with any of this. I run the biggest MAF I can, always. I pegged a Lightning at 10 PSI with 480 rwhp, and pegged a stock Fox at under 300 rwhp.

    With bolt on's, no, you don't need to change your MAF. ANd you won't pick up 100 rwhp on your stock car by changing it when you do your super fly CAI, BUT start to get some sense, and make some changes that matter like H/C/I or boost, and don't screw around with extender's or any of that other crap. Run the biggest MAF you can fit in your intake tract.
     
  16. CanaryGT

    CanaryGT Well-Known Member

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    Last last part about running the biggest MAF you can fit should depend on your application....
     
  17. Jrgunn5150

    Jrgunn5150 Legend

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    I like to buy thing's once. You can't oversize a MAF, you'll never lose power by going too big.

    People thinking they are going to simply swap a MAF meter by itself, and gain power, are fools. But anyone looking to move some serious air in and out of the engine, should run the biggest one they can, period.
     
  18. Venom351R

    Venom351R Legend

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    I run a 97MM :eek:ccasion14:
     
  19. CanaryGT

    CanaryGT Well-Known Member

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    So what your saying if im not mistaken is that you should buy the largest MAF that you can? And buy buying a 100MM Maf and sticking with stock everything else would have no ill effects? This just sounds wrong to me.
     
  20. Jrgunn5150

    Jrgunn5150 Legend

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    That's right. The largest MAF that will fit in your intake tract.

    I am NOT saying go buy a larger MAF and you'll make power. And I am not saying if you have u/d pulley's, a spiffy chrome CAI, and a 65mm TB to run out and buy a MAF meter.

    If you are serious about moving some air, i.e. aftermarket head's, stroker's, full exhaust (shorties do not qualify), or some kind of forced induction, don't screw around, buy the biggest MAF you can fit.

    Ask Venom 351wR if he's having any ill effect's from his huge MAF. His combo is very mild. I run a 78mm in my fox, just H/C/I nothing fancy, 312 rwhp. I actually gained power from it, since my stoker was pegged before.

    You could use a 12" piece of sewer pipe as an air intake and not slow down or make less power.