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Discussion in 'Electrical & Stereo' started by ndfrspd, Feb 18, 2014.
I have no idea where you got that info from myself
Haha ok nvm well i can see the mach harness running through there looks connected.
I want to revisit this. Get a better pic and see where the wires are going. Also see if a friend has a multimeter you can borrow or if you can afford $20 pick one up.
Those cut wires splice into that connector. Its 4 wires that the guy had there. Ill get another one tomorrow and find a multimeter
hey so i have a video in this folder of whats going on, but i also had my door apart today to switch locks... so i double checked the door speakers and theyre wired up but i noticed a little corrosion on the bottom of the speaker.
other connectors plugged together:
Oh yeah, will this multimeter work for what we need?
What am i doing with it now?
Ill try this today and post back numbers...
that meter should be fine for that we need. To measure ohms/resistance/impedance you will set the selector knob to the ohmega symbol(the horseshoe). now you have the leads for the meter in the correct spot already in that pic but take note that there is a common(black) meter lead and then two red leads. the one you are not using in the pic is for measuring current only and the only time you would use that is for tracking down an electrical piece that is not turning off. Like I said the leads are in the correct place I just wanted to tell you this in case someday you notice the wife/kid/someone swapped them. So turn the meter on, and then touch the leads together and the meter should show 0, or a low ohm value just to confirm that the leads are good and the meter is working. If you have the speakers pulled out like in the pic, just disconnect the speaker wire going to the speaker and then stab it with your meter leads to see what it reads. it doesn't matter red/black if you do them backwards it will still show up just as it would if you got them correct. The stock woofers are listed as an 8 ohm driver but the nominal(average) impedance(just alternating current resistance) will not show up as an exact 8 ohm but probably closer to 5-6 ohms on the meter. If you put your doors back together then do like I said and disconnect the 8 pin hrns that was next to the radio and then stab the male end of the hrns with your leads. Just start on one end and stick the first 2 holes/contacts in hrns and see what the meter shows. Then take the leads out and stab the next two contacts in the hrns and see what it says. Repeat this 2 more times till you have tested all 8 contacts in the hrns, 2 at a time.
alright yo, heres how i did it, then moved to the next set of 2... for a total of 4 results. oh yeah and the leads on the meter are good, tested em.
starting at where you see in this picture:
I had these ohm readings:
1 and 2 - 4.0 ohms
3 and 4 - 3.8 o
5 and 6 - 3.8 o
7 and 8 - 4.2 o
ill be on here for a while tonight.
ok so the speakers test good so now we need to figure out if its the out put of the deck, the cables or the amp. by chance do you have one of those headphone to rca cables? We need to use a different audio source at the input too see if the decks output is bad. The easiest way is to take an ipod/mp3 player with a headphone to RCA cable and plug it in behind the deck as the new audio source. with neither the front nor the rear speakers playing it would be more understandable that the decks output, or a cable going to the amps is bad causing both to not play.
Also now do we have the amp turn on(factory hrns) connected to the ignition wire or to the decks amp/remote turn on? I was not sure how we left it after testing it to ensure it had power on it.
So i need a female rca to headphone? The rca ends plug into the metra 5510 harness and 3.5mm to ipod?
Still have amp turn on and pow ant. Jumped to red ignition on wire.
female rca ends are hard to find so you will probably end up getting a standard male cable and two barrel connectors to change the rca from male to female.
I had another thought just now that we should check before the cable is dug out. Check to see how your audio settings are set up for the dual zone and system eq's. If you had the decks rca outputs either possibly turned off or you could have it set up for high pass out. If that is the case then you would be sending high pass(treble for tweeters) signal to the amps, that the cross over inside of them would then block out which would mean your signal is almost 0.
Check out page 12 and see what your setings are set to.
okay, im on page 11 i see what you mean. i dont think my headunit is setup properly at all.
Adjustment Item Display Range
Front High Pass Filter*
Rear High Pass Filter*
Low Pass Filter*
"PHAS" Reverse (180Â°)/ Normal (0Â°)
Volume offset "V-OFF" –8 — Â±0
Loudness "LOUD" OFF/ON
Dual Zone System "2ZON" OFF/ON
what do i select for each option?
It wont even show the dual zone option... all my passes are set to thru
I think we have found it. Like I said above it looks like you have the rca's set up to send a high pass signal to the amps. High-pass means that the filter/cross over allows only the higher freqs(for tweeters) pass though it. When that goes to the amps the amps are set up to send a low-pass signal to the subs so when it goes through its filter you have now taken all the high, and the low freqs out of the signal by the filters. On top of that the subwoofer listed as V-off I think means you have the output turned off.
Unfortunatly in the 15 years I installed I never sold kenwood and I know their menus/eq settings take some getting use to honestly. What I can tell you is that messing with the cross over settings should not hurt anything in the deck or after it.
Try setting the outputs to a low-pass filter(LPF) and also see if messing with the subs settings change anything. you only have 2 rca cables to hook up to the deck so make sure if you adjust the subwoofer that you have the rca's plugged into the sub rca but play with those and see if you get some noise out of it. Bet you do..
I tried changing those settings but i really have no idea what i am doing.... and i still cant hear bass or door speakers. V-off is volume offset, thats unrelated...
I just tried each different frequency, it literally all sounded the same..... should i try and sell this thing and get a different brand that will work?
disconnect the speaker hrns that powers the tweeters and see if you are getting ANY sound of of it. if you can just try and turn off all the cross over functions so it plays full range.
Wait... so i need to set up a dual zone or no? I cant figure out how to make it play full range.
unfortunately I am not familiar with kenwood to know what you do or do not need to do with the dual zone. IT could be the problem stopping you but I am not sure never messed with it.
I think its time to get the headphone to RCA cable and try a different audio source to see now if its the amp or deck.
so what do i need for that? specifically? and im using only the 2 rear rcas to test this?
go to wally world or the hach shack and get a headphone to rca cable. Don't get the expensive one get the cheapest you can find and then you will need 2 rca barrel connectors to connect the male ends on each cable.