Worth it? idk.. need answers to see if im just going too far lol

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1bad9d5

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You'll need the tb adapter since the trickflow intakes and many other intakes are made without an elbow like stock 94-95 5.0 intakes have. So since there's no elbow you could switch to a foxbody throttlebody setup, or just buy the adapter (elbow) and use that

oh ok well I currently have the foxbody setup of no elbow so that's perfect I can throw my 70mm 94-95 tb on it with out the elbow and be good..
 
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haha sweet... yea the turbo piping wouldn't fit on my car with the elbow so we threw an intake from an 89 fox we have with tb and etc so I been meaning to switch back without the elbow so I can get my cruise control back
 

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Buy used heads and intake put rest of money towards a new block.
 

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Your car wad dyno'd at 460rwhp with E7 heads and a stock intake? Unless the heads/intake have serious work I call BS. :) I've never seen a stock top end 5.0 with boost make over 400rwhp no matter how much psi you throw at it.

But if you are making that power, I would say it will make more than what you think with the new parts. Even with 460rw you are roughly at 560 at the crank.
 
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ive seen it done 3 separate times now, twice before I did it to my own car. so don't know what to tell ya.. guess well see what I do, depending on my money situation in 2 months.. thanks everybody
 

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I've got a turbo car I worked for many years. My advice would be to spend the money strengthening the bottom end/getting a boss block with 4 bolt mains, etc. You are making a lot of HP currently. With that top end kit, you will make a *lot* more. Something will break. Honestly, I'd get a bottom end, and just crank the boost (I think you have an intercooler, yes?). If cranking the boost doesn't do it for you, then consider getting new heads. The car I worked on (an 87) was very similar to the Mustangs in that the heads (head in this case as it is an I4) was an utter POS. It flowed dick. And for that car, it didn't have the aftermarket support the Mustang does, so a new head wasn't really an option. All the guys in my community got around this by getting the head ported and then turning up the boost. Some guys were running around 30+ psi. And they did this on a built bottom end. Those that turned it up that high without the bottom end to support it, loved the shit out of it...for a very short period of time.
 
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I've got a turbo car I worked for many years. My advice would be to spend the money strengthening the bottom end/getting a boss block with 4 bolt mains, etc. You are making a lot of HP currently. With that top end kit, you will make a *lot* more. Something will break. Honestly, I'd get a bottom end, and just crank the boost (I think you have an intercooler, yes?). If cranking the boost doesn't do it for you, then consider getting new heads. The car I worked on (an 87) was very similar to the Mustangs in that the heads (head in this case as it is an I4) was an utter POS. It flowed dick. And for that car, it didn't have the aftermarket support the Mustang does, so a new head wasn't really an option. All the guys in my community got around this by getting the head ported and then turning up the boost. Some guys were running around 30+ psi. And they did this on a built bottom end. Those that turned it up that high without the bottom end to support it, loved the shit out of it...for a very short period of time.

would this turbo fit getting a boss block?? yes I definitely have an intercooler.. 4" and im looking to also upgrade my radiator at some point too.. yea I mean my goal is to eventually have a safe 600rwhp car that can always go more if needed but I doubt I really need more than that without something dumb on the street happening lol... how much is a boss block as well? if u happen to know off the top of your head.. im just researching for now, not committing to anything at all
 

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Boss block will run you $1600 plus machine work and labor. I don't recall what rotating assembly fits it though. But you won't be reusing the stock shit if you go with that block either.

So plan for a whole shortblock. $2400-$3400 minimum. Then heads, a good intake... Etc etc

Then a new trans

And a rear end.





**** that. Turbo stock 302. When it explodes, toss another $500 junkyard shortblock in and call it a day.
 
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Boss block will run you $1600 plus machine work and labor. I don't recall what rotating assembly fits it though. But you won't be reusing the stock shit if you go with that block either.

So plan for a whole shortblock. $2400-$3400 minimum. Then heads, a good intake... Etc etc

Then a new trans

And a rear end.





**** that. Turbo stock 302. When it explodes, toss another $500 junkyard shortblock in and call it a day.

yea this block lasts 2 years... its what I would do... get another 1, have them tune it the same way and let her rip... I just know I need a tranny soon.. but I don't know shit about trannys and don't know what kind would be good to keep the 5 speed and hold 500 to the wheels for when I come out 5k deep at the track... another good question ill need to ask cause I don't want the hassle of going to a t56 even though I would love to have 1
 

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would this turbo fit getting a boss block?? yes I definitely have an intercooler.. 4" and im looking to also upgrade my radiator at some point too.. yea I mean my goal is to eventually have a safe 600rwhp car that can always go more if needed but I doubt I really need more than that without something dumb on the street happening lol... how much is a boss block as well? if u happen to know off the top of your head.. im just researching for now, not committing to anything at all

I was seriously considering building a Type 65 Coupe using a twin turbo 302. And then reality hit me. That's another story. But I was looking at the Boss 302 as my block of choice, specifically for the 4 bolt mains and because it could handle the HP I was planning on running. Yes, it costs like $1700. And yes, some things from the stock 302 don't swap over (but a lot does). But I don't know about you guys, I guess I'm just lazy. The thought of building something, then waiting for it to explode, then building it again just seems dumb to me. Now, I'm not saying throw ass tons of money at something. That's not right. But I also don't think using a stock block and then waiting for it to blow up is right either. I mean, it's going to happen when you least want it to. And you are going to have to deal with fixing it, and who knows what else you will have going on. Who knows what money will be like, or whatever. My personal opinion on it is build something reasonable that will last. Maybe a Boss 302 isn't the answer. Fine, get a Dart block or equivalent for cheap, something you know that will take the HP. "Run it until it breaks and then build it again" is something very easy to say in the short term, and usually a HUGE pain in the ass in the long term. I'd rather build something reasonable from the get-go that will last the long term, or at least pretty close to it. But I guess that's just me. Because I know for a fact that I don't want to screw with something later on after I think I am "done" with it.
 
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I was seriously considering building a Type 65 Coupe using a twin turbo 302. And then reality hit me. That's another story. But I was looking at the Boss 302 as my block of choice, specifically for the 4 bolt mains and because it could handle the HP I was planning on running. Yes, it costs like $1700. And yes, some things from the stock 302 don't swap over (but a lot does). But I don't know about you guys, I guess I'm just lazy. The thought of building something, then waiting for it to explode, then building it again just seems dumb to me. Now, I'm not saying throw ass tons of money at something. That's not right. But I also don't think using a stock block and then waiting for it to blow up is right either. I mean, it's going to happen when you least want it to. And you are going to have to deal with fixing it, and who knows what else you will have going on. Who knows what money will be like, or whatever. My personal opinion on it is build something reasonable that will last. Maybe a Boss 302 isn't the answer. Fine, get a Dart block or equivalent for cheap, something you know that will take the HP. "Run it until it breaks and then build it again" is something very easy to say in the short term, and usually a HUGE pain in the ass in the long term. I'd rather build something reasonable from the get-go that will last the long term, or at least pretty close to it. But I guess that's just me. Because I know for a fact that I don't want to screw with something later on after I think I am "done" with it.

you have a very logical point believe me that definitely is the smarter move... save up... when this blows... get a stronger block... build it once for any power I want and than I should be set as long as im not stupid with how I drive and the tuning is correct.... but I don't really know shit about blocks and wouldn't know the little things I need to get and stuff... I mean it would be a long ass process... but I guess ill have to address that whenever the time comes... eventually it will and I know it
 

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you have a very logical point believe me that definitely is the smarter move... save up... when this blows... get a stronger block... build it once for any power I want and than I should be set as long as im not stupid with how I drive and the tuning is correct.... but I don't really know shit about blocks and wouldn't know the little things I need to get and stuff... I mean it would be a long ass process... but I guess ill have to address that whenever the time comes... eventually it will and I know it

Nah, I don't mean build it for any power you might generate later. That's really not realistic without dumping tons of money. However, there's an in-between. Meaning, build for something reasonable. Like 600. That's a lot of power. If you end up with 700, meh, no sweat. And it won't cost an arm and a leg. Building all out is too expensive. Going super cheap is not the answer either (I try to stay away from extremes). Go for something like 600 hp and call it a day :)
 

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I re-read my posts and realized I might be coming across as bossy - not trying to. I was just trying to be helpful. When I was younger, and just started working on cars (I'm not saying that is your situation, this is my personal experience with it), I used to sweat everything. I would start working on something, and then the vision of all the other stuff I would have to (or should) do would start piling up, and I'd talk to my dad - I'd be like "Dad, I want more power." He's like "yup." "I need a new turbo," I says, "and I need to get bigger injectors to support it, and I'll have to tune the ECU, and I'll need a larger intercooler, and the wheels will slip from all this new power, so I'll need an LSD, and only a Quaife will do (expensive!), and well shit now my bottom end is going to grenade because it won't be able to take the added strain, etc." He says I'm crazy, tells me to turn up the manual boost controller, and be happy. Two examples there of very different extremes. What I ended up doing, over time, was getting the head ported, tuned the computer, got larger injectors, and cranked the boost up, then called it a day. I eventually learned that it was just too easy to over-plan, over-engineer things. I was afraid, back then, that if I didn't do the whole 9 yards, I wouldn't be getting everything I could out of the car. And you know what? It was true. To this day, that car has a lot more potential in it, *if I'm willing to throw the money at it.* But I'm not willing. I've got a house, a GF, 2 other cars that I really enjoy. And that car is pretty damn quick as it is.

My point, and suggestion, and essentially what I learned, is that all too often the full up route just isn't worth the money, the ROI just isn't there (unless you are going to race the car or have a dyno queen or something like that). For my situation at that time, I was wrong to be thinking about that full build path, it just didn't make sense for where I was. But I also realized that my dad was wrong too - his solution was too simple, too lazy. Now, he didn't want me to break the the car, so he wasn't intentionally giving me bad info. But I know how he is, and how I am. He would turn the boost up a little, and live it. That's his personality. Me, I'd turn it up a little, and then later turn it up a little more, and then later on a little more, until I crossed that line. And then boom. So I went for the middle ground. I did some reasonable work that would support me cranking a little more here and there, and you know what? It worked out pretty well. I didn't go into debt over the car, and I still really enjoyed driving it. And it didn't grenade on me. And I can tell you this, I do NOT want to be putting money into that car right now, not with my GF, house, STI and Mustang. That money has better uses IMO. Had I gone the easy route, I could easily be rebuilding a motor for that car right now.

So I recommend trying to find that balance, where ever it happens to for you. If it ends up being "run it until it breaks" then that's fine, that's what works for you. However I would urge you to think somewhat further down the road, just try not to fall into the trap of ending up with a full resto on your hands :)

Sorry for the wall of text, here's a picture!
tumblr_m55vzrqk0f1r2h6ioo1_500.gif
 

95opal

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Truth...how many bombs do you want to build before you get sick of yanking stock blocks...
 

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If you want to do it right. Start at the rear of the car. Work your way to the front. Power been the last thing you worry about.. But that is boring.
 

rz5.0

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I do it the wrong way.. replace it when it brakes. Im also a impulse buyer.. I see it I like it I get. Might not even need it at the time..
 

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If you want to do it right. Start at the rear of the car. Work your way to the front. Power been the last thing you worry about.. But that is boring.

This has essentially been my philosophy with my Mustang, but I think of it more ground-up. I did the suspension, brakes, gears, etc. I have yet to touch the engine, still stock. It's time will come, however the car is still a good deal of fun on a road course. And surprisingly quick for a solid axle car with 185 whp.
 

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