yET another window thread/rant/plea

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by ft_nox, Jun 18, 2015.

  1. ft_nox

    ft_nox New Member

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    Someone PLEASE tell me that there is a magic sticky on some mustang site somewhere on this WORLD WIDE WEB that has a permanent solution to the SN window glue issue! PLEASE for the love of all things mustang.. tell me.. that WE as a community of enthusiasts have a real solution to this age old problem! lol Can anyone point me in the direction of the ULTIMATE WINDOW FIX!
     
  2. Ferocious

    Ferocious Legend SN95 Supporter

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    Window glue issue?


    No clue what you're talking about man.
     
  3. Witzy0070

    Witzy0070 Active Member

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    Yeah?
     
  4. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    Its a real problem lol. I'm dealing with it now. First tried 15 min gorilla glue epoxy, didn't hold. Then tried a permatex 15 min epoxy. I think it would have worked if it was fresh, since it was older, and the glue was still soft over a day later (supposed to be rock hard in 4 hours). Now I have 3M Window Weld. Haven't had time to do it yet, but reading online it sounds promising.....
     
  5. Tony

    Tony Legend

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    wtf are you guys talking about?
     
  6. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    The side window has two clips glued to it. One front one back. Over time the glue lets go and they fall off. These clips or brackets are for your adjustment. There are bolts under the side panel that allows you to adjust up or down. When it falls off, the stop is gone and the window rolls up too far.
     
  7. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    You could break the glass if you still have good door pins lol
     
  8. SN90FiveOh

    SN90FiveOh Active Member

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    how do you adjust the window once you glue it back on? Mine are both way off but if i put the window back into the clips the glass sticks up over my top when i try to close the door.
     
  9. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    There's four bolts at the top inside of the panel. One pair in front one pair in back. The bolts that travel vertically adjust height when its closed. You're moving the stop that they hit. The two bolts that slide from inside of door towards outside, affect the pitch of the glass, basically shoves the top of the glass away from the car
     
  10. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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  11. Orange 94

    Orange 94 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Never heard or experienced this issue?
     
  12. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    I believe in 99+ they switched to a side window with holes in the glass, so the glue on bracket has something to clip onto.
     
  13. Tony

    Tony Legend

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    hmmmm....i'll be damn! so i'll have this problem asap just because i read about it....great :angry:
     
  14. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    I was sitting in a parking lot in Lincoln a month or so ago, just talking to a buddy i was dropping off. Engine was off windows open, and a noise in my door like something fell off. It was pretty weird. Then it rattled inside every time I closed it. FML.
     
  15. ft_nox

    ft_nox New Member

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    Glad i'm not the only one who is experiencing this.. This is my second new edge that this has occurred on. The first time, I used the 3M windo-weld and it worked for the short time I had the car but I got rid of it within a month or so of the fix. If I had it to do over again (and I do..F**K!!) I'd remove the window completely before re-gluing the clips.. My reasoning is this/PROPOSED fix..

    (I'm scatterbrained but I hope till will all make sense)

    - That windo-weld shit is some beasty stuff.. So you need SEVERAL things to go correctly for the fix to actually turn out well.
    - The reason the window needs to be removed is because to shoot the windo-weld with a caulk gun you need a DAMN good caulk gun and the strength of the incredible hulk.
    - The clips will need to be clear of ALL ALL ALL ALL ALL!!!!!! of the old silicone or else when you are done the window won't seal correctly.. don't ask me how I know.
    One problem I encountered is that when the clip is only the width of the thickness of the window and there are little crevices within it that are hard to remove the silicone from.
    if I must go this route, I will definitely be using a heat gun or some other form of heat/fire to try and release the silicone because SCRAPING IT WON'T cut it.
    - With the window out of the car, and with clean clips, it should be easy enough to apply the windo-weld and seat the clips properly. Plus IMO its 1000x harder to shoot the tar-like substance through a caulk gun into a narrow channel through the ford provided access holes in the door.
    - Another thing i'd like to mention is that IF YOU DECIDE TO TRY IT IN THE CAR... you MUST make sure that you set the window at the proper height for the time that the windo-weld is curing.. IF YOU ALLOW THE WINDOW TO ROLL UP TOO FAR, thus hyper-extending the rear clip, it will set just like that! Don't ask me how I know.. LMAO


    Anyone with experience on the matter please feel free to chime in.. My last experience is the reason i'm hesitant to do it myself right now. I honestly would like to see someone with a balls, bolts, and a big-ass drill just add a damn bolt through the clips and the glass and be done with it.. That's what I came here last night hoping to find.. lol

    *Side note- Called a glass repair shop here in Sebring,FL to ask for a quote.. They would re-glue for $65 without a warranty/guarantee and recommend replacing the window for 209/side. EFF THAT.. WE NEED A FIX!!!
     
  16. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    I use a dremel with a drill bit installed to clean out the clip. That seems to work pretty good, removes paint and all. Then use a straight blade/scrapper to clean the glass (reaching thru the speaker hole), wipe down with alcohol, brake clean, etc. then let it dry. Put glue in the clip, slide on glass and into the guide in front of it. Let it sit with the window open (or at least cracked open) for 24 hours minimum. Rolling it all the way up allows it to hit the stop and stress the premature glue. Adjust if necessary, but if you get the clip seated all the way, you shouldn't need adjustments.

    Thoughts???

    Good to know about the 3m stuff. I haven't tried it yet.....
     
  17. GregT94SCC

    GregT94SCC New Member

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    I've had this problem on and off since the 90s. The longest lasting fix to date was 3m "channel bonding compound". It's a 2 part epoxy of sorts. Usually good for a couple of years
     
  18. ft_nox

    ft_nox New Member

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    I'm going to follow suit as soon as I can get a clear day without a monsoon here in FL. I never thought to use the Dremel to clean the clips out so i'm excited to see how this works out. ANYTHING IS BETTER THAN BUYING NEW GLASS!