J_lope82
Active Member
Does the panhard bar add a lot of nvh?
Does the panhard bar add a lot of nvh?
Yeah I habe those MM XD lcas those double heim jointed bastards.. not as wild as you are welding in the panhard mount. Although now it doesn't sound like a bad ideaRight? Add spherical end control arms and the welded sway bar to the mix and it’s like a massage parlor lol
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Atleast you track your car. When I drive it now it's mostly cruising and hardly ever even doing pulls eith it, most of my love has been going to restoring the red convertible and cruising in that. Funny how life goes, all into the midnight highway racing, build the race car. Have a kid. Then are completely happy cruising in a 200 whp convertible.Probably going to bite me in the ass later but that’s what the metabo is for.
I’m hoping to get to the bumpsteer set this weekend. I’m really starting out with a blank canvas as far as details, I really just don’t want to mess anything up and make sure there isn't interference.That's hella camber for the street, dang. You might have to inspect the inner edge of the tires periodically for accelerated wear. Just keep in mind that if you change anything (camber, ride height, etc) the entire alignment changes.
I have to respectfully disagree on "parallel" control arm angles with respect to tie rods. This is not always (maybe even hardly) the case. I recently did a 4-wheel bumpsteer alignment and I can attest personally to this. Getting parallel by just eyeballing it is a good starting point but no way is it accurate with respect to bumpsteer. You will find this out for yourself when you get around to actually doing the procedure. My tip: start with the lower set of control arm holes on the MM K-member.
Oh one more thing…. You mentioned lower control arm holes. I believe MM recommends the lower holes for any street driven cars. So for reference I have started there.That's hella camber for the street, dang. You might have to inspect the inner edge of the tires periodically for accelerated wear. Just keep in mind that if you change anything (camber, ride height, etc) the entire alignment changes.
I have to respectfully disagree on "parallel" control arm angles with respect to tie rods. This is not always (maybe even hardly) the case. I recently did a 4-wheel bumpsteer alignment and I can attest personally to this. Getting parallel by just eyeballing it is a good starting point but no way is it accurate with respect to bumpsteer. You will find this out for yourself when you get around to actually doing the procedure. My tip: start with the lower set of control arm holes on the MM K-member.
Whew! I need to brush up on suspension science and terminology. I think I only understood about 25% of that.This is exactly what I’m building an SLA for my car:
To be able to run less static camber in the front. My setting is considered mild for what I do with the car. You need to run more to alleviate the camber gain issues that plague McPherson strut type suspension.
Not going to argue bumpsteer setting vs control arm angle. You’re right about this. MM advised me to set the rear arms to parallel for better anti squat and roll center values. The front being set parallel is for a good starting point pre-corner weighing the car.
I run the top holes on my k-member because I like to party.
Yea, it almost has two long straights if you include the one after turn 12. I am faster going through turn 15 than I am before I get to turn one. That turn 16 is scary-fun! You go into that turn FLYING.NCM also has that nice long straight away. I was looking forward to it with the GT500 for 3 laps but it got rained out. The next year when I went to use it I had a buddy up by indy that wanted to go and I am pretty much directly between the two so I have been going to indy since. I am hoping to make it down to bowling green for the NMRA in oct but looking forward to indy in august this year to drive the ferrari.