Oil temp gauge still not working

OP
OP
Daryl

Daryl

Well-Known Member
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
2,915
Reaction score
1,389
Location
SoCal
The unit came with bezel I bought from Maximum95 recently when he was parting out his car. It’s an AutoMeter. The other is an AEM air:fuel
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    99.7 KB · Views: 5
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    101.1 KB · Views: 5

ttocs

Post Whore
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
32,663
Reaction score
5,670
Location
Evansville Indiana
looking at the autometer schematics they only show one wire so that should not be it. You showed that the ring terminal was crimped to the insulation, the new one is crimped to the wire correct?
 

weendoggy

Active Member
Joined
May 31, 2019
Messages
640
Reaction score
733
I use Autometer gauges in my Cobra and the Oil Temp. gauge needs to have 12v feed and one to the sender. There will be a third one for light if you want. Testing the gauge is easy, key-on, ground the sender wire while watching the gauge and it should peg. You need to have the gauge wired correctly to test. So, even if you had 12v. key-on power to the gauge you can test by grounding the sender terminal (at the gauge) while watching and it should peg. If the gauge test works, but not from the sender wire (engine) then you have a break between enging and gauge sender wire.
 
OP
OP
Daryl

Daryl

Well-Known Member
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
2,915
Reaction score
1,389
Location
SoCal
looking at the autometer schematics they only show one wire so that should not be it. You showed that the ring terminal was crimped to the insulation, the new one is crimped to the wire correct?
Yes
 
OP
OP
Daryl

Daryl

Well-Known Member
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
2,915
Reaction score
1,389
Location
SoCal
I use Autometer gauges in my Cobra and the Oil Temp. gauge needs to have 12v feed and one to the sender. There will be a third one for light if you want. Testing the gauge is easy, key-on, ground the sender wire while watching the gauge and it should peg. You need to have the gauge wired correctly to test. So, even if you had 12v. key-on power to the gauge you can test by grounding the sender terminal (at the gauge) while watching and it should peg. If the gauge test works, but not from the sender wire (engine) then you have a break between enging and gauge sender wire.
Cool, thank you weendoggy! I have a volt meter but I don’t know how to do any of what you just described. Probably have to run it by my shop. They’ll know how to sort through all that. Cheers and thanks again!
 

ttocs

Post Whore
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
32,663
Reaction score
5,670
Location
Evansville Indiana
Cool, thank you weendoggy! I have a volt meter but I don’t know how to do any of what you just described. Probably have to run it by my shop. They’ll know how to sort through all that. Cheers and thanks again!
1. turn key on and verify that gauge does something/powers up.
2. take the white wire going to the sender and ground it and the gauge should go all the way up.

No meter needed.
 

weendoggy

Active Member
Joined
May 31, 2019
Messages
640
Reaction score
733
1. turn key on and verify that gauge does something/powers up.
2. take the white wire going to the sender and ground it and the gauge should go all the way up.

No meter needed.
Or...use a small wire for jumper, connect to Bat+ circuit (any off the fuse panel will work) and connect the other end to the IGN side of the gauge. Take another wire and connect to the S terminal of the gauge (sender) and touch to ground momentarily. Gauge should peg. You can do this test on or off the car. Do this without any wires on the chassis connected to the gauge. It just verifies the gauge works. Don't even need a key for this test. :)
 

Adfalenski

Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2016
Messages
173
Reaction score
75
Location
Pasquotank county, NC
Is there too much sealant? The case of the sender provides the ground for the sender. Try attaching a wire from the sender case to a good ground and check the gauge. If it works clean off most of the sealant on the fittings and try again.
 
OP
OP
Daryl

Daryl

Well-Known Member
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
2,915
Reaction score
1,389
Location
SoCal
Is there too much sealant? The case of the sender provides the ground for the sender. Try attaching a wire from the sender case to a good ground and check the gauge. If it works clean off most of the sealant on the fittings and try again.
Sealant? There’s the blue thread tape that you’re supposed to use for parts connecting oil. But I don’t recall any sealant. Did I miss something? Please advise… and thanks!
 

ttocs

Post Whore
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
32,663
Reaction score
5,670
Location
Evansville Indiana
As he said it could still be a bad ground connection even though they do not have a seperate ground for the sender. Just try like he said and wrap a piece of wire around the senders body/lower section and then ground that wire and see if it helps.
 

cobrajeff96

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2022
Messages
1,647
Reaction score
1,541
Location
Germany
That sealant probably won't have any negative effect. It's there to fill the troughs of the threads, and the sharp edges or crests of the threads will still make metal/metal contact.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
77,520
Messages
1,504,178
Members
14,985
Latest member
Suprasuavy

Members online

Top