02 V6 Exhaust Leak and rearend slop

[MufflerBearings69]

Well, I see this almost all 94-98 guys but I like the forum so I thought I might ask here anyways-

Just got a 2002 V6 coupe given to me... It is doing quite well commuting (though I see others getting way better MPG so I need to look into that) and it only has a couple issues-

I have an exhaust leak going on that only seems to be really noticeable on cold start up. I know, I should go crawl under under that bugger, but I have been told quite vaguely but several times that there is a common issue with these cars and the leak, so I am hoping to get a hint on where to look to save myself some time. Any ideas? Suggested fixes?

Also, I have an odd problem with something in the driveline. If not completely smooth when letting the clutch up, the car will buck- will jerk back and forth, which originally suggested to me the trans or engine mounts were shot. I checked into them and they are still solid- even went as far as to drive the car with the shifter boot taken out and the trans doesn't move. Control arm bushings in the rear arms look fine, still solid, only lightly cracked from age... Rear shocks are brand new KYBs which helped but not too much. U-joints are solid also- I am fearing the rear itself may be toast. Any common failure points to look at here?

Any other common odd issues to look into would be cool to know... Thanks

 

[atlanticblue98]

the exhaust manifolds on 99-04 tend to crack on the passenger side due to the A/C dripping on them. 94-98 headers or aftermarkets shorties will not crack when the A/C drips on them. ford switched from headers to manifolds in 99, it is very common for them to break. you need a tuner to use the 94-98 headers on an 02 though.

for the bucking, you could take off the diff cover and check the pinion and ring gear. im sure you need the diff fluid changed anyway. it has probably never been changed

 

[MufflerBearings69]

Ahhh I see. It sure sounds like passenger side where the tick comes from.

Any insight on why I need a tuner to use 94-98 headers? Not questioning it, moreso asking what needs changed as I have a Moates piggyback chip laying around that i could (as far as I know) use on this car and not spend more money...

Not to be cheap but why buy a handheld to do what my spare chip will do? lol

 

[atlanticblue98]

Ahhh I see. It sure sounds like passenger side where the tick comes from.

Any insight on why I need a tuner to use 94-98 headers? Not questioning it, moreso asking what needs changed as I have a Moates piggyback chip laying around that i could (as far as I know) use on this car and not spend more money...

Not to be cheap but why buy a handheld to do what my spare chip will do? lol

i believe the 94-98 headers dont have Air Injection, so you you would have to delete the EGR and plug the Air injection tube that would normally go in the manifold. i have heard that 94-98 headers have the O2 sensors on the header while 99-04 is on mid-pipe, but i couldve swore mine were on the midpipe when i changed the sensor. if that is true, those would need plugged too

 

[MufflerBearings69]

Cool so its simple stuff- I can either add the parts and make it work, or I can delete and tune that out... EGR is just a toggle in my software so fi the chip does indeed work I can do that for free too...

now where to find v6 94-98 manifolds. lol

 

[atlanticblue98]

Cool so its simple stuff- I can either add the parts and make it work, or I can delete and tune that out... EGR is just a toggle in my software so fi the chip does indeed work I can do that for free too...

now where to find v6 94-98 manifolds. lol

U-pull N Pay should have some. they have about 4 94-98's

 

[Wayne]

the bucking could be cause from weak springs in the clutch plate or your flywheel may need to be faced also I faced the one in my old ford truck and it made it smooth as glass to take off with vary big difference

 

[MustangChris]

i dono shiz about V6s, but i like your name!


good luck on the 3.8, and im glad to see that we got some guys who knows whats up...

 

[godsrods]

Lift the rear of the car in the air so the rear wheels are off the ground. once you have done that grab a tire and pull on it then push it. If you can feel the tire move in and out the c clips holding your axles in are bad and most likely your spider gears are toast if this is the case. Too many one wheel wonders and high revving winter sliding can also couse this. when both the wheels are spinning at the same speed the spider gears are stationary when there is a difference though they can start spinning very fast this set up is not designed for too much of this it will over heat and start chewing up the gears.

 

[MufflerBearings69]

I hadnt considered the spider gears to be a possible culprit... I have been driving her with no changes since I made this thread (I lost my link to the site!! ARGH!)

As soon as the lift I got for xmas has my 68 Galaxie down off of it I think I will pull the cover and see what the heck is going on. I feel like if it has anything broken in there I rather source a 8.8 and swap it and be done... that way the engine swap I'm *ahem* not going to do *cough* wont break the rear later... lol

I will definitely check the end play on the axles- thats new input to me...

 

[MufflerBearings69]

Also bought a brand new Dorman exhaust manifold off Summit- going to swap that when the lift is free too... Needing to do some seals and stuff and clean the slime from the old leaks off the bottom of this poor thing...