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Engine Specific Tech
96-04 - 2V Specific
349 swap
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<blockquote data-quote="RichV" data-source="post: 1300476" data-attributes="member: 17007"><p>I'll just put in my 0.02 since the term road course was mentioned.</p><p></p><p>I have no idea what 98 you have, GT or V6. If your serious on a road course build take these into consideration.</p><p></p><p>1. Why even contemplate a automatic of any kind? T5/T56</p><p>2. UPR is a waste on open track car. Use MM only, expensive but stuff holds up to the abuse.</p><p>3. Why not just PI your current (if GT) and keep it easy rather than dealing with electronics or rigging it to carbureted?</p><p></p><p>If you have done any open track driving you should know that a lot of power/torque is very hard to control. Not for the novice driver. A stock SN handles and brakes relatively well if you address some basic suspension and chassis items. The engine is really the last thing to upgrade, unless you are adding reliability items like cooling and oiling.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RichV, post: 1300476, member: 17007"] I'll just put in my 0.02 since the term road course was mentioned. I have no idea what 98 you have, GT or V6. If your serious on a road course build take these into consideration. 1. Why even contemplate a automatic of any kind? T5/T56 2. UPR is a waste on open track car. Use MM only, expensive but stuff holds up to the abuse. 3. Why not just PI your current (if GT) and keep it easy rather than dealing with electronics or rigging it to carbureted? If you have done any open track driving you should know that a lot of power/torque is very hard to control. Not for the novice driver. A stock SN handles and brakes relatively well if you address some basic suspension and chassis items. The engine is really the last thing to upgrade, unless you are adding reliability items like cooling and oiling. [/QUOTE]
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96-04 - 2V Specific
349 swap
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