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Engine Specific Tech
94-95 5.0 - Specific
351 or stroker?
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<blockquote data-quote="Mr. OAM" data-source="post: 369924" data-attributes="member: 9816"><p>Is Edelbrock prommoting their heads as 3V? They are not described as such on their site. Perhaps some retailer is calling them that?</p><p></p><p>To make your Clevor you will have Cleveland heads on a Windsor block. Which manifold will you use? The Windsor block has a deck height of 9.500" and the Cleveland came with a 9.206" deck height. A strictly Cleveland intake will not work. Will you be using spacers? Where do you get those? They are available somewhere.</p><p></p><p></p><p>For the hassle of building the specialized Clevor (Additional block machining to alter water passages to accomodate the Cleveland heads) you can more easily build a killer 351W. The head and intake selection for them is great. This would also be a better route for someone new to engine building and you will be able to make just as much power as the Clevor, if not more. You will certainly have a smaller budget. You can also stroke the Windsor as well.</p><p></p><p></p><p>The Cleveland is a very different beast. Best bet to take advantage of the large valves is to stroke it to 377, 393, or 408". This enables the build of a more streetable engine. Guys are getting 480 - 500 streetable HP NA out of these engines, sometimes with the stock 4V heads, reworked of course. Others are getting over 600 HP built for the track, still NA and no nitrous.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Paul is right about the cast crank. If you are building a street engine with 500 HP you will still be ok. If it is a race engine that is going to see a major percentage of it's use at the track then I would go with at least a nodular iron crank. A friend is racing a 1970 Boss Mustang with a 351C he dropped into it (original engine is in the garage) that he launches and shifts at 7,000 RPM and last year went 10.9 in the 1/4 with a stock crank. The only thing he found was that he needed harder crank bearings instead of the typical tri-metal bearings made for the street where any contaminants can dig into the bearing and get out of the way of the crank. On the track these bearings got hammered out of shape.</p><p></p><p>Steve</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mr. OAM, post: 369924, member: 9816"] Is Edelbrock prommoting their heads as 3V? They are not described as such on their site. Perhaps some retailer is calling them that? To make your Clevor you will have Cleveland heads on a Windsor block. Which manifold will you use? The Windsor block has a deck height of 9.500" and the Cleveland came with a 9.206" deck height. A strictly Cleveland intake will not work. Will you be using spacers? Where do you get those? They are available somewhere. For the hassle of building the specialized Clevor (Additional block machining to alter water passages to accomodate the Cleveland heads) you can more easily build a killer 351W. The head and intake selection for them is great. This would also be a better route for someone new to engine building and you will be able to make just as much power as the Clevor, if not more. You will certainly have a smaller budget. You can also stroke the Windsor as well. The Cleveland is a very different beast. Best bet to take advantage of the large valves is to stroke it to 377, 393, or 408". This enables the build of a more streetable engine. Guys are getting 480 - 500 streetable HP NA out of these engines, sometimes with the stock 4V heads, reworked of course. Others are getting over 600 HP built for the track, still NA and no nitrous. Paul is right about the cast crank. If you are building a street engine with 500 HP you will still be ok. If it is a race engine that is going to see a major percentage of it's use at the track then I would go with at least a nodular iron crank. A friend is racing a 1970 Boss Mustang with a 351C he dropped into it (original engine is in the garage) that he launches and shifts at 7,000 RPM and last year went 10.9 in the 1/4 with a stock crank. The only thing he found was that he needed harder crank bearings instead of the typical tri-metal bearings made for the street where any contaminants can dig into the bearing and get out of the way of the crank. On the track these bearings got hammered out of shape. Steve [/QUOTE]
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