Reply to thread

Message: <blockquote data-quote="cobrajeff96" data-source="post: 1570109" data-attributes="member: 29141">That's fine about the testing. You can just pump it to 100psi or more, throw it into a sink full of water and watch for bubbles for about a minute. Bubbles early on are normal because that's just on the surface. But after all the initial bubbles fizzle out, pay attention for any of them that might come from the hose ends.Is it thick rubber power steering hose or PTFE lined SS braid hose?The problem with air in any system is that it can exist just about anywhere and cause the symptoms. As the hydraulic fluid is essentially acting as like a Newton Cradle, the transfer from fluid to an air pocket is pretty much instantaneous and the pump cavitates no matter what. And what really sucks is that there could be an air leak somewhere, but fluid might not leak. The air will just slurp into the system due to the intensity of the flow (on the high side) that it'll carry fluid along with it and there'll never be indication of something wrong other than noise and possibly excess heat.Speaking of which all of my Lares pumps screamed so much all the time that it put excess heat into the system. The cooler I installed into it was hot to the touch after even a short drive, it was insane. You couldn't put your hand on the heat exchanger for more than even a second. Fast forward to the GM type II pump setup, and the cooler is nowhere near hot even after a 30 min WOT slug fest on the autobahn with no cool-down. Most of the time it's just barely warm.Anyways, try to ditch that C-III type of pump if you can. I went through one OEM iron which was actually not bad, but I also went through three re-man'd irons and three Lares aluminums - they all sucked. The irons at least didn't leak. The Lares aluminums.....one imploded spectacularly and the other two leaked after only 1,000 miles and were constantly screaming at 3k rpm and beyond.</blockquote>